PlotPoint

Again. LS400 '94. The driver's side low beam went out a few days after I had it replaced. The previous builb lasted forever (years and years), so I am hoping that maybe the new bulb was defective? The brake light on the driver's side also goes out all the time, but I was told the reason it is doing this is bcause the socket is burned out. So the next time I take it in, I am going to ask for that to be replaced. Is there any connection between the tail light problem and the headlamp going out?

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

was it a Philips bulb?

Aftermarke HID bulbs have terrible QC and don't last nearly as long. I would rather have a used Philips OEM bulb than a new aftermarket.

PlotPoint

I don't know but will find out. Is Philips OEM what Lexus recommends? He charged about $9 for three tail lamp bulbs and $11 for the low beam bulb, then another $25 for labor (to replace the four bulbs). In total, I paid close to $45 and am still wihtout a low beam on one side. I do not have tools and am not a DIY person, so that's not an option.

Also was wondering if it's wise to buy a used tail light socket. I expect any bulb put in there to not last long due to the condition of that socket.. So the socket needs to be replaced. Those are expensive if purchased new...not positive, but I thought I heard someone say "several hundred"??

timmy0tool

iTrader: (7)

early model ls400s 90-94 are highly susceptible to taillamp failure due to a brittle wire harness off the trunk hinge on the driver's side. constant open close of the trunk causes the wires in the loom to break and start shorting each other. i would first check that harness to make sure the wires are intact before replacing any more bulbs.

this could be related to the headlights as well. OEM bulbs were made by denso, and philips is a great OEM alternative.

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

MIssed the year of your car, was referencing the factory HID in '98+ cars.

What i said does not apply to you.

PlotPoint

Thanks. Someone else might benefit from the info all the same. It turns out it's not the bulb. It's a fried headlamp socket. How often does that happen?

PlotPoint

I would like to know more about how a tail lamp going out can cause problems with the headlights. Thought they were not related. Since my last post, I took the car in to get the headlamp replaced and they found that the socket was slightly burrned out. He put it back together and the headlight came on. A short time later we noticed an electrical burning smell. So he detached the socket and it was by that time completely fried. Is there a simple way to test the wires that lead to the socket? I can either put on a new socket and see if it burns out again, in which case I will know I have a short somewhere (and will have wasted the cost of that OEM part), or I can test before putting on a new socket. If the shop has to track down an electrical issue, that can get expensive very quickly. Any suggestions for what I can try myself would be great.

Yamae

I would check the output voltage of the alternator if two different bulbs were open quickly.
When the voltage sensing line is open, too high voltage is supplied from the alternator and bulbs tend to be killed by the over voltage.

dicer

Country that made them? If they don't last, 1st is China, 2nd is Mexico. If it burns out too quick I would take them back. Just like Takata air bag inflaters these companys need to figure out it is not cheaper to make products in countries that don't care about the products they produce.

PlotPoint

Thanks. Agreed, but he uses everything OEM as far as I know.

billydpowe

iTrader: (1)

Sometimes when an electrical connection (hot wire) loses it's common ground (loose connection) it will arc (like a welder) to another metal part seeking a ground.... and cause un-natural problems..
I ran across some of these in my 50 years of auto service (like the trunk hinge wiring)
make sure you have a GOOD ground... it is important.

PlotPoint

ok, will do. this second bulb came on today...it was the socket that burned up.

the alternator is ageing...but the output was fine when it was last check by AAA (they test the alternator when/if I have any issues with the battery). so the alternator supplies the current to the socket/headlamp? you can tell i am not a mechanic. i read somewhere that that the headlamp determines the draw. I really do not know enough about how this works to know what should be done first.

I would rather do testing to pinpoint the problem rather than just start replacing things that will fail and have to be replaced again.

i also read in another forum that once a socket fries like that it can do something to the point (?) on the headlamp (contact point?) which can cause higher voltage draw. i have no idea.

Yamae

A fried socket means that there exists a contact resistance. Once it is fried, the surface of the contact is oxidized more and the resistance is increased and the bulb will be too much heated because the resistance generates the heat more.

It would be the best to replace the socket. but when the replacement can't be done quickly, brush the contact and bend some more to have a good connection.

PlotPoint

i am now questioning whether a wrong wattage bulb was put in and that fried the socket? Anyone know the part #? All Ihave on my invoice is 0001LWBM assumg the letters mean "low beam'). Thanks. This is for a '94 ls400.

RA40

iTrader: (6)

9003 type bulb. The "tuner" bulbs have higher wattage specs and those are to be avoided. Walmart usually has the standard or long life bulbs available.

http://www.philipsautolighting.com/ajax_select.php