EazyRice1

What I'm talking about is engine restorers. Do they actually work? I found one in the picture at Walmart. Any input would be great. Also I need to replace my spark plugs on my 95 with almost 123k miles on it. Should I replace the wires, rotors and caps?

Stroock639

these are really all just snake oil.. i mean think about it, billions of dollars went into developing this car, some $19.99 can of magic spray from walmart isn't gonna miraculously restore the engine and give you a bunch of horsepower back.

also no manufacturers ever recommend adding this stuff, and assuming its always had regular oil changes and been well maintained i'm sure it's hardly lost any power. considering these engines regularly exceed 300,000 and sometimes even 400,000 miles i wouldn't be too worried. hell there's currently one out there with like 940,000 miles and people who drive it still say it makes good power.

something like seafoam will clean out a bit of carbon but unless it's severely gunked up with carbon you really won't notice a huge difference from that either. i wouldn't waste too much money on these things.

python

iTrader: (4)

anything thats been on the shelves for as long as that product has..does its job. pay no attention to the previous reply.
heres just one forum link for those who have used it: http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/engi...ork-71649.html
now i will ask this...what are u hoping to achieve with it? are u adding it to a Ls 400? if so i would advise against it. that product is designed to help repair cylinder walls that have been scored in an engine that has lost some power due to lost compression because of this. i have had many..and i mean many mechanics swear by this stuff..those who have used a borescope and documented the results....mostly older engines from the 70's in camaros..mustangs..etc.

KA8

iTrader: (1)

I've heard it work as long as you keep using it. You really shouldn't need it on LS400's. Mine is at 265K miles and just passed crazy CA smog easily. Smog tech was amazed. Just keep it maintained and it will keep going.

RA40

iTrader: (6)

What symptoms are present that this would be a consideration? From there we can make suggestions. Many of the discussions to have the engine running optimally given the wear is parts maintenance. Some very simple replacements can bring obvious changes.

EazyRice1

I was just wondering. I wasn't going to use it. Thanks.

EazyRice1

Thanks to all replies. You guys are awesome! (:

spuds

Well it worked for me.1992 chevy S-10,used a quart of oil about every 700 miles.After using Restore in 2 oil changes it didnt need any oil between 3-4000 mile oil changes.Say what you will,stopped my oil burning.

Scraape

I'd rather run a quart of ATF in the crankcase than this stuff lol

spuds

Only ran it twice,never burned oil again and flew thru smog checks.Being a hater on something you havent used,whatever.

Like seafoam,its a product in a can that actually works.Or Stabil.Or spray MAF cleaner.

Or De-oxit to clean electrical connectors.Can make bulky switches work as new again.Crackling radio *****,wonder worker.Bulky mouse,just sprayed mine,its aces again.Really shines on potentiometers and slide switches and plug in connectors.
Follow it up with a slathering of
https://www.lubriplate.com/Products/...Lubricant.html
and kiss electrical problems goodbye.
Yup,I love SOLUTIONS in a can.

http://caig.com/

Scraape

i have used it, but to each their own!

spuds

What did you expect it to do that it didnt? I expected it to fill in cylinder wall imperfections related to oil burning.Dont know if it did that,or coated rings,or released sticking rings,but it did do something that FIXED my oil usage,its the only thing I did to vehicle.

JetCat

Hey guys .... my first post here ... I just joined today -- -- -- --

I have had great results using either of two products: Seafoam and a much lesser known product, Auto-RX. I was not trying to solve an oil burning situation ... I just wanted to clean things internally, thus improve overall operation and life span of the engine .. .. ..

Seafoam: I have used a full can ( and sometimes only 1/2 can ) in each tankful of gas for years. Yes .... with every fill-up ... for years. The engine runs fantastic. I finally got around to taking my throttle body off to clean it and found that I did not need to ... it was amazing. Yes ... there was some material to be cleaned, but it looked more like a car with maybe 15,000 miles ... not the 115,000 miles I had on that car.

Auto-RX : I use this to clean the inside of the engine ... mostly the rings. It freaking works, is all I can say. You can feel it in the seat of your pants. I get the feeling this product seems to have enhanced lubricating properties, however they do not make claims along those lines .... this is just my impression having treated 4 different cars with it over the last 5 years. The purpose of Auto-RX is to remove engine sludge. It takes a process of time for AutoRX to work .... but I have found this to be an excellent product. I might add, it is not cheap, so I leave it in the engine for longer than they say to ... I will be making a YouTube about this in the days ahead ....

So, my friend ..... your concern is too much oil consumption ? In my mind, you have some very dirty rings ... ( and I would bet you probably also have a sludged engine to one degree or another ) ... therefore, may I kindly suggest to run some Auto-RX for at least 5,000 miles (as a first initial treatment plan) . If your oil gets really black along the way, change the oil filter, and top-off the oil level. Or if money is not that much of an object, change the oil / filter and start over ... the idea being to go at least 5,000 miles with a good dose of Auto-RX in the oil. By the way, they want you to use conventional oil (not synthetic) while you are treating with this product .. .. ..

If you try this, I hope you might come back here and tell us how it went and what your experience was ....

https://www.auto-rx.com

in case anyone is wondering ... no, I do - not - have any affiliation with either product mentioned .... I am just another Lexus owner interested in ways to fix things myself and save a ton of money whenever possible ... especially when it comes to owning an LS400, or similar model .....

Oh ... EazyRice1 ... you also asked about doing your spark plugs? heck yeah ... if you have 123,000 on your car, I sure would ... and the wires ... and the distributor caps and rotors ... and I would use the factory parts in this case, even though they cost a lot . That's just me .... but think about it .. .. .. we know the factory original ignition parts did pretty good to have lasted this long, assuming they are still original from the manufacture of your car ... soooooooo ... just sayin' : )

I mention doing this on your car, cuz I had a left bank coil wire blow-up on me one time while I was far from home ( it had shorted-out cuz unknown to me, it had been rubbing on the engine block and finally wore down through to the inside of the coil wire itself ) . I lost the ignition on 1/2 the engine. I drove home on it anyway, cuz at the time I was not able to afford to be towed (175 miles to get home). This failure caused many other problems by the time I did get back home. So might as well avoid problems ... if it was me, I would be doing all the ignition wires, plugs, etc. etc. ... it is just good common sense : )

Not sure this helps .... but hope so.

spuds

In my case I owned truck from about 1 year old (we cosigned a loan and got us a truck....) had no drivability issues and was well maintained,super clean,ran excellent (like all my cars),just got tired of pouring in oil.Ran excellent after,and fixed oil issue.Later gave truck to nephew who trashed/destroyed it quickly and to pic a part it went.
Edit-Recently had a sticking lifter in my 116,000 approx. mile 1967 Jeepster oddfire V6.Seafoam in oil,and that issue is history,and that engine is also very clean,in and out.I know,recently did the timing chain and pan and valve cover gaskets,also it sure looks like I was the first to ever open up the engine.
I dont do sludge

python

iTrader: (4)

auto rx is for cylinder soak,sludge removal..has nothing to do with compression restoring.