Twista4004

These are separate parts? I was convinced that these parts were different names for the same thing

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

2 ends of the same arm. one is in the spindle, one is in the arm.

usoff89

iTrader: (2)

Replaced my strut rod bushings yesturday on my 93. Here's a couple pics. Its a pretty simple process and only take about 15mins a side.

Twista4004

Thank you VERY much! Totally appreciated.

usoff89

iTrader: (2)

I dont know if it would matter or not. But I should add that the old and new bushings had some markings on them. I put the new ones in the same position as the old ones.

My clunk sounds from the front end have almost stopped completely. I'm still getting a small clunk from the driver side. But it is ten times better with the new bushings. Also the car feels very tight in the front end.

I wonder if the sway bar end links could be causing the clunk/pop sound? Only happens when turning almost at full lock (etc. pulling into a parking spot).

LScowboyLS

my money is on rack bushings, tie rod ends or upper control arms

lower ball joints or lower control arms also a possibility

sway bar, possible, but much less common

usoff89

iTrader: (2)

I've done the strut rod bushings, lower ball joints. Still need to do the tie rods, so maybe that will do it. If it doesnt, I know its going to cost a pretty penny for the upper control arms. Whats the going prices for the rack bushings?

Shmee

iTrader: (3)

Well, he said =>end links<= not the bar itself, I'll assume you just missed the "links" in your response.

Assuming that, you are wrong.
Any balljoint style sway bar link, in sheer, has roughly an 30-50k service life interval due to the fact the joint is not opperating within its ideal load bearing parameters. In fact on the numerous cars that use them in a 90° sheer-offset, like the LS400 does, they are the number one culprit to front end clunks and also the cheapest to replace. When looking to buy my 96, every car I looked at and drove, needed new sway bar links... So it is certainly VERY COMMON, albeit not the largest or loudest contributor to the clunks.

While on a 20year old car you probably have a multitude of suspension slop that needs to be addressed, there is no reason to not change the sway bar end links on a regular basis or as routine maintenance. They take about 10-15min/side to replace and cost $20-30 each.

If you want to be sure, search for my coil over install how-to, I posted a video of how to check upper ball joints, but the method is the exact same for the sway bar link ends, tie rod ends and LBJ's; you just don't need as big of a set of pliers with the sway bar links!

LScowboyLS

rack bushings are not expensive, and we need to poll all of the CL members to see which aftermarket upper control arms have proven to be good, it seems for awhile there we were only getting reports of how bad the various aftermarket brands were, but hopefully at least one brand in out there that has proven itself!

I am going to be having to do these myself sometime soon I figure!

LScowboyLS

perhaps you or PD, being the suspension gurus here, have a theory about a strange intermittent clanging noise I get when i go over 70 mph?

the clanging in not a clunk, but almost sounds like a piece of gravel caught in an exhaust heat shield, bouncing around randomly, but plenty loud enough to hear inside the car at 70mph, but sounds like from up front, perhaps passenger wheel

sounds like might be coming from front passenger side but sounds are tricky to pinpoint, and the crazy thing is, it follows no pattern, very intermittent, not in sync with vehicle speed or rpm, and the only commonality is that it happens only over 70mph, but not necessarily exactly at that speed, it might decide to happen at 73 or 77 or whatever. - and many times it won't happen at all for hours at that speed on the Interstate, then start up for no reason

it's not gravel on a heat shield or anything loose on exhaust as far as i can tell, might be the shield thingie around the front disk, but on inspection everything seems tight and fine.

deanshark

I get the same clanging sound you mention and I just thought it was my heat sheild around the front passenger disc b/c mine is a little loose and has been bent in the past. Mine happens around town hitting small bumps. Check that sheild again, maybe yours is contributed to the wind hitting it somehow at speed. Or maybe something is flopping around (when you're going faster) and hitting it which makes the sound. (like a cymbal)

Shmee

iTrader: (3)

Could be the brake rotor shield, but I've also seen more than a few cars that have a cover on undertray that had either a loose bolt or tab(s). Once at a certain speed, it caused enough pressure or buffeting to begin to wiggle and cause odd intermittent sounds with no frequency or pattern. Usually, any time you have a non-repeating/repeatable, frequency-less(harmonic) type of noise, it's not a hard part issue but a soft part issue. Soft part being anything non-structural: shields, covers, panels, etc.

I would hook up a set of chassis ears to the car and try and point-point where the sounds is coming from, then do a little old fashion heal of the hand diagnosis to see if you can't find the culprit.

Exhaust body/tunnel heat shields are also a good place to look, specifically around the fasteners securing them. I've seen a few on cars where years of driving over stuff, rust and abuse from shoddy techs have cause breaks around a mounting point which can cause all sorts of crazy noises. If the broken completely away from the fastener, you'll get a pretty easy to find and consistent rattle. If its just a little flexation break, often this is where you will find the source of irregular noises.

dc893

IDK if I can post ebay links so if its not allowed please delete. I found this on ebay. 1st gen cushions for $100 shipped!! cheapest I've found by $60!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/181140730538?item=181140730538&viewitem=&vxp=mtr
Does anybody know what size socket is needed for the large bolt on a 1st gen? Wanna make sure I have it on hand when my cushion gets here.

dc893

Got my bad cushion replaced and what a difference it does make. No more noise at all from the front end and it tracks 100% better.

LScowboyLS

I can't see spending $115 on a junky Chinese strut bar cushion, when the real Toyota ones are only $30 more with our discount at Sewell Lexus