Mtdave2

working on this now. I realized that I had not done the bump test when i was filling it with coolant!. so, here we go again. lucky for me it is an easy task,

Mtdave2

I installed a new altered thermostat with the bypass plug. There is no blockage water flows great. I tried a few tests.
hell, im am not sure of the results. If there is a request, i left everything hooked up.

fixmiester

Your setup is good, but because on the cross flow design there is no significant reservoir to accumulate water, waiting for the pump to draw it down. Therefore, once the engine is started, the flow is constrained by whatever the hose is delivering, and it can never go above that, which is what you're seeing. Also, the throttle jabs should be very short, never more than a second or two. You are just looking for pump output at idle vs. higher rpm, but the water supply has to be sufficient to supply both conditions (without forcing water into the system). Hope you understand what I'm trying to convey.

Mtdave2

I wonder if I took the other hose off, and stick it in a bucket? I need to positively id if I need to change this pump. I am open for ideas.

Mtdave2

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You know, thinking more about this, the pump DOES have a reservoir of water. the radiator is full, and holds about a gallon of water, the hose is full of water. The pump should empty the radiator should it not? is it not sucking the water in? may be a good test, bucket of water put the intake hose in, and start the car. it should empty the bucket right?

fixmiester

Remember two things: if you do that, the hose can't be kinked, and the opening must remain below the waterline during the test. In your previous test it looked like you had the garden hose tightly taped to the opening in the radiator hose. This caused two things: you were forcing water through the system, so it was not a good baseline during idle. Then when you reved the engine, even if the flow was trying to increase, it couldn't deliver any more than the garden hose was delivering, because it was sucking a vacuum at that point. That's why the throttle jabs have to be short.
Try positioning a large pan of water sitting the same height as the top of the radiator, with the open end of the radiator hose placed well below the waterline, inside the pan. Left the garden hose run into the pan. Then do your test. This way nothing will influence the flow except the pump itself.

Mtdave2

Ok i will try it that way. I am not sure if you can tell, but the garden hose was connected to the top hose, the water hose filled the radiator and motor. so when I kinked the hose, it had all the water in the radiator, and the motor to feed the pump. Either way I will try again. The darn thing looks like it is working, sorta! guess we will find out.

Thanks for the help.

Mtdave2

Ok, well that was a very success test. I think I stumbled on my problem by accident too. I took a pitcher and stuck it down as low as i could, then found a extra hose i had, it was a bit bigger than the thermostat housing, but I just clamped it down to fit. then started the car. check it out.



The pump will suck the water out of the pitcher, and It does increase in volume when revved quickly (i think, see what you guys see).

Mtdave2

So my next move is to go by a bigger bottom hose. I did not even notice how small the hose is until i saw it next to the the 1 3/4 inch hose. if it is too small that would explain all the symptoms, I had a friend say he thought my bottom hose was collapsing and I think he is sorta right. The hose is big enough to supply the pump at speeds under 2k rpm, higher it would starve the pump and i would get no flow at all. no idea if I am correct, but I will find out tomorrow.

fixmiester

I think you did a good test, and the flow shows normal operation. Lower radiator hoses should always have a wire wound design to keep them from collapsing . They should definitely not be smaller than the top hose, and preferably larger. This, together with the air pockets are most likely the primary cause of your problems, but your system may still be marginal at maximum engine load. Might have to climb those hills in a lower gear.

dicer

Welcome to trying to run a radiator sideways. Lexus made them gravity flow for a reason. The radiator is the problem.

Mtdave2

well you may be right, but i chose the cross flow because of fit. I could get more cooling are and it wasnt a custom.

http://www.carsdirect.com/car-repair...-flow-radiator

So, are you trying to help or just show everyone how smart you are?

find me a radiator 24w x 19h x 2.25w that i can make fit.

Mtdave2

Well, if it still gets hot, then I will look again at the radiator set up. too late to drive it up the hill.. tomorrow!