additude

I removed and cleaned my K&N filter, then re-oiled it. Reinstalled everything. I've driven the car maybe 15 miles and the engine check light is on. I suspect it may be from the oil on the filter interfering with a sensor or something.

I removed the sensor unit just behind the filter and rinsed it with Isoprophyl Alchol, put it back in, but the light is still on.

What else could be the problem? Did I clean the air sensor just behind the filter incorrectly?

Thanks for any help.

Lvangundy

It's not running funny?

Maybe the TPS got unplugged? You'd definetly noice that.

I've heard of K&N grease causing problems, but are you REALLY sure you want to use a K&N?

If you're a first generation LS owner check this out - I dyno'd K&N vs. stock -

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...threadid=63761

Lextreme

That is interesting. I would trace all the wire harness that you unplug while you were doing the project. How does that car idle?

additude

The car runs fine. Idles smooth without a problem.

I've had the K&N in it for a year...maybe more. But there is no problem with idle or performance. The only reason I knew the engine light was on was because I saw it, not that I felt any problems.

Thanks.

Lextreme

Try to unplug the negative cable on the battery for one hour and see if the light still comes on.

additude

I took the LS over to Autozone and the guy found 2 errors, 2 oxygen sensors not reading correctly. He said they were working, just nor reading correctly. I think the error value was PO330 and PO340 (something close to that). I disconnected the negative battery cables and the check engine light went out and stayed out for 32 miles. Then it came back on again. I disconnected the negative battery lead again. I will see if the light comes back on in about the same number of miles.

If so, I guess the O2 sensors need to be changed.

Is this a difficult job? or expensive one to do? Can I replace the sensors myself?

Thanks for all the help.

spxChrome

After completing repairs, diagnostic code stored in memory can be cleared by removing DOME fuse for 10 seconds or more. Probally won't help you much since disconnecting the battery does the same thing and you have already tried that.

Oxygen Sensor
Front OEM# 8946550010 $129.23
Rear OEM# 8946550050 $148.73

Labor depends on how many and which ones you replace.

1 hour for the front 1 or 2
2 hours for 1 rear
3 hours for both rear

Lextreme

Actually, the secondary O2 sensors are much easier to replace than the primary sensors. Email me i know a place where you can get great deal on new OEM parts. lextreme@lextreme.com

additude

I think my problem was a coincidence with my cleaning the K&N filter.

One thing that happened and may also help with diagnostics. Someone may have a better idea than replacing the O2 sensors.

I Have a performance ignition in the car. 2 Jacobs ICE packs plus Magnecor wires. I installed them myself and they worked great for 15 months. But, on the highway, about 30 miles from home, one of the ICE packs went bad (out of warranty). Unfortunately I was driving in a huge sleet storm here in NC. The car was still running on one ICE pack, albeit only 4 cylinders. I managed to drive it home. I hooked in the stock ignition the next day which was a re-rout of 2 ignition wires on the passenger side. Car started and ran great. A fair amount of white smoke from the exhaust for awhile. I guess cleaning out the gas that didn't get burned when the ignition went out.

So, does anyone think that the sensors may be fouled and if I keep driving it they will eventually clean out? Or is it a lost cause, just go ahead and replace them. Or is cleaning them an option?

The Autozone guy said they were reading, just not reading correctly. Do they come out with a wrench? or is this a cut and weld job?

Thanks for all your help.