dicer

http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/trans...n/removal.html

Please scroll down to picture number 11 that shows the placement of the car lift arm and pad.
Is it on the floor? I would think better placement would be on the subframe.

Shmee

iTrader: (3)

it's on the body seam
standard lifting point on a hoist...

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

You aren't seeing it correctly. It's the front driver's side body seam, the correct place to jack the car up and not at all "flat".

dicer

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls4...ft-points.html
It just didn't look like it was on a pinch weld seam, something that lexus didn't plan too well anyway.
I agree with the post here about the sub frame, just a better perch for a flat face lifting device. And your notched wood is a good idea, but are we all sure that that area is as beefy as that sub frame is? Sorry I'm just kinda fussy, I would have thought if that pinch weld jack point was the chosen thing then why not encase the lift pad on the scissor jack with a formed plastic to do the same as a slotted board and protect the paint, no paint means a good place for rust to start.

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

the pinch weld is the correct place.

The front subframe is NOT reinforced and not meant for that kind of repeated load. the rear subframe is only where the diff is mounted. Don't recall there being any point on the subframes that are safe to jack from.

dicer

Yes per the manual it is the correct place. A lot of cars do that too, IMO its just not good engineering, to have a jack point that has the surface area of a kitchen knife, its not the area above the pinch weld that is to support the load, it is the edge of the pinch weld that supports it, just engage the factory jack to it and see how it engages it. Its a shame they did it that way, impossible to use that jack and not make bare metal and start the rusting process let alone fold it over or spread it apart wow. Need a poll how many cars have messed up jack point pinch welds?

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

The pinch weld is what gives that are it's strength, and as such is the ideal place to jack up the vehicle. The factory jack when used properly does exactly 0 damage to the factory pinch welds. The damage often comes from people using regular consumer jacks on them without an adapter. Every lift has a pinch weld notch in the arms that works just fine.


Apply load to the center of a piece of flat paper then make a V-fold in the center and try again.

Please go on about "not good engineering".

dicer

http://mustangforums.com/forum/5-0l-...inch-weld.html

Not Lexus, but still interesting what the dealer says in court about pinch welds and lifting car.

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

1- that's irrelevant and literally a story you read from a guy who read it somewhere else. this is like a 4th party reference.
2- the dealer in that story LOST THE CASE.

timmy0tool

iTrader: (7)

the pinch welds are the standard jacking points, but i agree they could buckle, especially more so if use one at a time. on a lift it's a different story as the car is evenly distributed across all four points. for us driveway mechanics, i jack up one side at a time giving more load to the welds. one some of my friends' cars the seams have collapsed already after repeated jack ups/downs.

i usually lift my rear end via the diff, but i heard that is bad for the diff bushings. time to invest in a personal garage lift!

sha4000

iTrader: (1)

My welds were crushed a long time ago before I realized what was happening. I'm disgusted every time I go under the car and look at them I've even thought of having them repaired if that's even possible. i still jack at the same point and then place stands under the rails.

dicer

A few years back before seeing the shop manuals, I could not believe it looking under the car for strong points to jack at there just were not many choices. The Lexus scissor jack points were obvious. For the front I jacked at the flat areas of that steel member the lower control arm braces go to at the front, that is a good stout area, back then I was very nervous about using the aluminum cross member I know how easy aluminum can crack.
I have seen other makes of cars with a similar type of cross member that were messed up and cracked from normal stress. When jacking on that aluminum cross member or the differential always use one of those rubber pads on the floor jack. If you don't have one a rubber mud flap or old rubber mat for pickup beds could substitute, just cut out the right size using a saber saw or sawzall .

As far as repairing the pinch welds when bent over, about all they can do is use a chisel and get them moved enough to use pliers on they may bend okay cold, but also may need heat then the paint gets ruined. Sorry but Lexus really goofed up using this for jacking, its what you do with cheap cars not a top quality car.
Mercedes seemed to be able to do it!
http://www.mbca.org/forum/w210-jacking-points

And notice the nice plastic part that contacts the jack point!
He sure comes close to banging that thing into his car.


This guy below, seems to know what he is talking about as far as lift points, he said he worked doing crash test stuff, and would have worked with engineers and various vehicle structures. I disagree with the welded on bolts, it should be rubber, I have never had a clean rubber pad slip, without rubber you are then ruining something and gouging or scratching or denting.