LS - 1st and 2nd Gen (1990-2000) Discussion topics related to the 1990 - 2000 Lexus LS400

96 LS400 transmission issue

Old 11-23-15, 01:25 PM
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ychen
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Default 96 LS400 transmission issue

Hi all,

Greetings,

I have owned this 96 LS400 for a little over 3 years when it had a little over 270K miles on it.. It has 300K miles now. I cleaned up the strainer right after I bought it. Two years ago, the transmission started having issues and generated noise at the engine startup after only 5K miles since the last strainer cleaning. Internet search all pointed to the clogged strainer. After dropped the pan and cleaned up the strainer. It started working again. In addition, someone suggested to add an external magnet filter, which I did right after the strainer cleaning 2 years ago. I changed the external filter a year later. Now it acted again last week and Saturday it finally stopped, no gears (reverse or forward). I dropped the pan yesterday, the strainer was dirty again, I cleaned it up and put it back, now the reverse gear is restored. Still no forward gear. I did notice some metal( like copper color) shavings inside the strainer yesterday along with the sludge. Does it sound like the forward clutch is toasted? Should I try to flush it since a drain and refill only replaces about 2 quarts. Thanks in advance for your thoughts and feedback.
Old 11-23-15, 03:07 PM
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timmy0tool
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these transmissions are fairly bulletproof if properly taken care of though 300k is a lot of miles. what is the type of transmission fluid you used?

the trans likes to only have toyota type t-IV ATF in them. you're right a drain and fill is only 2 quarts out of almost 9 quarts in the system. you may need a flush which you can do per the following:
http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/trans...ransflush.html

any other check engine lights given?
Old 11-23-15, 03:42 PM
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brybo86
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You could send a UOA on the fluid
Old 11-23-15, 06:04 PM
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ychen
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As far as I know it's always used Toyota type-IV. Sorry for my ignorance, What's UOA? FYI, I already dumped the fluid
Old 11-23-15, 06:07 PM
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sha4000
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Used
Oil
Analysis
Old 11-24-15, 03:13 AM
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dicer
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So what is the "dirty" that you are finding in the screen? If after that and no forward gears then I would not waste anymore fluid on it. Its ready to be fixed, overhauled, repaired, rebuilt........
Old 11-24-15, 02:00 PM
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ychen
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There were some copper shavings along with sludge.
Old 11-25-15, 10:18 AM
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dicer
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I'm pretty sure its bronze. And that would be bearings or thrust bearing material. Fluid drains are not going to fix it.
Old 11-25-15, 11:29 AM
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ychen
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Thanks. Trying to find replacement now.
Old 11-30-15, 12:16 PM
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ychen
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Still trying to find a replacement. The car has been out of town (son has been droning it). Today I finally had a chance to check the OBB II codes. It has codes P0500 and P0770. Is there a chance the transmission could be saved? Thanks again.
Old 12-01-15, 12:33 PM
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dicer
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Yeah it can be saved. But it needs to come out and taken apart to do so. And the torque converter will need replacement since it has metal in in now too. The trans cooler and lines need to be flushed out real good. Radiators aren't too costly so I'd just replace it.
Old 12-16-15, 02:47 PM
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ychen
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I found a used transmission with 168k miles. I Had an IND mechanic put it one. It works, but not very well. First of all, it jerks. In the morning, when put it in Reverse, It's fine it's very gentle (no jerks), next It's fine at Neutral. When it's put it in D it jerks big time. This seems happens only first thing in the morning. Afterwards, It's not noticeable. Secondly, again in the morning, it refuses to shift out of 1st gear until the idle hits 2500 rpm (this never happened before with the old transmission). Thirdly, the overall shifting is not as smooth as before (with the old transmission). When the new transmission was installed, I had the pan dropped and a new screener was installed. I provided the Toyota Type IV fluid. But who knows if the guy was using my fluid since I caught him trying to use other fluids when the pan was dropped (after install). After 200 miles, there is no check engine light (meaning no code) yet. My internet search seems to point to shift solenoids. Could bad fluids (wrong type or wrong level) could cause the symptoms that I am having? Thanks again.
Old 12-20-15, 09:57 AM
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badua808
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I have a 95' ls400 almost the same symptoms. The thump when going into gear in the morning could be a number of things, transmission mount, front lower control arm bushings or even your motor mounts. It is possible that there may have been some contaminated fluid left in your system from the old transmission which failed. If he didnt do a full flush (12 quarts) on the new transmission, or clear the lines out. Its possible it pushed debris back into the used transmission that is now in the vehicle. Shift solenoids is possible, but I wouldnt read too much into any online chats about it. Confirm proper fluid level for one, at operating temperature and in park. Was the transmission installed with a used torque converter also?
Old 12-21-15, 12:12 PM
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I agree with badua808, about not properly flushing it.
What does it jerks in the morning mean? And that could be the left engine mount being broke and could have been ready to break and the install of the transmission finished it. There is no such thing except maybe a race engine to idle at 2500 rpms. And staying in gear not shifting can be throttle valve not set right. Not sure if that is mechanical or electrical on that year.
Old 01-01-16, 09:37 AM
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ychen
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Thanks for the help. I meant the 2500 RPM when shifting out of 1st gear to second gear. I saw the guy use compressed air to clear out the line. The fluid level is correct right now. When they installed the transmission, they didn't drop the pan, the transmission was making a noise. I advised them to drop the pan and replaced the screener a couple days later. The noise is gone. They installed it with the converter coming with the new (used) transmission. I plan the flush the system by myself since I feel that I have much more knowledge on LS400 than them. Since the pan was dropped less than 200 miles ago, do I need to drop the pan again or just drain the fluid and do the flush? What do you all think? (of course dropping the pan is a bit of more work Thanks.

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