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Trouble removing lower manifold to replace starter
Hello,
The car is a 95 LS400
i am about to reach the starter to replace it. The lower manifold is ready to be removed but something is blocking the way. I have attached 2 pictures. It seems that it is the rear fuel pipe. Do I need to remove that bolt? I have been trying for 30 minutes and i can't make it turn.
Can anyone share how to remove that pipe that is blocking the removal of the lower manifold?
Heat valve is on driver side? Must be a gen 2 or newer?
I don't know for sure but looks like remove the hose then the bolt holding the bracket and maybe it will pull outa the way. Its not the year car I'm used to.
And why did you not post the year of the car? That is the single most important part of any question that is posted here.
I've done this plenty of times on my 97. You don't have to remove that fuel line bracket yet but you will eventually have to along with the PITA EGR system to get the starter out. Unbolt the lower manifold and you should be able to take it out. Lift the front (timingbelt side) first and then the back (firewall side) and pull forward and out. It could be tough at first you just have to wiggle it. Just double check though you should be able to see everything that needs to be unbolted before removing lower manifold.
I've done this plenty of times on my 97. You don't have to remove that fuel line bracket yet but you will eventually have to along with the PITA EGR system to get the starter out. Unbolt the lower manifold and you should be able to take it out. Lift the front (timingbelt side) first and then the back (firewall side) and pull forward and out. It could be tough at first you just have to wiggle it. Just double check though you should be able to see everything that needs to be unbolted before removing lower manifold.
I have tried to wiggle it... the black support piece with the bolt on the fuel line is blocking the lower manifold in the back. I do not want to break anything.
The manifold is fully unbolted - maybe i should try harder
I finally got it out with the help of a friend. We had to bent the black piece a little. Now the starter, wow, these 2 bolts seems impossible to reach!
Dicer, and of what I read on forums and what i see on the car, the worst is yet to come!
Pulling off the water bridge is not fun. You'll have to get the wiring out of the way first though. The housing for the wiring splits in half(took me a while to figure that out). I'd replace the egr pipe while you are taking out the water bridge. I didn't, and had to go back in a few months later to replace it. You are doing 99% of the work to replace the egr pipe, so just spend an extra $100 and do both at the same time.
Pulling off the water bridge is not fun. You'll have to get the wiring out of the way first though. The housing for the wiring splits in half(took me a while to figure that out). I'd replace the egr pipe while you are taking out the water bridge. I didn't, and had to go back in a few months later to replace it. You are doing 99% of the work to replace the egr pipe, so just spend an extra $100 and do both at the same time.
I ll think about it thanks!
Question: Below the paper towels in the pipes there is gas almost to the top. Is this a problem? Should i pump it out or leave it there? A neighbor who is helping me told me he wants to remove the gas because he thinks it could blow up when it all rebuilt. I do not know what to think about that.
Removing the egr piping from the back of the coolant bridge is literally half of the job.
I would try and recruit a girl or boy to help with very small hands
Just read your starter thread. Only comment I would make is to just leave fuel rail intact on the intake as you take it out. It's a tight fit, but it will come out(might have to bend the upper egr pipe back a bit). Will save a lot of irritation trying to rebuild the injectors.
Just read your starter thread. Only comment I would make is to just leave fuel rail intact on the intake as you take it out. It's a tight fit, but it will come out(might have to bend the upper egr pipe back a bit). Will save a lot of irritation trying to rebuild the injectors.
The seals and grommets were all rock hard , took all of 10 minutes and $16 to rebuild them. This is the least of any concern when changing the starter.
Have you ever heard of anyone complaining about how expensive or difficult it was to rebuild injector seals and grommets?
Odd how that is the focus of your post....Yet you recommend bending the EGR pipe which is known to be very brittle.
05-30-16, 11:55 AM
Trouble removing lower manifold to replace starter
