fastegg

I'm just psyching myself up to do both a timing belt and starter motor... At 295,000km the 2nd belt is due and the starter is doing the click-click-click thing.. I'm going to be using a complete Toyota timing belt kit and with it is a crank seal. I'd like to change it. Ive watched 2 youtube video's on 1UZ TB but neither showed pulling off the TB pulley. Does anyone know if this is easy/hard to get off ? Do I need a puller or does it just tap off ?....

*** Also, as far as I know the valve clearances have never been checked. Should I also be taking off the valve covers and checking them ? Whats the service intervals ?

** Anyone got any hot tips before I jump in the deep end ?......

jaaa

You will need a "Bolt-Type Wheel Puller Set" to pull the crank pulley off. On installation you just push it back on(paying attention to the get the key positioned correctly!). On the starter replacement, I would be tempted to replace the EGR pipe at the same time I was doing the starter if it hasn't been replaced before. I ended up replacing the egr pipe two months after I did the starter and the same amount of work is required for either(a heck of a lot). Since both of these tasks are totally different, I'd not do these together and do them one at a time. The puller set I bought cost around $15 at Harbor Freight- but doubt you have these down under.
Here is a guide that I used and you can see the puller on step 19 I believe:
http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/engine/timingbelt.html

Stereotype

Sounds like you have it down for the most part. Videos are helpful. As for the timing belt pulley, which one are you referring to? The idler puller or ? If you have never checked the clearance and have the mechanical knowledge to do so, i would check it. Being as it has high mileage. Great excuse to replace the valve cover gasket as well. Recommended is about 60k miles for a check.
valve clearance as per... INTAKE VALVES: Factory specs call for a clearance of .006-.010"
EXHAUST VALVES: Factory specs call for a clearance of .010-.014"

sha4000

iTrader: (1)

I would do the starter first because IMO it's an easier job with less stuff to remove. I removed the throttle body in 1 piece by myself and it is heavy. Would be nice if you had a helper but it can be done alone. As far as the timing belt bag ALL the bolts separately and label them.

Banshee365

I've never had to use a puller on a 1UZ crank pulley. They usually walk right off. The problem is removing the 180 ft-lb crank bolt. You can remove it with the mickey mouse starter with a breaker bar method but you need a way to torque it back on too.

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

no EGR on 98-00 cars so that's not a worry. Starter is relatively simple just labor intensive when compared to some other cars.

Be careful with the setting the timing, make sure the engine is where it's supposed to be before taking the old belt off. Make sure to replace water pump and TB idler/tensioner pulleys, and the tensioner. This is also a good time to check hte serpentine belt tensioner and all pulley bearings.

You'll want either a VERY strong impact or a large breaker bar to get the harmonic balancer bolt out, and then to torque it back on.

Valve clearance isn't on a set schedule, and you won't save any time doing it now so I would leave that off for another time.

aptoslexus

Have plenty of baggies and a marker. Put aside more time than you'll think you'll need. Have a crank pulley puller set available. Understand how you'll remove the crank bolt and how you will torque it back on before you start. Follow the factory manual as some amateur guides out there, while generally very helpful, can trip you up where they vary from the factory.

sha4000

iTrader: (1)

If you haven't seen this Tutotrial check it out. I used it to do my TB/WP and it has pictures. This was the best one I found and I looked at ALL of them.

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums...cement-how_to/

fastegg

Wow... lots of tips from people thanks everyone... um, yes I have a big 1/2" rattle gun for getting the 22mm crank pulley bolt off and on. The guy on the video said if you dont have a rattle gun use a long knuckle bar against the chassis somewhere and hit the starter.... I guess if you didn't have the right tools..... And thanks for the tip about putting all the nuts'n'bolts in plastic bags and marking them, I never would have thought of that.... The video suggested that on the 2nd belt, which mine is, change the crank seal as one comes in the kit.... It didnt say how to get the actual timing belt pulley off, the one behind the serpentine pulley..... does this just tap off or does it need a puller ?
There's a guy over here on ebay selling brand new Taiwanese starters for $250 ($190USD) with a 5 year warranty... Although I don't know if I'm inclined to believe they don't come from China as it doesn't say on the unit where its made..... There is a guy on US ebay selling 1UZ starter rebuild kits with what looks like everything you need including the drive gear for $55USD.... does anybody know anything about these ?
On US ebay there is a timing belt kit with everything including serp belt and its all Toyota parts... Its bloody expensive considering the generic kits are half the price but I'm going with the all Toyota party... helps me sleep at night... Haven't made up my mind about the starter yet....
I emailed 2 shops in the US about intake manifold gaskets but they wont send international... dunno why... If anyone knows a parts shop that does Lexus/Toyota parts and sends international please let me know... I'm kinda stuck on that one....

fastegg

Sha4000... Which tutorial are you talking about ?

fastegg

..PS.. I have all the workshop manuals and even though these are VERY thorough there's nothing about how to get the actual timing belt pulley off ..... And to make things a little bit harder I'm doing it one handed and my back isn't the best..... Forward march !.......

sha4000

iTrader: (1)

Sorry I could have swore I placed the link in my post. Which pulley are you talking about?
http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums...cement-how_to/

aptoslexus

I used that tutorial myself. It has two errors that will hold you back. The biggest error is installing the tensioner before fitting the belt as you will find it impossible to get the belt over the pulleys if you do. The other error is installing the water inlet housing before the cam cover as you'll find it a bear to do with the housing installed first.

Banshee365

You can apply exactly 181 ft/lb with an impact. Maybe it's just me but, do it right or not at all.

fastegg

.. I'm talking about the TB pulley.. the actual pulley on the crank that drives the TB... I have to remove this to replace the crank seal. Does it just tap off the end of the crank or will it be stubborn and need a puller ?......