2GenLS4

Hey guys, I'm generally new to Lexus; However I'm not new to the VIP, or race car scene.
I grew up around built Mustangs, and Wrx swapped Subaru family wagons.

My dad bought a 91' Lexus LS400, and got his hands on some Megan coilovers (static) for relitively cheap, threw some SC430 wheels on it, and it looks pretty good.

He then bought an old friends SC300 show car, it's had better days, has the full junction produce body kit, some Tein basic coilovers, maybe a few special parts here and there, but like I said it has seen it's better days.

Here's my story, and the reason I'm here.

I bought a 96' LS400 on craigslist this Monday,
I got it for a GREAT, I mean GREAT deal.

I paid $700 for the car, and got some $2000 wheels for free (MMR HR3 chrome 20")

so I'm already at a + for the car, now it has some LS430 17" chrome wheels on it, because I traded them to my dad for his 03' Lexus LS430 wheels for the time being, since the HR3's have the tire spine showing...

As it is, the car is dirty, it's ugly, it's got a fist sized dent in the fender, the hood and the roof are both faded.

I don't want to put a lot of money into a $700, 265K car.

I have some lowering springs from my dads '91 LS, that I'm going to try to put in,

now here comes the best part.

Before I bought the car, I asked the owner, has it ever been lowered? Nope...
Has it ever had exhaust? nope...

Ok, but the car had a bad exhaust leak, so that's when things start to get funny.

I take the car to my friends shop by my house to get the exhaust leak checked out, hopefully that's the cause of my CEL.

looks like the other owner lied to me, it definitely had exhaust previously as the exhaust was, check this out. JB WELDED ON!

the fenders are rolled, and the strut tower top bolts were snug finger tight, which makes me believe the car had exhaust, and suspension; don't you think? unless this guy REALLY doesn't know how to work on a car.

alright, back to my question.

I have a CEL, I pulled the battery out of the car for about 6 hours, while I was rewiring the Crank position sensor, since the guy decided to crush the wiring under the fan motor, and have the wires and split loom being eaten by my serpentine belt..

when I re-installed the battery, of course the CEL is gone, because data has been erased, but shortly after, it came back on.

I had the exhaust welded over, and the CEL went away for a little while, but it came back.

Seems that I have a bad cat; I'm not going to go buy some new cats for a $700 car;

should I junk it, or should I just run a bunch of seafoam through the intake manifold before I get a smog check, I literally don't expect the car to break 350k, and more than likely I will sell it to another enthusiest before then.

However, I don't have much money to sink into this car in the first place, I'm going to keep the rims, and the junction produce tail likes the car came with, drive the car for a bit then sell it.

I just need to pass smog, and get around for 6-7 months tops before it dies or I sell it.

Help help help!!

cobalt91

How do you know the catalyst is bad? What was the code?

dicer

Can't help if you don't read the code. Auto parts places do it for free, code readers are dirt cheap.

2GenLS4

1. I am not 100% sure, I was at work last night and my dad scanned it for me, he said he was 100% sure it was cats.
2. Code readers are cheap, but in California, Atleast where I live it is illegal for auto parts stores to scan, take it from me; I work at O'Reilly, and use to work at Napa.

timmy0tool

iTrader: (7)

yes you totally need to get the code(s) somehow. that will pin point the problem directly!

these cats are actually very good and hardly ever die, unless the car was running poorly which can kill said cats. from the condition you described, the car has had better days so the cats could be indeed bad. only checking the code would make this certain. it may be a simple problem like the o2 sensor instead!

2GenLS4

Thanks for the replies guys, it's v appreciated.
If the CEL comes back on soon I'll give you an exact code;
Yes as you said the exhaust was literally dangling by JB Weld, at first I thought the loud exhaust was caused by a damaged or cracked EGR flex tube, (happy it isn't)
But now I'm affraid that since there was a hole before and after both cat it may have caused it to go bad;
If it's as simple as a O2 sensor I'll be happy because they are cheap on my cost, and available right away.

I just need to get the thing smogged and registered.

Back to the OP; as I said I don't expect the car to run past 350k but if there any additives you guys would recommend in the mean time to bump it a little further, any maintinence?
Timing belt was done, fan was done, serpentine belt was done, oil change and tranny flush was just done on Tuesday. Anything else I can do relitively cheap, or even by myself to get the most of this car?

AandSC

Assuming you have new(ish) spark plugs, air filter, PCV? I would recommend a differential drain and fill also. Sounds as if your biggest concern (highest priority) is figuring out if your cats are good or not. You could also get a maintenance schedule and ensure all maintenance is up to date.

2GenLS4

Sparkplugs are somewhat new,
The air filter was dirty but I cleaned it up, vacuumed out much of the dust/dirt.
Not sure as of the PCV.
Speaking of the differential, when I brake and let off the car slightly jerks, like something is hitting. Another one of my friends mentioned something about a differential bushing?

timmy0tool

iTrader: (7)

clunking in the driveline could very well by your transmission mount which is very common at your mileage. it's very easy to replace thankfully. this also means your motor mounts would be shot as well. vibrations at high speeds can be felt with compromised tranny and engine mounts.

the next suspension component to go is the front strut rod bushings. search on how to replace them. symptoms include bad alignment and uneven tire wear, along with suspension clunks over bumps..

2GenLS4

Thanks Timmy for the reply, how can I tell whether or not the transmission mount is shot?
The motor mounts are physically in good condition; no vibrations shaking etc. aside from regular play.

The front suspension bushings are more than likely shot as well, when I got the car the first thing I noticed was extreme camber wear on the tires, and only in the front.

I am lowering the car this afternoon so, while I have everything apart I will check it out.

dresmoove

I know this is about your car but I was just reading thru and seen that you said hard clunking when shifting could be a compromised tranny and motor mounts would be shot too...I am experiencing vibrations at high speeds now as well, I thought it was because I just put rims on and maybe something was rubbing somewhere or misaligned. Long story short what do I need to focus on and fix.and is it something I can do myself. Thanks in advance.

2GenLS4

First things first, I fixed my CEL, it was a P0420 code, but was only pulled due to the exhaust leak, hasn't come back on and have driven over 60 miles so far, another 90 to go until the data is wiped and will smog.

Dresmoove, if the vibrations started after you put the rims on the car, it sounds like it may be a mount and balance issue, try getting the wheels balanced, if you're still having a vibrating issue could be allignment; i doubt it will be a motor mount issue since you only started experiencing this after swapping wheels.

No worries, it's an open thread; happy to help all I can!

sha4000

iTrader: (1)

At that mileage the tranny and motor mounts are definitely gone unless they have been changed at some point in time. An indication that the tranny mount is gone is if you get a jerk when you shift from park to drive. I do understand that's not your immediate concern though.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1990-1991-1992-1993-1994-1995-1996-1997-Lexus-LS400-catalytic-converters-PAIR-/301632676224?fits=Make%3ALexus%7CModel%3ALS400&hash=item463ab56180&vxp=mtr

2GenLS4

I'm not getting any jerking from park to drive, the small clunk, sound I'm getting is definitely from the differential, as it happens when I'm braking and let off and I get a gentle clunking sound. I just think it's ware and tear on the diff. and eventually will need to be replaced, definitely not a concern in my opinion. However, I'm just happy the CEL is gone now! Yippee!

dresmoove

Yea that was my first thought, but what about the drivetrain how and motor and transmission mounts. How expensive and difficult are they to do? Because if it's something I can just buy and replace I'll do that because they have a DIY shop out here with mechanics that's will help and supply you with all the tools you need.