UPPER CONTOL ARMS - Useful info
#1
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
UPPER CONTOL ARMS - Useful info
I've decided to start a new thread because I think this may help some members who are confronted with replacing balljoints and tierod ends. After researching and using some common sense, I figured out there is an overlooked flaw with how these parts are installed and why they "may" fail prematurely. I'll just copy and paste what I had replied to another member, see if if makes any sense or if there is something you want to add.
jollyczar you are absolutely spot on, if you view the UCA's from each co., Moog, Medvotech, acdelco, and etc., you will see that they all have the exact same design and look EXACTLY alike. I was fooled by Medvotech because their photos looked different from the rest and they have a lifetime guarantee, but guess what? I just received them today and they look IDENTICAL to Moog, ACDelco, Dorman, and the rest of them. I was angry because they looked nothing like the photo and discription they'd post on the Rockauto website. I am now convinced that they all are made in Taiwan, same UCA but different Co. names (and prices) stamped on them. They may had in the past been made in Canada or somewhere else, but not anymore. So I caution members that you may think you're getting something different or better than the rest, but I don't think that's the case. Your choice is the dealer or made-in-Taiwan aftermarket. I don't even think Toyota makes them anymore in Japan after 5 yrs of each model year production. Here's another valuable tip, if you install them yourselves, make sure you thoroughly grease the boot surface that makes contact with the steering knuckle for BOTH uca and lbj, as well as the tierods, failure to do so will prematurely tear up your boots and ultimately the joints. Maintaining the boots are extremely important on these parts because they rub back and forth on metal surfaces every time you turn the steering wheel. I've lightly sanded the metal surfaces, cleaned and coated them with silicone spray before I installed the jts and boots with ample amount of grease between the boot and metal surface. I hope this helps. Good luck.
LS400FAN
jollyczar you are absolutely spot on, if you view the UCA's from each co., Moog, Medvotech, acdelco, and etc., you will see that they all have the exact same design and look EXACTLY alike. I was fooled by Medvotech because their photos looked different from the rest and they have a lifetime guarantee, but guess what? I just received them today and they look IDENTICAL to Moog, ACDelco, Dorman, and the rest of them. I was angry because they looked nothing like the photo and discription they'd post on the Rockauto website. I am now convinced that they all are made in Taiwan, same UCA but different Co. names (and prices) stamped on them. They may had in the past been made in Canada or somewhere else, but not anymore. So I caution members that you may think you're getting something different or better than the rest, but I don't think that's the case. Your choice is the dealer or made-in-Taiwan aftermarket. I don't even think Toyota makes them anymore in Japan after 5 yrs of each model year production. Here's another valuable tip, if you install them yourselves, make sure you thoroughly grease the boot surface that makes contact with the steering knuckle for BOTH uca and lbj, as well as the tierods, failure to do so will prematurely tear up your boots and ultimately the joints. Maintaining the boots are extremely important on these parts because they rub back and forth on metal surfaces every time you turn the steering wheel. I've lightly sanded the metal surfaces, cleaned and coated them with silicone spray before I installed the jts and boots with ample amount of grease between the boot and metal surface. I hope this helps. Good luck.
LS400FAN
#2
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (1)
that is a good tip on prevention, but time and mileage will affect them also, and the winters in Wis, are harder (wet) than the heat and grime down here, but they will have to be replaced at some point.... either way. I dont see any way to keep a 15-20 year old car OEM.. but it is a pleasant thought..
#3
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
that is a good tip on prevention, but time and mileage will affect them also, and the winters in Wis, are harder (wet) than the heat and grime down here, but they will have to be replaced at some point.... either way. I dont see any way to keep a 15-20 year old car OEM.. but it is a pleasant thought..
#4
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (1)
Keep up the good work...
this was the real colors of my 55 Olds light blue and robins egg blue..
#5
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
yes yes yes, the 55 olds 88 I bought new and hit 120 going home, a favorite, also my red 39 Ford pickup had a chevy engine in it... Wish I still had it and my model A I restored (took 7 years to complete). and the 59 Bonneville was awesome in its day. I have had 12 LS400's, I drove one in 1996 and just knew I had to have one.. nothing since, we now get them two at a time.. the quality was so good..... I had my own repair shop for 30 years (until 96), and now have been retired 18 years... turned 80 in june. drove a 430 and just liked my 400's the best..
Keep up the good work...
this was the real colors of my 55 Olds light blue and robins egg blue..
Keep up the good work...
this was the real colors of my 55 Olds light blue and robins egg blue..
LS400FAN
#6
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (1)
Thanks for the update on UCA's. The available solutions has been changing over the years. I've been keeping an eye on it since I know I'll need them one day. But not yet, I inspected them recently and they're fine.
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