never ending bubbles in coolant
#61
Driver
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Co
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You're making progress, now that you have eliminated the air pockets, but unless you perform the WP flow test I outlined, you will never know for sure if it is at least delivering normal flow, proportional to engine rpm. I can't provide specifics; this is a visual assessment performed at idle, then with throttle jabs, which should increase the flow by a factor of 2 or 3. If that passes, it may simply be a system design that is marginal, and can't handle the heat from full engine output. The air density up there will always be lower, and heat transfer will always be compromised. I know that's not what you want to hear, but it may be.
#62
Driver
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Co
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I installed a new altered thermostat with the bypass plug. There is no blockage water flows great. I tried a few tests.
hell, im am not sure of the results. If there is a request, i left everything hooked up.
hell, im am not sure of the results. If there is a request, i left everything hooked up.
#63
Only one problem
Your setup is good, but because on the cross flow design there is no significant reservoir to accumulate water, waiting for the pump to draw it down. Therefore, once the engine is started, the flow is constrained by whatever the hose is delivering, and it can never go above that, which is what you're seeing. Also, the throttle jabs should be very short, never more than a second or two. You are just looking for pump output at idle vs. higher rpm, but the water supply has to be sufficient to supply both conditions (without forcing water into the system). Hope you understand what I'm trying to convey.
#64
Driver
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Co
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Your setup is good, but because on the cross flow design there is no significant reservoir to accumulate water, waiting for the pump to draw it down. Therefore, once the engine is started, the flow is constrained by whatever the hose is delivering, and it can never go above that, which is what you're seeing. Also, the throttle jabs should be very short, never more than a second or two. You are just looking for pump output at idle vs. higher rpm, but the water supply has to be sufficient to supply both conditions (without forcing water into the system). Hope you understand what I'm trying to convey.
#65
Driver
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Co
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Your setup is good, but because on the cross flow design there is no significant reservoir to accumulate water, waiting for the pump to draw it down. Therefore, once the engine is started, the flow is constrained by whatever the hose is delivering, and it can never go above that, which is what you're seeing. Also, the throttle jabs should be very short, never more than a second or two. You are just looking for pump output at idle vs. higher rpm, but the water supply has to be sufficient to supply both conditions (without forcing water into the system). Hope you understand what I'm trying to convey.
You know, thinking more about this, the pump DOES have a reservoir of water. the radiator is full, and holds about a gallon of water, the hose is full of water. The pump should empty the radiator should it not? is it not sucking the water in? may be a good test, bucket of water put the intake hose in, and start the car. it should empty the bucket right?
#66
Yes, but
Remember two things: if you do that, the hose can't be kinked, and the opening must remain below the waterline during the test. In your previous test it looked like you had the garden hose tightly taped to the opening in the radiator hose. This caused two things: you were forcing water through the system, so it was not a good baseline during idle. Then when you reved the engine, even if the flow was trying to increase, it couldn't deliver any more than the garden hose was delivering, because it was sucking a vacuum at that point. That's why the throttle jabs have to be short.
Try positioning a large pan of water sitting the same height as the top of the radiator, with the open end of the radiator hose placed well below the waterline, inside the pan. Left the garden hose run into the pan. Then do your test. This way nothing will influence the flow except the pump itself.
Try positioning a large pan of water sitting the same height as the top of the radiator, with the open end of the radiator hose placed well below the waterline, inside the pan. Left the garden hose run into the pan. Then do your test. This way nothing will influence the flow except the pump itself.
#67
Driver
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Co
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Remember two things: if you do that, the hose can't be kinked, and the opening must remain below the waterline during the test. In your previous test it looked like you had the garden hose tightly taped to the opening in the radiator hose. This caused two things: you were forcing water through the system, so it was not a good baseline during idle. Then when you reved the engine, even if the flow was trying to increase, it couldn't deliver any more than the garden hose was delivering, because it was sucking a vacuum at that point. That's why the throttle jabs have to be short.
Try positioning a large pan of water sitting the same height as the top of the radiator, with the open end of the radiator hose placed well below the waterline, inside the pan. Left the garden hose run into the pan. Then do your test. This way nothing will influence the flow except the pump itself.
Try positioning a large pan of water sitting the same height as the top of the radiator, with the open end of the radiator hose placed well below the waterline, inside the pan. Left the garden hose run into the pan. Then do your test. This way nothing will influence the flow except the pump itself.
Thanks for the help.
#68
Driver
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Co
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok, well that was a very success test. I think I stumbled on my problem by accident too. I took a pitcher and stuck it down as low as i could, then found a extra hose i had, it was a bit bigger than the thermostat housing, but I just clamped it down to fit. then started the car. check it out.
The pump will suck the water out of the pitcher, and It does increase in volume when revved quickly (i think, see what you guys see).
The pump will suck the water out of the pitcher, and It does increase in volume when revved quickly (i think, see what you guys see).
#69
Driver
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Co
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So my next move is to go by a bigger bottom hose. I did not even notice how small the hose is until i saw it next to the the 1 3/4 inch hose. if it is too small that would explain all the symptoms, I had a friend say he thought my bottom hose was collapsing and I think he is sorta right. The hose is big enough to supply the pump at speeds under 2k rpm, higher it would starve the pump and i would get no flow at all. no idea if I am correct, but I will find out tomorrow.
#70
Good
I think you did a good test, and the flow shows normal operation. Lower radiator hoses should always have a wire wound design to keep them from collapsing . They should definitely not be smaller than the top hose, and preferably larger. This, together with the air pockets are most likely the primary cause of your problems, but your system may still be marginal at maximum engine load. Might have to climb those hills in a lower gear.
#72
Driver
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Co
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
well you may be right, but i chose the cross flow because of fit. I could get more cooling are and it wasnt a custom.
http://www.carsdirect.com/car-repair...-flow-radiator
So, are you trying to help or just show everyone how smart you are?
find me a radiator 24w x 19h x 2.25w that i can make fit.
http://www.carsdirect.com/car-repair...-flow-radiator
So, are you trying to help or just show everyone how smart you are?
find me a radiator 24w x 19h x 2.25w that i can make fit.
Last edited by Mtdave2; 08-26-16 at 03:51 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
LexSurfing
LS - 1st and 2nd Gen (1990-2000)
4
08-01-12 07:14 PM