Nishy

I'm looking at turbo'ing my 1uz using the "cheap power" method we've all read about ie: single bank small turbo running only ~6 psi for an "easy" ~50 hp gain. I've mostly made up my mind on a T04E turbo, but what trim would best suit the goals I'm looking for? This is the first full custom setup I have ever done for a turbo, and I would prefer to not blow up my engine right off the bat, not choke it out in the upper range too much, and not spool too high. I was thinking the 50 trim would be a decent fit, but it might be a tad too big and I can't find too many specs on a 46 trim.

Thanks!

AkumaUCF10

Cheap and turbo do not belong together. Like at all. Trust me I've been building turbo motors for years in other platforms. You're honestly better off buying a second hand supercharger kit and running 5 lbs of boost if you only want and extra 50 hp. Here's why...
1) With turbo you risk the potential of over boosting if the wastegate line pops off or fails or even if the wastegate assembly itself fails
2) Turbo means custom exhaust plumbing which gets insanely expensive, even if you're doing it yourself its gonna take a lot of time and a lot of metal... Whereas the supercharger is a longer belt and a custom bracket
3) Where's the turbo going to sit? There's not a lot of places you can stick a turbo in that engine bay. The most logical place would be the back of the engine at the bottom. The supercharger sits at the front on top or to the side, there will be difficulty with fitment but it is smaller so its definitely easier. Plus the turbo sitting at the back will mean longer intake plumbing as well and coolant lines and oil lines (depending on the type of turbo)
4) This brings me to my next point of coolant and oil lines. These will also have to be custom, i.e. expensive. Superchargers do run off oil, its usually a dedicated system that needs an oil cooler but still less work and cheaper than running all those lines for the turbo.
5) In either situation you will need some sort of tune to the fuel map. There's no way around this. This will be expensive, but odds are if you are buying someones set up second hand they have the ecu "chip" and will have no use for it anymore so you might be able to score that for cheaper as well

I could probably come up with more reasons but I'll stop.

End of the day dude I know it seems easy to just "slap a turbo on it"... But its not. Turbo-ing NA motors is a certifiable pain in the *****. Please take my advice and save your hair from being pulled out on account of frustration

cgawelko

Ignore what anyone says. Come hang with us on facebook - search for 1uz/2uz forced induction technical page. When you hit a request to join it will notify me on my phone right away and I will add you in. First I will tell you a tiny turbo is going to run out of steam REALLY early and you will kill it. Precision 6266 is the best choice - 1.0ar. Journal bearing and dont do ball bearing. The full float is less plumbing and if you call AZ tractor and turbo - Joel will tell you all the reasons why not to go ball bearing.

And anyone who picks the supercharger is wasting money. The M112 will MAYBE get you 50hp, but you might as well duct tape some piping to your **** and fart and get the same gains. I got lots of people who run MAD 1uzs. Not one bothers with the supercharger. At least not in the past 15 years since superchargers have been stagnant and turbos have gotten advanced and badarse.

Buddy of mine was in a magazine for the cheapest drift build - 1uz swapped volvo. Drives a K70 with a 1uz with ITBs, and turbos 1uzs more than people LS swap things.

djamps

Has a rear mount setup ever been done on this platform?

cgawelko

Yes and provides minimal lag (considering you are adding 10 feet in the intake piping at a minimum lol) . The ITB guy actually has a soft spot for rear mounts.

Nishy

A 6266.... I feel like that's way overkill for the small gains I want lmao. I was even considering swapping an OE turbo from something like a Skyline, v6 Saab, or flat 6 Subie. Realistically I'm looking for like 250-270whp, but my main concern is I dont want to choke it out too much in the upper range.My car is very very low so I don't do high speed driving anyway. I'm looking more for low end power.

AkumaUCF10

Hahahahaha precision 6266, thats a 700+ hp rated turbo typically put on an RB26 or 2JZ's but ok lets tell this guy who wants 50 hp to run it
The point that I was trying to make is that If you only want 50 hp than yeah go for supercharger. Turbo is gonna be hella expensive. How much are you looking to spend? What are you prepared to do? Are you gonna rebuild the motor, put lower compression pistons and forged internals in and all that good stuff? Cus if not I wouldn't really recommend throwing too much boost pressure at that motor. What is it a 10 or 10.5 to 1 compression ratio?
How involved do you want this build to be?
I guess it really just comes down to what you are prepared to do and spend

Nishy

So is a super. Yes, I know what all it takes to build a custom turbo setup. I'm well aware that I am going to have to have custom piping. And these motors can handle up to I think it's like 12 pounds of boost before you have to get upgraded fuel components and 17 pounds before new rods. I'm not 100% on those numbers, but that's close. All I'm looking for like 6 or 7 pounds. Which is another reason the 6266 wouldn't be good... it would never spool.

AkumaUCF10

Yeah but if you read my original thing buying a second hand supercharger kit wouldn't be super expenisve. I still think its gonna be cheaper and its something to look into before just making the decision but whatever take my advice or not. Its your car and wallet dude, not mine

Anything T3 will work so like a gt30. GT3076 would probably work best. Ball bearing so it will spool quicker.
Stock saab v6 turbo might work the inlet is a little restricted thats why I'm saying go with a t3 flanged turbo. Stock skyline turbo is t3 flanged but won't be big enough because they are t/3 flanged t25s and t28s

cgawelko

You have 4 liters. A tiny little turbo off a Saab or subaru will spool up at flippin idle.

Joys of a 6266 is you dont have to run it at its full potential all the time. Weird, but I dont know if you guys know this, but you can set the PSI to low boost settings.

If you want to go turbo, I can tell you how to do it. If you want to **** away money and waste your time over a tiny little 50hp, then buy a piggyback ECU - change the fuel mapping, up your injectors and be done. LS400 runs pig rich as it is. Clean it up and you will get that baby horsepower gain.

I dont do babysoft. If you are going to go turbo, anything smaller than a 0.83AR is a waste of everyones time.

AkumaUCF10

The reason why I said Saab turbo is cus they can run high boost for a factory turbo so could handle that kind of load and flow pretty reasonably as well, the motors themselves are a little bigger in size than the others he mentioned.

But I 100% agree with that second bit, was gonna suggest that the the OP but he seemed to be on the forced induction hype. Yeah if 50 hp gain is all that you desire this can be acheived by maximizing the flow of the engine (headers, exhaust, intake) and a tune on the engine

cgawelko

Max PSI of all saabs is 1.08BAR on the B234R and thats a small TD04. Step down from that is the B204L @14.5PSI.

Talking about a spool up around 1800rpm because they build up the boost by 3000rpm on the saab. And then the other Saab turbo is a Garrett T25 - both teeennny little things. Spooled by 3000rpm in a 2L and 2.3L - we have 4L.

Turbo for 50hp is a waste.

dicer

I think I could get that extra 50 with no turbo, and less mess than playing with piping going everywhere. And actually you could go NOS and push a bit more, I wonder how long head gaskets will last?

cgawelko

Stock head gaskets can hold 14psi of boost - but Mike was hitting nitrous in his car and went too far. You can put a safe 75 shot on and go that way but I personally am not a fan of nitrous.