Time To Let It Go??
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Time To Let It Go??
Having bought a LS400 a few years back to drive on the weekend and when I have passengers, it appears to be getting close to repair time. I have no issue with repairs, but wowzers!! It appears to be adding up real quick. 1997 LS400 w/ mileage of 187,000. I kept up oil changes religiously and any small issues that has ever presented itself. Latest was new tires & leak repairs which means nothing of course.
I just paid $900 for the leaks (valve cover, cam seals(?), transmission plus gasket & filter service).
The rack & pinion is starting to leak, but they say not bad enough for immediate repair. Projecting about $900 to repair.
Brakes are starting to wear, shop wants 1200 for front & rear (together) with all new parts including calipers. Sounds ridiculous to me but I'm used to doing those jobs myself.
Timing belt time is coming and got a quote for $1200 that will include new caps & rotors, idler pulley, water pump, plus antifreeze flush.
Starter is starting to act up with the random no crank (relay is good/clicking), but when it does crank it cranks normal (no dragging) and fires up fast.
This total comes in at over $4000 and doesn't include the starter repair which I didn't get a quote on. This was all from the same shop keep in mind. They do good work so I have trusted them so far. I'm hearing some minor noise on rough roads leading me to think it's also time for some suspension components to be dealt with. The car rides smooth, but firm so I don't think the struts are gone. Maybe bushings, ball joints or something. Idk. But at this point, I'm contemplating is the car worth putting this sort of money into. I have some decent amount of tools and decent repair skills though I do feel a bit intimidated by the talk of how intense some of the repair procedures on this car are.
I'm starting to feel sick to my stomach to think of the money to be spent, but also to get rid of a nice car. Any insight?
I just paid $900 for the leaks (valve cover, cam seals(?), transmission plus gasket & filter service).
The rack & pinion is starting to leak, but they say not bad enough for immediate repair. Projecting about $900 to repair.
Brakes are starting to wear, shop wants 1200 for front & rear (together) with all new parts including calipers. Sounds ridiculous to me but I'm used to doing those jobs myself.
Timing belt time is coming and got a quote for $1200 that will include new caps & rotors, idler pulley, water pump, plus antifreeze flush.
Starter is starting to act up with the random no crank (relay is good/clicking), but when it does crank it cranks normal (no dragging) and fires up fast.
This total comes in at over $4000 and doesn't include the starter repair which I didn't get a quote on. This was all from the same shop keep in mind. They do good work so I have trusted them so far. I'm hearing some minor noise on rough roads leading me to think it's also time for some suspension components to be dealt with. The car rides smooth, but firm so I don't think the struts are gone. Maybe bushings, ball joints or something. Idk. But at this point, I'm contemplating is the car worth putting this sort of money into. I have some decent amount of tools and decent repair skills though I do feel a bit intimidated by the talk of how intense some of the repair procedures on this car are.
I'm starting to feel sick to my stomach to think of the money to be spent, but also to get rid of a nice car. Any insight?
Last edited by Diwill05; 12-14-15 at 10:35 AM.
#2
I guess if you have a nice airconditioned garage, and lots of spare time you could tackle it as a here and there project. It would be best to do the starter and time belt at the same time. The parts for that will be about $350 or so. You could probably do the total brake job with calipers for under 300.
Rack pinion and pump with hoses maybe 500. and they weren't going to address the pump. So 1150. or so for a DIY. If the body and paint is in top condition and interior is super nice, its worth doing it as a DIY. Maybe you could find a Lexus tech that wants to moon light to help do the timing belt, like just the more difficult stuff.
Rack pinion and pump with hoses maybe 500. and they weren't going to address the pump. So 1150. or so for a DIY. If the body and paint is in top condition and interior is super nice, its worth doing it as a DIY. Maybe you could find a Lexus tech that wants to moon light to help do the timing belt, like just the more difficult stuff.
#3
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Garage... don't have unfortunately. Spare time.... currently working 50-60hrs a week so that's kind of limited as well.
The starter & timing belt both require the same parts removal to get to? If so, that leaves a bit of suspicion on the shop as you'd think since they are aware of the both issues that they would pose simultaneous repair to help on labor. Yeah.... long shot with a shop, but that's what a decent mechanic would do IMO.
But you're right. I've been playing this out in my head. The body & paint are decent. Wash & wax and it shines good.. The interior is okay. Normal cracks in the leather's top coating that I was planning to get a leather repair kit for. Only one small tear that I've seen that actually needs a patch. Everything works though.. Over time the repairs stretched out may not seem so bad. Could sell it off for a couple of grand and grab another with less miles, but could wind up with the same repairs eventually. Tough call here.
The starter & timing belt both require the same parts removal to get to? If so, that leaves a bit of suspicion on the shop as you'd think since they are aware of the both issues that they would pose simultaneous repair to help on labor. Yeah.... long shot with a shop, but that's what a decent mechanic would do IMO.
But you're right. I've been playing this out in my head. The body & paint are decent. Wash & wax and it shines good.. The interior is okay. Normal cracks in the leather's top coating that I was planning to get a leather repair kit for. Only one small tear that I've seen that actually needs a patch. Everything works though.. Over time the repairs stretched out may not seem so bad. Could sell it off for a couple of grand and grab another with less miles, but could wind up with the same repairs eventually. Tough call here.
#4
i understand your predicament. it all depends on the goal of the car for yourself. if you invest that much time/money into it, plan to keep it for at least another 5-6 years to make it worth it. it is good that you are weighing your options now.
ask yourself: do i need this car? if so, do i need it running at it's best (take care of all things), or simply running at the bare minimum (timing belt only, let the rest fall apart), or a nice compromise of both?
ask yourself: do i need this car? if so, do i need it running at it's best (take care of all things), or simply running at the bare minimum (timing belt only, let the rest fall apart), or a nice compromise of both?
#5
Does the car stop? I find it difficult to believe that the car would need new calipers all around. Changing out the pads is dirt cheap if you do it yourself. I think the shop is just upselling you on the brake job.
The other stuff is considerable, however. I think I would look around for one in better shape. One where you wouldn't be asking if you should repair it; you would just do it.
The other stuff is considerable, however. I think I would look around for one in better shape. One where you wouldn't be asking if you should repair it; you would just do it.
#6
Your right, if you get rid of it, and look for another, unless its a 98 to 2000 with super low miles you could end up needing the exact same work done. But that newer low miles one is going to cost more.
I plan on putting $ into the older stuff, I figure a new car would be a 200 plus to 400 a month deal. The only thing I don't like about the older ones is parts are sometimes a problem to get. Soon it will be to the point of having to remanufacture certain parts that are impossible to find.
I plan on putting $ into the older stuff, I figure a new car would be a 200 plus to 400 a month deal. The only thing I don't like about the older ones is parts are sometimes a problem to get. Soon it will be to the point of having to remanufacture certain parts that are impossible to find.
#7
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
i understand your predicament. it all depends on the goal of the car for yourself. if you invest that much time/money into it, plan to keep it for at least another 5-6 years to make it worth it. it is good that you are weighing your options now.
ask yourself: do i need this car? if so, do i need it running at it's best (take care of all things), or simply running at the bare minimum (timing belt only, let the rest fall apart), or a nice compromise of both?
ask yourself: do i need this car? if so, do i need it running at it's best (take care of all things), or simply running at the bare minimum (timing belt only, let the rest fall apart), or a nice compromise of both?
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#8
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Does the car stop? I find it difficult to believe that the car would need new calipers all around. Changing out the pads is dirt cheap if you do it yourself. I think the shop is just upselling you on the brake job.
The other stuff is considerable, however. I think I would look around for one in better shape. One where you wouldn't be asking if you should repair it; you would just do it.
The other stuff is considerable, however. I think I would look around for one in better shape. One where you wouldn't be asking if you should repair it; you would just do it.
#9
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Your right, if you get rid of it, and look for another, unless its a 98 to 2000 with super low miles you could end up needing the exact same work done. But that newer low miles one is going to cost more.
I plan on putting $ into the older stuff, I figure a new car would be a 200 plus to 400 a month deal. The only thing I don't like about the older ones is parts are sometimes a problem to get. Soon it will be to the point of having to remanufacture certain parts that are impossible to find.
I plan on putting $ into the older stuff, I figure a new car would be a 200 plus to 400 a month deal. The only thing I don't like about the older ones is parts are sometimes a problem to get. Soon it will be to the point of having to remanufacture certain parts that are impossible to find.
I've already had the computer repaired due to leaking caps so that's out of the way. I imagine the same will have to be done on the next. Only good thing is if I spring for the timing belt it will take me forever to reach the next interval. It took me over 7-8 years to put a little over 70k on my last vehicle but I have maintained it well. I'll have to do some deep thinking on this one.
Last edited by Diwill05; 12-14-15 at 06:01 PM.
#11
OK, this is my own experience. Others may disagree with my approach to repairs but my LS400's are not in pristine cosmetic shape, but mechanically they are faultless. They were really cheap 6 years ago and have remained cheap. Paint/clearcoat has seen better days, leather is drying out and cracking. And my wife doesn't like them as much as the Scion xB.
is the car clean? How is the leather, body and paint?
The garage doesn't seem trustworthy IMO.
New Calipers? No way you need em unless your car is rusted to hell. All three of my LS400's were minimally maintained northern cars and the calipers are fine.
Buy your own parts. Brembo blanks and come akebono pads shouldn't cost more than $300 in parts. This is an easy DIY job. If DIY is not feasible, find a shop that will charge fairly.
If the car is steering tight and the PS level is good, your rack is fine. Don't replace it. Both my 95 and 2000 seep a tiny bit of fluid. Common issue. I'm not replacing them unless the problem gets bad. Both cars steer tight. A lot of times the PS pump is leaking/seeping and will make the rack seem as if its leaking. Its probably fine.
Timing belt and water pump? When was it last replaced? If good parts were put in, they can last a very long time. My 00 had original timing belt and water pump changed 3 years ago at 213k. Water pump was fine, idler's bearings were almost like new and the belt only had cracks on the smooth part of the belt but the teeth were perfect. My 95's previous owner was taken by his dealer and they only replaced the timing belt @111k in oct 2009. My 95 has 172k and is 21 years old. Original water pump with no leaks. Maybe I'm just lucky.
Now the the starter... my 95 needed the contacts replaced about 3 years ago around 150k. A mechanic friend and I tackled it over a weekend. Most indy shops here in GA will take care of it for 700-900.
Since its a spare car that is driven occasionally, find a good shop and ask them if they can do a labor discount since you are not in a rush. I found a tech who does side work at his house for $40 an hour book time. Buy your own parts online. Huge savings there. I buy the best Japanese-made parts (Aisin, Denso, NGK, Yazaki, Sumitomo, NSK) for less than chinese stuff auto zone sells.
Good luck! Ask us questions and search. This forum has saved me so much time and money! Billy Powell has a ton of ls400 experience and he's happy to share!
is the car clean? How is the leather, body and paint?
The garage doesn't seem trustworthy IMO.
New Calipers? No way you need em unless your car is rusted to hell. All three of my LS400's were minimally maintained northern cars and the calipers are fine.
Buy your own parts. Brembo blanks and come akebono pads shouldn't cost more than $300 in parts. This is an easy DIY job. If DIY is not feasible, find a shop that will charge fairly.
If the car is steering tight and the PS level is good, your rack is fine. Don't replace it. Both my 95 and 2000 seep a tiny bit of fluid. Common issue. I'm not replacing them unless the problem gets bad. Both cars steer tight. A lot of times the PS pump is leaking/seeping and will make the rack seem as if its leaking. Its probably fine.
Timing belt and water pump? When was it last replaced? If good parts were put in, they can last a very long time. My 00 had original timing belt and water pump changed 3 years ago at 213k. Water pump was fine, idler's bearings were almost like new and the belt only had cracks on the smooth part of the belt but the teeth were perfect. My 95's previous owner was taken by his dealer and they only replaced the timing belt @111k in oct 2009. My 95 has 172k and is 21 years old. Original water pump with no leaks. Maybe I'm just lucky.
Now the the starter... my 95 needed the contacts replaced about 3 years ago around 150k. A mechanic friend and I tackled it over a weekend. Most indy shops here in GA will take care of it for 700-900.
Since its a spare car that is driven occasionally, find a good shop and ask them if they can do a labor discount since you are not in a rush. I found a tech who does side work at his house for $40 an hour book time. Buy your own parts online. Huge savings there. I buy the best Japanese-made parts (Aisin, Denso, NGK, Yazaki, Sumitomo, NSK) for less than chinese stuff auto zone sells.
Good luck! Ask us questions and search. This forum has saved me so much time and money! Billy Powell has a ton of ls400 experience and he's happy to share!
#12
Have to ask yourself the question... if I don't drive this, what would I drive, and what would it cost me?
There are always trade offs...
Do you still enjoy the car and want to keep it? Does it meet your needs, or if do the repairs/maintenance will you be longing for something else?
The LS400 meets my needs and my interior/exterior are like 9 out of 10... so keeping up the maintenance is a no brainer for me.. .plus you've already put $900 in it already. So for the rest, starter and timing belt are need tos and will cost. Calipers? Baloney. If they're working fine then replace the pads, turn the rotors and be done. Rack & Pinon... it can leak a bit and still work fine. Mine does. My 98 is pretty old and I don't expect it to be perfect, I know it's not, but for the money, I can't beat this ride, performance or reliability.
Any and every car will need maintenance. Period, unless you get a brand new one with some kind of maintenance deal, but even then you're paying for it some way.
If it's really about the money, how much would you spend on a replacement vehicle and what condition would it be in? I think spending $2-$3k over a couple of years on maintenance and repairs on a 20 year old car is pretty reasonable... then it will last a few more years before you have to put that much in again and it's a new decision. The more you can do yourself the better off you'll be.
Like others, I believe the LS400s is the best used car value out there, period. We've got a 98, a 99 and a 2000 in the family with 160-208k miles on them and they are strong performers.
There are always trade offs...
Do you still enjoy the car and want to keep it? Does it meet your needs, or if do the repairs/maintenance will you be longing for something else?
The LS400 meets my needs and my interior/exterior are like 9 out of 10... so keeping up the maintenance is a no brainer for me.. .plus you've already put $900 in it already. So for the rest, starter and timing belt are need tos and will cost. Calipers? Baloney. If they're working fine then replace the pads, turn the rotors and be done. Rack & Pinon... it can leak a bit and still work fine. Mine does. My 98 is pretty old and I don't expect it to be perfect, I know it's not, but for the money, I can't beat this ride, performance or reliability.
Any and every car will need maintenance. Period, unless you get a brand new one with some kind of maintenance deal, but even then you're paying for it some way.
If it's really about the money, how much would you spend on a replacement vehicle and what condition would it be in? I think spending $2-$3k over a couple of years on maintenance and repairs on a 20 year old car is pretty reasonable... then it will last a few more years before you have to put that much in again and it's a new decision. The more you can do yourself the better off you'll be.
Like others, I believe the LS400s is the best used car value out there, period. We've got a 98, a 99 and a 2000 in the family with 160-208k miles on them and they are strong performers.
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jtparkes (03-30-19)
#13
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As was previously mentioned, if maintenance costs are the ONLY reason you are considering getting rid of your LS, my advice is to keep it. Every car will need maintenance and if you know where to look for parts, Rockauto, Amazon, etc., they are not super expensive. Try to find an honest, knowledgeable Toyota or Lexus mechanic that does side work and charges a fair rate and you'll save a lot of money and still have the car you love. I'm assuming you love your LS like we do...
#14
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
I loved the car from the first day I sat in it. The leather only needs a little work but I can easily handle that. The kits from the recommended leather repair site is what I've already considered. Doors are fine. Exterior & paint are surprisingly good with only a couple of minor dings or maybe one. Very small like a nut or something fell out of a tree and hit it on the hood. I was planning to have it repainted or do it myself anyway (would love a more silvery color). I have plenty tools for that and some experience.
I have no problem buying my own parts, but I wouldn't use any auto zone crap. Already been through years of that with an older domestic vehicle. I kept her going as best I could including engine rebuild and she still runs well. Parts just don't last as long and aren't always an exact fit.
I'm just shocked at every time the shop quoted me for a repair it was like way up there. Cheapest repair was the rear transmission mount, but even that was around $150-200 IIRC (Hope I'm not exaggerating). If I can find a solid mechanic with lexus experience and doesn't mind me using my own parts then that will be fine. I trust this shop, I just don't care for their methods which seems to be the usual around here.... using only oem parts they order. I'll do some networking to find a good side mechanic and see how it goes.
I have no problem buying my own parts, but I wouldn't use any auto zone crap. Already been through years of that with an older domestic vehicle. I kept her going as best I could including engine rebuild and she still runs well. Parts just don't last as long and aren't always an exact fit.
I'm just shocked at every time the shop quoted me for a repair it was like way up there. Cheapest repair was the rear transmission mount, but even that was around $150-200 IIRC (Hope I'm not exaggerating). If I can find a solid mechanic with lexus experience and doesn't mind me using my own parts then that will be fine. I trust this shop, I just don't care for their methods which seems to be the usual around here.... using only oem parts they order. I'll do some networking to find a good side mechanic and see how it goes.
Last edited by Diwill05; 12-16-15 at 05:35 PM.