LexFlexTex

Well I finally got these wheels fitted properly. If anyone was wondering what an LS looks like with GS350 F sport wheels here it is. 10mm spacer up front, 20mm in the rear. Install of the extended studs in the rear went fine, however I had to use the h&r studs instead of the ARP. The ARP's were 5mm longer, for an overall 25mm, than stock and couldn't be installed without removing the hub. Really happy with how the car turned out however I discovered some problems that need to be addressed, besides the slight rubbing up front on turns. My passenger rear wheel has a good amount of play. To the point where it feels fairly loose while driving. Also it seems like the alternator is going out, rack & pinion leaks into the boots, and the belts could use a change. When I change the bearing should I do the hub as well? or will the old hub be ok to use?


I decided with all the money i'm spending on the car I might as well refresh the entire suspension(sub the coilovers I just put on) to ensure the car is in correct working order, and to get as close as possible to day 1 smoothness. Have a good list so far but I'll need help with what bushings to replace, as i'm not too educated on those.

So far my list is:
146k miles

-Front Upper Control Arms
-Front Lower control Arms, can I just replace the part with the ball joint?
-Steering knuckle, current one is rusty new one needed?
-Rear stabilizer links (current ones are all chewed and shot)
-Motor and Transmission Mounts...part numbers?
-Steering gear (rack & pinion) most likely wont be going oem on this one :/
-Front Tie rods
-Belts (all but timing)
-Fluid Refresh

Appreciate the help.

alien1974

dont forget the front wish bone and strut bar bushes

timmy0tool

iTrader: (7)

looks good man, glad you got the wheels sorted. i knew there would be some headache with longer studs due to clearance but glad you worked around it. as for your rear suspension, it's probably a bushing that needs to be replaced, which is very common. it don't think it's the wheel bearing although if it is, the hub is ok to be reused.

some threads on the rear bushings:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...ment-gen1.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...05-bushes.html

alternator is common with a power steering leak as the reservoir sits right above it. if it leaks for too long it will deplete the life of the alt. power steering rack simply needs to be rebuilt or replaced with a new one.

upper control arms should be replaced as a whole (many threads on aftermarket replacements, if OEM is too expensive for you).
lower control arms you simply need to replace the lower ball joint itself which is easier.
most likely the knuckle you have has surface rust and should not really be replaced unless it's been damaged.
rear sway bar links should be replaced if leaking or torn as you said.
motor and trans mounts get from the dealer which do go out at your mileage. i would do the trans mount first and see if all the drivetrain vibes go away in which case 70-80% does. motor mounts are harder to replace.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...placement.html

if your rear bushings are shot, i would venture a guess that your front bushing are shot too. the strut rod bushing is the most common front suspension bush that wears, contributing to poor driving feedback, clunks, and bad alignment.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...400-clunk.html

with that drop on coilovers, and low profile wheels, i would certainly take care of the suspension first to get it all nice and tight as you are putting more stress on the individual components.

LexFlexTex

Thanks for the help Timmy! Here is my official list of suspension/bushing items I plan to order with part numbers.

Plan to just order the entire part vs replacing bushings on some as it will save on the labor end and reduce risk of improper placement of bushings. Also a lot of the metal is rusted anyhow, might as well do it right. Prices are from oem supplier in Japan. cost of shipping to florida is being calculated by them but id say no more than $250.

--Get your LS400 to ride like Brand New Kit---

-Front Upper Control Arms: 4861059015, 4863059015
$340

-Rear Stabilizer Links: 4883022041 x 2
$60

-Rear upper Control Arms: R 4877059015, L 48790590015
$240

-Front Lower Ball Joints: L 4334059045, R4333059045
$140

-Front Stabilizer Links: L4881050011, R4882050011
$80

-Front Stabilizer Bar Bushing 1: 4881550151 x 2
$26

-Front Strut Bar Assembly: L 4867040011, R 4866040021
$190

-Front Lower Control Arm: R 4806850020, L 4806950020
$260

-Rear Strut Rods: 4878050021 x 2
$160

-Rear Lower Control Arms: 4873050021 x 2
$90

-Rear Rod (looks to be the tie rod): 4871050050 x 2
$100

-Rear Stabilizer Bushing: 4881550160
$18

-Transmission Mounts: 1237150060
$40

-Motor Mounts: 1236150101
$120 (not included in tally as might not be needed.)

-Driveshaft Flex Coupler: 3751130020
$115


Exact total from the supplier was $1893 not including shipping

Now it's time to determine whether its worth it to spend ~$2,600 for labor and parts to restore the ride of the car. I figured if I want to keep it for another 5 years it's a good idea. I do plan on keeping the car for the rest of my life(even though i'll be getting other cars), keep her garage kept just to preserve it. With that said it's hard to justify spending close to half of what I got the car for on it haha. Would be very interesting to see how well it rides though after the installs.

Boredsoim1

Sorry to dig up this old thread, but I'm planning to do the same with my ls and wanted to know if you feel it was worth it?

4litre

iTrader: (1)

As long as you feel it's worth it. Never worry what other's think.