CELSI0R

Okay, sounds like a plan, regarding the door.

As for the part, I can definitely understand why it would be good to keep your costs low. As I said in my previous post, I hope a UCF20/21 member can step in and help further.

hyperopt

Looks like your trans mount is shot from the picture. Replace the trans mount first, then the drive shaft coupler later. Aftermarket coupler is not going to last. I would rather pull a used OEM coupler from the junkyard than the new aftermarket.

jaaa

Okay. How could you tell the trans mount was shot. I just couldn't tell. I didn't see any cracks in/on the rubber parts.

hyperopt

Looking at the left rubber in the picture, the upper-right hand corner of the rubber clearly separated from the top metal piece. You can jack up the trans at the two mounting bolts in the picture and the cracks will be clearer.

jaaa

I'll take your word for it and order an OEM mount. I found one for $45 or so and it says it's OEM and even had the part number on it. That seemed like a good price as I had seen several for far more.

hyperopt

By looking at the pics of the trans mount, drive shaft coupler, and the car mileage (200k+), I am fairly certain that the motor mounts are shots as well unless previously replaced. Newly installed trans mount will go south quickly in car with bad engine mounts.

jaaa

Yeah, I know. Just trying to spread this maintenance around. I still have a timing belt kit, both valve covers, and trany and oil pans that need to be sealed. This car has had no maintenance done in a long time. Good thing I'm retired.

sha4000

iTrader: (1)

Yeah the expenses can add up quick. You've been given some sound advice already.

jaaa

Got my OEM trany mount in the mail today. Now I can see what you were talking about in the picture. Still snowing here so will wait a day or two, but I can see in the picture that the left hand side of the mount has totally delaminated. Thanks for the great on-line troubleshooting.

jaaa

It fell apart in two pieces. Took it for a test drive and all is well.

jaaa

Took a trip to Vegas this last week. Car did just fine..............except! This is the first time I had loaded down the car(five people and luggage) , so I found out the shocks/springs are shot. I'm a complete novice at it, but know that going with Monroe probably is not the right route. I think I'd like to go with a complete assembly if I'm going to do it myself. If not, I think I could learn how to compress the springs safely. After a quick search, I saw these cheap ones:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/90-00-Lexus-...BUf3K5&vxp=mtr
Anyone out there ever use these?

I'd like to go KYB if I could and saw these:

https://www.amazon.com/KYB-FRONT-REA.../dp/B002T02OM6

I just want my shocks to get better. Not really wanting to go back to oem quality, but don't want to be driving a boat(like I am right now). I assume I'm on original shocks and springs, so does it make sense to leave the springs on and just replace the shocks or just replace it all. Like I said, I have no expertise at all and invite any opinion. Just trying to get educated by someone who has already done this.

CELSI0R

I like Monroe and KYB a lot. I don't trust the cheaper struts, because you essentially get what you paid for a good amount of the time.

There was one time in the past where I had to change the struts 3 times in a row, because the springs kept making creaking noises while driving (going through turns, hitting bumps, etc). This was on another car though; not an LS 400.

Hopefully there is a member here who can provide more insight on those Ebay struts, but I would definitely go with KYB or Monroe.

I would also just replace them all (spring and strut). Pretty much all come as MacPherson struts, and it's not worth the hassle to go through changing the rear ones twice over a short span of time.

jaaa

Just thought I'd keep up with current events. Just changed out my timing belt with a gates kit. I followed the 90-94 procedure and found it worked well enough. Had the bank 1 cam spin on me just as I was putting the belt on, but just turned the cam back. The impetus to do this repair was a leak that started just above the compressor- and sure enough when I pulled the water pump- you could see a break on the gasket. Oh yeah, the fan assembly bearing was totally bad. There were metal shavings everywhere and it sounded like a bag of marbles when I shook it. Up next is replacing the shocks.

jaaa

Just got done with the shocks on all four corners. I went with the cheap one's from the link above. $288 for all four assemblies. I managed to screw up my abs system somehow while banging on the rear shocks. Looks like I will be troubleshooting that as time allows. Not really an imperative fix, just no abs action till I fix it. Did get my caps and rotors in that I ordered after tearing it apart for the timing belt kit. I think the caps and rotors are original to the car, so it's time.

dicer

So where the springs on the shocks already? If so how did the top mounts fit? I had to send the cheapys back because the stud pattern would not fit the shock towers. And I wasn't going to use a round file and file on the body.