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Old 08-06-14, 03:26 PM   #1
Boggsy
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Default Coolant Level Dash Light

Year: 1992
Model: UCF10R

Problem:

The coolant level dash light has come on and is very persistent, car also seems sluggish after warmup and smells very rich. I originally had green coolant in for a while not knowing it would affect the radiator I have since flushed it with red and completely topped up. I have also replaced the coolant temperature switch and the sender beside it. I reset the ECU by pulling out the fuses and removing the battery overnight however the light comes back on the dash within 5 minutes. Is there anywhere else I should be looking such as a leaking ECU or another switch I've missed? Cheers.
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Old 08-06-14, 03:58 PM   #2
billydpowe
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read your stickey's and look for "trunk hinge wiring problems" it does weird things
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Old 08-07-14, 02:48 AM   #3
Boggsy
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Checked it all out none of the points are stressed and still looks new
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Old 08-07-14, 04:47 AM   #4
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I think that leaves you with: http://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls40...capacitor.html
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Old 08-07-14, 08:32 PM   #5
Kram
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boggsy View Post
Year: 1992
Model: UCF10R

Problem:

The coolant level dash light has come on and is very persistent, car also seems sluggish after warmup and smells very rich. I originally had green coolant in for a while not knowing it would affect the radiator I have since flushed it with red and completely topped up. I have also replaced the coolant temperature switch and the sender beside it. I reset the ECU by pulling out the fuses and removing the battery overnight however the light comes back on the dash within 5 minutes. Is there anywhere else I should be looking such as a leaking ECU or another switch I've missed? Cheers.
From what I can tell by your light on the dash,you need to fill the reserve tank up to at least half way when hot remember there is only 1 lb of pressure in the system when hot so very little fliude movememt well take place in normal use.as far as the temp sender goes most of the time the sensor you need to replace has not been done because the one that goes bad is down in the valley of the motor and hard to get at so it can be missed .The ecu sender is the problem because of the rich small you get when hot .the ecu thinks the motor is still cold and has retarded the timing and in some cases the cold start injecter is left on.The ecu is very dependent on the temp sender for alot of info all the way though the heat up cycle,if at any point in the heat cycle the sender stops working you well loose gas mileage and poor operation of the motor.The sender you need to replace is hard to acess,you need to remove the passanger coil and you well find the sender down in the valley,the hard part of the removal I found was getting the wires off the sender after you do this you need to use a 7/8 socket to remove the sender and when you install the new one you need to glue the copper seal ring on the sender base so it will not fall off on install. Hope this helps you.
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