LS 400 engine rebuild
#1
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LS 400 engine rebuild
I just bought a 93 ls 400 with a 91 parts car..they both run..but have coolant issues.
Without knowing past history,Id like to rebuild the engine.
The 93 has 180k, the parts car, 300k.
Anyone specialize in these engines?
Just use a local machine shop?
Ive built small block and big block chevys,but this will be my first japanese rebuild..any help appreciated.
Thanks
Without knowing past history,Id like to rebuild the engine.
The 93 has 180k, the parts car, 300k.
Anyone specialize in these engines?
Just use a local machine shop?
Ive built small block and big block chevys,but this will be my first japanese rebuild..any help appreciated.
Thanks
#2
It's going to be way cheaper to find a used engine. Rebuilds are are very expensive, and used engines are a dime a dozen since they are so reliable they typically outlast the vehicle due to wrecks, ect. Even with the case of it being just the head gaskets it might be cheaper to toss in a used engine.
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The car is a florida car, great condition, dont really care about the cost.
I want a reliable engine that will last.
I dont have time to mess with a used engine, and its headaches.
Thanks for your reply though.
I want a reliable engine that will last.
I dont have time to mess with a used engine, and its headaches.
Thanks for your reply though.
#4
Either way not many (if ANY) specialize in these engines because quite frankly, due to the reasons I mentioned. That alone would shy me away from opening my wallet so wide (I'm guessing $3000-$5000 for a full rebuild) when they would be essentially learning on your motor. This isn't your small block chevy that every shop sees day in and day out, or even a 2JZ that a someone might actually specialize in. If you're dead set in rebuilding it, I'd call up a reputable supra shop or two and ask for quotes or advise.
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Just rebuild the top end?
Have the engine block decked?
If for some chance, the head gaskets, are bad, whats the chances,the block is still, square and true?
I really like the ls400..a classic.
Thanks.
Have the engine block decked?
If for some chance, the head gaskets, are bad, whats the chances,the block is still, square and true?
I really like the ls400..a classic.
Thanks.
#6
Those are questions that only an experience machinist can answer after the teardown starts. That said, headgaskets are a rare failure on the 1UZ, my bet (hope) is that your issue is something not internal to the engine.
#7
Any automotive machine shop that has the machines should be able to do what you need done. Keep us all posted on the project and where you get the parts. The way they seem to last hopefully you shouldn't need cylinders bored or oversize pistons but who knows, I don't think lexus offers oversize or undersize parts, most auto manufactures don't do the things they did in the past, they expect total unit replacements. But if outfits like Jasper do remans on the 1UZFE's they would have a source for the parts. They just aren't as popular as the old chevy stuff is so aftermarket parts maybe few and far.
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Ill do the work myself.
Remove the motor,dissassemble,send to machine shop,clean it up and reassemble with original pistons, using new rings.
These engines that complicated?
Would be worth $3k for just the experience?
Big motor head here..get a lot of satisfaction out of hearing, a motor I built,run for the first time
Thanks.
Remove the motor,dissassemble,send to machine shop,clean it up and reassemble with original pistons, using new rings.
These engines that complicated?
Would be worth $3k for just the experience?
Big motor head here..get a lot of satisfaction out of hearing, a motor I built,run for the first time
Thanks.
#9
And your right wanting to keep the same engine with the car, I will be doing the same to my high mile LS someday, its on the bottom of my list for now.
Doing the rebuild will be much easier than r an r ing the evaporator or heater core, major interior tear apart is way more complicated, that is if your going to get it all back just like they did in the factory.
Doing the rebuild will be much easier than r an r ing the evaporator or heater core, major interior tear apart is way more complicated, that is if your going to get it all back just like they did in the factory.
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Just because a motor runs, doesnt guarantee it was well cared for.
I change my oil often, and use synthetic lubricants.
Just cant justify $30-$40k,for a new car, with the climate, here in Ohio.
The ls 400 has everything Im looking for in a vehicle.
I have a collection of 70's American cars, but dont drive them during the winter..love big, comfortable,reliable cars.
I change my oil often, and use synthetic lubricants.
Just cant justify $30-$40k,for a new car, with the climate, here in Ohio.
The ls 400 has everything Im looking for in a vehicle.
I have a collection of 70's American cars, but dont drive them during the winter..love big, comfortable,reliable cars.
#11
What sort of coolant issues are you having? Not many people tear into the 1UZ-FE because it is hardly ever required. I understand that you're coming from small block V8's that can always use an overhaul or refresh. That is not the case with the 1UZ-FE. Tearing into a 1UZ if you think that replacing the rings and bearings is a good idea is actually a bad idea. The machine shop can't machine it as well as Toyota did and you can't build it as good as Toyota did. If you insisted on tearing into it I would only use OEM parts, for everything. I wouldn't say the 1UZ is super complicated. I really don't think it is. But, I wouldn't touch one without the factory manual, and follow it to a 'T'. The 1UZ is actually a pretty cool little engine. You know those small blocks that you've worked on, with the 2 bolt mains? The 1UZ has 4 stud mains with cross bolts coming in from the outside of the block. It's built like a freakin tank.
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Havent pressure tested the cars yet,but both leak coolant, quickly,loosing coolant, smoking excessively.
The parts car has the milkshake, might be a cracked block,dosent overheat, but smokes from the exhaust and near the overflow tank.
The parts car has the milkshake, might be a cracked block,dosent overheat, but smokes from the exhaust and near the overflow tank.
#13
Pull the vacuum hoses off the air control valve on the side of the power steering pump, see if any fluid comes out. Are they both definitely smoking steam or oil type smoke?
The milkshake certainly isn't a good thing...
The milkshake certainly isn't a good thing...
#15
The cooling system is probably the weakest link on these engines. I didn't know until I started a timing belt job and realized half of the cooling system components (radiator, hoses, pump, pulleys, ect) are on their last leg which are being replaced now. This is one of the few "bullet proof" type of engines that even though I know it wasn't treated the best by it's former owner, I'm fine with putting some dollars into fixing it up -- as long as there's no milkshake or oil consumption of course.
And the smoking issue with the non-milkshake engine is hopefully the power steering IAC valve as Banshee365 mentioned. The power steering system and engine ECU is another big weak link, tons of threads on that.
And the smoking issue with the non-milkshake engine is hopefully the power steering IAC valve as Banshee365 mentioned. The power steering system and engine ECU is another big weak link, tons of threads on that.
Last edited by djamps; 09-01-16 at 06:53 PM.