Is buying a 98-00 high mileage differential ok? (close to 200k,Pics)
#1
Driver School Candidate
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Is buying a 98-00 high mileage differential ok? (close to 200k,Pics)
Hi
I drive a 99' LS, a couple months back I threw the car on a lift to see the condition of the bottom end. It was originally an Ohio car. At 140,000 miles it has a good amount of rust on nearly every suspension component, as well as the differential. The diff was damp at this point with fluid. I knew I eventually had to replace the current subframe. A few days ago the car was on the lift again and the problem had escalated. Two drops of fluid were hanging from the diff along with a splatter of fluid on the bay and parts of the undercarriage. I knew I had to get these replaced ASAP.
My friend recommended I find a car and buy the entire subframe so axles, differentials, hubs, all suspension (besides shocks), and just swap those onto my car. I didnt want to go with a crashed car in fear some of the components would be warped or cracked.
I found a guy parting out a car. The part car is a 1998 mileage was unknown when I went to inspect it yesterday as the cluster that displayed 120k was found in the trunk lol. I ran the VIN in MyCarFax and saw that the last record was from 2007 when it had 168,000 miles. Carfax estimates it now had 298,000 miles but that is an estimate.
Would a differential with possibly close to 200k or over be okay to use? I'll most likely get all new bushings for suspension components, and they dont have rust so I think i'm good with those. But the unknown mileage diff is really bothering me. It doesn't leak.
Is it okay to run this diff? Do they ever go bad or have major problems on these models years?
Any other things I should look out for with these components?
Any insight would be appreciated!!
I drive a 99' LS, a couple months back I threw the car on a lift to see the condition of the bottom end. It was originally an Ohio car. At 140,000 miles it has a good amount of rust on nearly every suspension component, as well as the differential. The diff was damp at this point with fluid. I knew I eventually had to replace the current subframe. A few days ago the car was on the lift again and the problem had escalated. Two drops of fluid were hanging from the diff along with a splatter of fluid on the bay and parts of the undercarriage. I knew I had to get these replaced ASAP.
My friend recommended I find a car and buy the entire subframe so axles, differentials, hubs, all suspension (besides shocks), and just swap those onto my car. I didnt want to go with a crashed car in fear some of the components would be warped or cracked.
I found a guy parting out a car. The part car is a 1998 mileage was unknown when I went to inspect it yesterday as the cluster that displayed 120k was found in the trunk lol. I ran the VIN in MyCarFax and saw that the last record was from 2007 when it had 168,000 miles. Carfax estimates it now had 298,000 miles but that is an estimate.
Would a differential with possibly close to 200k or over be okay to use? I'll most likely get all new bushings for suspension components, and they dont have rust so I think i'm good with those. But the unknown mileage diff is really bothering me. It doesn't leak.
Is it okay to run this diff? Do they ever go bad or have major problems on these models years?
Any other things I should look out for with these components?
Any insight would be appreciated!!
#2
i personally would not mind putting the parts car diff in, since the diff really does not see high temperature, wear and tear other than missed drain and fill intervals. even if missed, no leaks is a good thing. the guibo bushing looks decent as well. if the car was beat that bushing would be shot!
to me i would estimate the diff to have about 180k on it, and even then it's in much better shape than what you are currently describing as a rusting rear end you have now. it's hard enough to find a parts car alone. carfax assumes the car was being driven as time ticks by and in this case it sounds like the car just sat.
to me i would estimate the diff to have about 180k on it, and even then it's in much better shape than what you are currently describing as a rusting rear end you have now. it's hard enough to find a parts car alone. carfax assumes the car was being driven as time ticks by and in this case it sounds like the car just sat.
#3
There's an LS400 running around with almost a million miles on it. I wouldn't hesitate to pick these components up and use them. I would recommend pulling the diff drain plug to make sure there are no metal slivers or chunks on it prior to purchase. Only takes a couple minutes and you need to service the fluid anyway.
#5
BahHumBug
iTrader: (10)
If the leak is on the back, you can reseal it for the cost of a tube of toyota FIPG (black i think). If it's in the front (pinion seal) then it's likely not worth the labor to repair.
A replacement diff should easily be under $200 (+50-75 for east coast rust tax) from a wrecking yard, less from a private party. I wouldn't pay >$100 for the diff you described because there's no idea of the condition of the seals in it.
Please remember to replace your differential bushings when replacing it as they are most likely toast by now.
A replacement diff should easily be under $200 (+50-75 for east coast rust tax) from a wrecking yard, less from a private party. I wouldn't pay >$100 for the diff you described because there's no idea of the condition of the seals in it.
Please remember to replace your differential bushings when replacing it as they are most likely toast by now.
#7
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