blkstealthpaid4

is this task hard to do on a 95?I havnt jacked it up yet to see the wear.Oil change place told me.Ebay have them for about $65

python

iTrader: (4)

not the same year but...
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls4...t-coupler.html
of course no follow up by the op which defeats the whole purpose of these forums

blkstealthpaid4

Don't you hate that?
Good lead though

python

iTrader: (4)

u don't even know how much that irritates me..c it all the time which is why I don't get involved in a lot of the threads anymore...

blkstealthpaid4

They get what they want and freaking leave us hanging.I remember when my car wouldn't start, I just didn't know what to check.When I fixed it with an ebay crank sensor, I came and reported.The same thing with my tranny, when I rebuilt it ,I came back and reported and many othger threads since 2000.

python

iTrader: (4)

I recommended some sort of star rating for those who followed up on their posts..people take time out of their day to give advice to others who are obviously having problems they have no idea how to fix. nothing more irritating than to google a symptom...read a thread in its entirety with no resolve..so I don't bother anymore

Michael3UZ

Driveshaft bushings, also know as Guibo or flex disk are worth replacing if yours are showing signs of wear... cracks or internal wires showing.

They get pretty hot under the car so do get hard over the years.

Genuine ones would be the way to go though... rather than cheaper ebay ones.

python

iTrader: (4)

any idea where to get replacement ones..im going to have mine checked soon

valex

I have a 99LS 207K miles, just replaced engine and trans mounts, was thinking to replace the driveshft flex disks and diff rear mounts, since I have exhaust dropped already and OEM parts ready .Manual says do not disconnect flex disk, when dropping driveshaft, but what are the torque specs on the flex disks?
Mine are not be horrible, but I was thinking since I already have everythig out of the way.

jaaa

What a timely post. I had my car on jack stands yesterday, thinking I might be able to just replace the forward one(just aft of the transmission mount. I got out all the bolts, but couldn't figure out how to leverage forward the driveshaft to get it out. Went to the rear figuring I could just remove the rear one to get the extra room. From what I could tell, you have to remove the rear exhaust and all the cross members so that you can remove the driveshaft, before you can get the rear bushing out. I ended up just giving up for the day as it was more work than I wanted to do and figured I would wait to do both bushings at once if I was going to the effort of dropping the exhaust and the driveshaft. For the poster who asked the torque, I believe I saw 58 foot/pounds as I was looking for a removal procedure. http://www.justanswer.com/lexus/2oj5...er-bearin.html

Personally, I think old posts with no resolution could just as well be deleted as they are nothing more than a waste of time as you do searches.

dicer

I agree about unresolved posts, good idea to get rid of them. Only problem is there is some good info in some of them from the people trying to help.

The rubber flex joints are NOT BUSHINGS, a bushing is metal or sleeve that a shaft turns in. Just look up the definition. A bushing and a bearing are pretty much the same thing.

jaaa

I never was very good at calling things by their proper name. My first go around with car forums over 7 years ago was going through the Hyundai Santa Fe forums looking for the intermittent cutout of my engine that only happened once or twice a year. I read the entire forum from the beginning to the end and only found one post that described my symptoms(turned out to be a bum CPS sensor). What struck me as I read through every post was that in at least about 40% of the posts there was no final resolution as to what happened to all those cars and what ultimately fixed them. Most of those posts were counterproductive and just a waste of time to read. I've made a point of trying to help others, because I have repaired countless problems over the years with the help of these car forums.

dicer

And a good reason why when some one says "just search it" that is also a worthless post. You can search for hours and find nothing that resolves the problem.

valex

Manual says loosen 45mm adjusting nut (I dont have two 45mm wrenches, planning on using vice grips and channel locks or adjustible wrench, shouldn't be too tight, 37 ft/lb)

I guess the adjusting nut collapses the front and rear shafts, is that correct?

Once the floor crossmember braces removed, nuts at diff and transmission removed, the manual says support the driveshaft (two man job) and remove center bearing bracket bolts, push driveshaft forward and then lower carefully diff side down first, keeping both shafts in a straight line.

Will making watchmarks ensures the driveshaft stays balanced?

I have been busy working and my LS has been on stands for over a week now! All this time I have been letting my transmission drain - will be replacing pan (overtorqued drain bolt and meesed up threads long time ago, plus couple big dents in it too).

valex

99LS 207K miles, changed prop shaft flex joints/disks and rear diff mounts as well as diff "arms" cushinns yesterday with a help of a friend. We used a set for bearing pressing to push out and press in the rear diff bushings with a bolt from a bearing splitter set, since the bolt in bearing pressing set is too thick, doesn't fit through the bushing hole. Had to be a bit creative, but beats buying $500 SST! The rear diff bushings weren't hard to press out, nothing like a bearing.
Both rear diff bushings and prop shaft flex disks had very light cracking, nothing horrible, but I decided to do it now, since already had all rear suspension out and exhaust out.
The job is not hard, just long, taking everything out of the way takes time.
Haven't driven it yet, waiting on trasmission drain bolt Will post a few pics later.