ViCT420

I have a 1996 Lexus LS400. It has 230,000 miles on it. I've had it just over a year and it has always run great. I just recently replaced the starter before I had my current issues. After the starter install, the car was fine for 3 days. Then a week ago, while driving, it briefly started to sputter and died within a few seconds. Got it home and first double checked all my connections from when I installed the starter. Next I checked for fuel issues... when trying to start the car I could here the fuel pump start to hum and then stop shortly after turning the key off. Then I broke loose the fuel fitting just before the drivers side fuel injectors and got loads of fuel when trying to start the car. So my assumption is the pump and both fuel filters are fine. A month ago I replaced the spark plugs but wanted to check for spark anyway. I used a tester for this and got good spark on all but 1 plug. To verify it was the plug and not the wire, I took the wire from the suspect plug and placed it on the tester but to a different plug and got no spark. So I figured the wire was bad but wanted to verify. So I took the suspect wire and plugged it into a different spot on the distributor cap and got a good spark. I also tried taking a wire that I got a spark from before and plugged it into the spot where the other wire had been that didn't get a spark and of course I didn't get a spark. So now it appeared that I had an issue with the distributor cap and or rotor (keep in mind I'm not a seasoned mechanic. Just recently self-teaching situations other than oil changes). So, to be safe, I replaced both rotors and distributor caps. Same issue and car still won't start. About "here" is where my knowledge ends and I started hitting forums for answers. I pulled the ECU and didn't see any signs of leaking capacitors. I've seen some posts about maybe having an issue with timing. I don't really know anything about timing... can the timing just jump out of place while driving? The belt doesn't show any bad signs of wear, cracking, etc. If it's a sensor issue or something, I don't even know where to start troubleshooting that. I should mention that both rotors did have about a 3" crack on them, but like I said, I did replace them. Also, sometimes while trying to start the car, there is a little knocking sound, but not always. Sometimes the engine gets a lot closer to turning over than others. It's not real consistent. Any help would be appreciated

RA40

iTrader: (6)

Any error codes?

ViCT420

I'm not sure. I don't have the device to check for codes and have been too stubborn to tow it to mechanic to have that checked. I kept thinking it had to be something simple, but apparently not. Is there anything you think I need to look at before I go buy a code checker?

plexus914

Just change all capacitors (ECU/ECM), they have worked for more than 20 years by now.

copy and paste (from Wikipedia):
"All electrolytic capacitors with non-solid electrolyte age over time,
due to evaporation of the electrolyte. The capacitance usually decreases and the equivalent series resistance (ESR)
usually increases. The normal lifespan of a non-solid electrolytic capacitor of consumer quality, typically rated
at 2000 h/85 °C and operating at 40 °C, is roughly 6 years. It can be more than 10 years for a 1000 h/105 °C capacitor
operating at 40 °C. Electrolytic capacitors that operate at a lower temperature can have a considerably longer lifespan."

dicer

There are two separate igniton systems, and next do the injectors get a signal?

ViCT420

I'll be ordering the capacitors since it seems that even if they aren't the problem now, they eventually will be. As far as the injectors, how do I check that they are getting a signal? I have a good volt meter, but not sure what I should be looking for. Does anyone think the timing has anything to do with this (hopefully not)? And thanks for the replies!!!

dicer

Here is one place to get them.

http://www.autozone.com/test-scan-an...et/948078_0_0/

dicer

I agree. I've seen a lot of posts saying that.
If the starter is turning the engine then THE ENGINE IS TURNING OVER.
If its doing the above and does not start, then it either DOES NOT START, or DOES NOT FIRE.
If the starter is running and nothing is happening to the engine, then IT IS NOT TURNING OVER.
It would be nice if every one could get the simplest of the basics correct.

ViCT420

My apologies for the confusion. As I stated in my first post, I'm just learning. Thanks for setting me straight.

So the problem is that the car "won't start". It is "turning over" though.

ViCT420

Alright, caps are ordered and I'll be grabbing the test kit for the ejectors in a bit. Anyone have anything else they think I should look for while I wait the couple days it'll take the caps to arrive?