ajahearn

Sorry I did a search and I didn't find anything specifically covering how to compress the front pistons. I'm going to be replace the front pads this weekend. I haven't dealt with a fixed caliper before so I'm not sure if I have to remove the caliper to be able to get to the pistons. I have the tool for turning rotors on japanese brakes. Any guidance is appreciated. Thanks in advance.

djamps

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...-00-ls400.html

Get a large set of pliers or a piston compression tool and use the old brake pads to push them in.

ajahearn

Thanks. I've seen this posting but it is light (not at all) on how to compress the pistons.

But thanks for the tool comment. I've only had cases where I used either a large C clamp or a brake tool which is used to turn the pistons inward clockwise. This tool makes sense although its a shame as I doubt I will use it more than once - won't work on the screw type pistons but that's life.

As a strange coincidence, I have the exact same Sears Kenmore gas dryer in my garage as in the photos.

cgawelko

Big *** C clamp is all you need. I have a 10" Cast iron one that weighs a ton, but it does the trick every time.

dicer

If its a 91 and newer you need 2 c clamps.

Nishy

What did they change in 91? I have a 89/90 and I only needed one....

Legender

I've got a 5 inch c clamp and it works fine. I leave the pad in and press both pistons in at the same time. Works great and a cheap tool. Many will recommend that you break the bleeder valve and press the old/used fluid out to your capture container. It does make the compression part easier and it does not push old fluid back up into your system.

ajahearn

Thanks for the additional comments. I will definitely bleed the brakes and this should make it easier to compress the pistons. Turns out Autozone will loan the tool so I will go that route for now.

timmy0tool

iTrader: (7)

as stated all you really need is a big c-clamp and reuse the old pad as the surface to push the pistons back in. if you do it one at a time, the other piston tends to get pushed out so they need to be compressed together.

remember to open the reservoir cap bc the fluid will be going back into the reservoir when the caliper pistons are compressed. sometimes it spills over if it was ever refilled in between pad changes so keep an eye on the level. don't forget to reinstall the cap when the job is done! this is different from what legender suggested.

dicer

2 piston calipers started in 91.

ajahearn

One last (hopefully) stupid question, I picked up the loaner tool from Autozone but it still looks like I need to remove the caliper from the car to get access to the pistons. With the C clamp I am pretty certain you would have to remove the caliper but with the dedicated tool I had thought (hoped) I could compress without removing the caliper. All the videos of using these tools deal with floating calipers. Anybody confirm I can do this without removing the caliper?

cgawelko

Is this your first brake job? (Not trying to be a ****, just not sure how descriptive I need to be) If you loosen one of the smaller bolts and remove the other, the cradle can pivot outwards and you can compress the pistons.

Those big *** bolts are not to be removed.

ajahearn

No problem with asking the question - I would.

I've done several brake jobs in the past. However all of those involved floating calipers where you can remove one bolt and swing the caliper out of the way of the rotor. This makes access to the pistons easy. WIth my 96 the caliper is fixed so it seems I have to remove all retaining bolts and use something to hold it (brake line) while I compressed the pistons. I was hoping this tool I rented would slide a plate or similar in between the rotor and the piston that would allow me to compress it. I am pretty convinced in looking at this caliper kit that the caliper has to come off. I hope the bolts aren't that hard - I'd rather not get the air hammer out.

ajahearn

Just as an aside, I don't mean using the brake line to hold the caliper. That would not be smart. I just meant that the caliper would have to be held by something (bungy cord).

cgawelko

Okay so 1996 makes its a UCF20 - whole different ball game. On the UCF10 we have the same setup as most cars. Two small bolts allowing the cradle with the pistons to be pivoted outward on one of the small 12mm bolts, and then there is to two big *** 17s down on the spindle mount which are not removed.

Clarifying which year would have been a help - which is why were are talking about the UCF10 and trying to figure out whats the trouble lol