KazzyEman

Hi, I have a Lexus LS400 1990.

My bf and I are replacing water pump and timing belt.
We were almost done putting everything back together when I tried to torque down a bolt on the left side of water pump inlet.
Yep, the left side ear of the water pump inlet where you screw in the bolt broke.
I was so angry at myself.

There has been many bumps through my journey into fixing my car. I felt horrible.

We looked through a few youtube videos to see what we can do.

JB Welding might be the answers to our prayers.

But before I use it, I need your tips or opinion on what to do.

I bought two JB Welding....I got the steelstick and the original.

My thoughts was to use the original JB Weld and apply to the broken part and put it together. Then use the steelstick to roll and cover the broken piece and weld to the water pump.

This is my 2nd water pump. The first one I bought at Rock Auto and there was damage to the pump. Instead of returning the pump and all the items because I had warranty....I decided to buy a new one...water pump only.

I am unsure if I can return water pump to autozone because it's a limited warranty. I didn't ask yet.

It's been 7 months without my car and it's frustrating.

I will post pictures.

I hope someone can help

KazzyEman

These are more pictures.

sha4000

iTrader: (1)

Wow that's the first time I've seen that on this forum. It's very easy the damage the aluminum. That's a critical area and I don't know if I would trust JB Weld there. You need to take a moment and think about what your doing since you want to get it right the FIRST time.You have to prep the area really well and after you repair let it sitfor at least a day. Don't use the quick set one either.

billydpowe

iTrader: (1)

I am not in to patching anything, so with a 90 model I would use a salvage yard and get a used part and do it right.. dont build in regrets for later on..

aptoslexus

I wouldn't trust my cooling system to a patch like that. Think about the expansion/contraction that is going on there with the heat. Bite the bullet and get a new one. I also suggest using a torque wrench.

SHOoff11

I'd defiantly try a junkyard like Billy recommended.

dicer

JB weld won't hold it for long. Real weld maybe. Are you sure the correct bolt was used? The part will have to be replaced.

In the picture with your fingers, the material looks like it was burnished, pushed because of the burr that is above the hole so likely a wrong thread or large size bolt was used in that hole and that is why it broke also it could have been cross threaded its hard to tell with pictures. Also one picture it looked like a void or inclusion in the material that would also cause it.

oldskewel

iTrader: (1)

I noticed the void in there too. Looks like a manufacturing defect to me, so I'd expect the warranty should apply.

Also, to snap it off like that would be tough to do if the two sealing surfaces were flat. If the water pump surface were a little convex (vs. flat), it would mean the clamping force when you torque down would be working to snap it off. I've had problems on aftermarket cast parts like this that are not as dimensionally precise as they should be. ... So all that points to reason why you should get the warranty replacement.

I personally would not risk the JB Weld. It could be good for a while and then blow out when you don't need it and your coolant would be gone very quickly.

Stroock639

you gotta remember that this is a car that cost just about $40k... in 1989... they're not meant to be patched together. they're so well built that you CAN do such a thing and it'll probably still run but if you want such a premium car you gotta make sure you have the money to fix it properly or just be a total wizard in the shop. the junkyard would prob be your best bet at this point

i'd also get rid of whatever green coolant you have in there and put some factory red in as it *might* help prevent any further corrosion that may or may not have happened

nipponbird

I would've resorted to welding if I had crash landed in the middle of the Sahara and the car was given to me by a well-meaning Berber to get me to the nearest town 500 miles away (and preferably I'd do the welding with a TIG), but you're not in that position - do it right and get another one - you are in America where you can get any part for a reasonable price, even for a wagon made a hundred and fifty years ago.

dicer

And besides unless you have a Tig welder, the cost to have it fixed would be as much or twice as much as a new part. No matter what the fix the part has to come off to fix it.
Also I am not familiar with what the Toyota red coolant is, and if the green is prestone it will perform as good or better than the red stuff. Doesn't the normal red coolant only last for a few years?

KazzyEman

Hi, Thanks for responding. I don't know about which coolant is better. I bought the cheap Autozone kind.

KazzyEman

Thank you all so much for giving me your advice on what to do. I didn't want to hear the truth but now I know I have to try to return my water pump. It's tough when you spent a lot of money, a lot of time and a lot of energy with the hopes that I was so close to turn the engine to hear the great sound of your car working.

Now back to square one....removing everything.....removing new coolant.....and finding a place to put the pin back into the timing belt tensioner.

Thank you so much.

cobalt91

You can put the pin back in the tensioner your self. If you vise, use the vise to push the piston back into cylinder and put your pin in.

sha4000

iTrader: (1)

Yeah just tear it down and return the part. Like has been said, I would flush the coolant out and put some Toyota red in there. Take cobalt91s advice and put the tensioner in a vice to compress it so you can slide the pin back into it.