nthach

How involved it is to pull the dash out of our cars? I found a dashboard in great shape at the junkyard and I'm going back tomorrow to pull it.

randal

The entire dash? It will take some work.

http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/elect...ntcluster.html
http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/audio/headunit.html

deanshark

I just took mine out to change my heater core and it was a PITA. Although, you wouldn't have to go near as far in as I did. It takes those 2 tutorials that randal posted plus MUCH more. After the radio comes out the center console needs to come out so dash can slide backwards. The rear heat ducts I just bent them out and back in and used duct tape.

Drivers side
Steering wheel, column cover, and switch assembly on steering column, 2 lower panels, fuse panel, key cylinder pad, hood and parking brake levers, instrument cluster and trim.

Passenger side
2 Lower panels, disconnect air bag wire harness (inside glove compartment left side) glove compartment box and door, air bag, ECU for the ABS.

Both sides
Front pillar garnish (trim over doors), heating ducts (most just fall out) electrical connecters (I think there was 21 to get that part of the dash out)

The dash itself has 9 bolts and 1 nut, there is 5 clips that hold the top of the dash near winshield, pull the dash back and they come right out. The shift lever will need to be pulled back so the dash will clear it. That's what I can remember from doing it a couple weeks ago. I had to go in much farther (1 1/2 more days work) to get the heater core out. Actually it's not too bad as long as you can twist and bend, It takes the normal size sockets. Don't forget different size extensions.

tomtheslac

If you are pulling from a yard, bring a 12v battery and something to jump the steering column motors. You will not get stuff out in one piece without getting the steering wheel out of the way. Just jump the terminals on the tilt and telescoping motors...



You should not have to force anything, and it all should come out clean. And grab the wiring harness too. Those go for $200 on ebay, and whatever else looks clean..hell even grab the climate control and the radio for the LCD's.

deanshark

After seeing that pic I now realize you wouldn't have to worry about the rear heat vents. I needed to so I could get the heater assembly out. I also forgot that the steering column needed to be tilted down. If you don't bring a battery you can always just unbolt the whole steering column and drop it. It's 4 bolts, either 17, 18, or 19 mm.

tomtheslac; Why did you take yours out? I see your dash brace and brackets are a rust color, is that the color or is it actual rust? Mine was silver, that's why I ask. Oh the memories of twisting. Atleast you had a garage, I did mine in the snow and 30*.

nthach

can I use an UPS battery to power the steering column motors? Also, the passenger seat in the donor car is in good shape - with a fixable crack. but it's gonna be a PITA unless I bring a jump pack...

deanshark

If you drop the column with the 4 bolts I mentioned you wont have to lomer the tilt or take off the steering wheel. I think that would be easier anyway, less work.

67rivdog

iTrader: (1)

Did it happen to have the instrument panel? Or were you needing that part as well?

I'm looking for a replacement tachometer needle. I read that the speedo needle can be swapped in place instead (just changing the circuit board on it).

I'm in Sac, where in Cali is the car?

Thanks,

Frank

tomtheslac

light surface rust, 20 years of farts and spilled coffee...not to mention snow and salt
I had to pull it because the dash harness burned when the cig lighter fuse did not pop. Just about burned down the car..you can see the burn marks around the ashtray area. Never thought about dropping the whole column though, would the wiring be long enough? I had a hell of a time because the cluster and surround would not come out with the steering wheel in the way.

nthach

The car is in Oakland but the gauge cluster is in bits and pieces. Tomorrow I'm coming back with a dash and steering wheel. I got the passenger seat and I need to get some leatherique to steep it in.

sdls

yeah that will work perfectly.

nthach

Ok, the harness behind the gauge cluster seems like a PITA to unclip. Otherwise, it's almost home free.

deanshark

Yes the wiring on the steering column is long enough if ya drop the column, plus the wires are just clipped on the side if ya need to remove them. If ya do it that way you need to take off the spring for the brake pedal. I had the manual so it made it ALOT easier knowing exactly what had to come out and in what order. It wouldn't tilt out until I took those side trim peices out though.

nthach; Like tom said, grab everything you can with it. Most of the wire harness stays on the dash and you should just screw the guage cluster, heater controls and whatever else you can back onto the dash before you bring it up and pay for it. You get all those extra parts for free that you can sell, or keep for spares. It's a hell of a job, aint it?

nthach

I came back to pick and pull today. Me and my dad got the dash out of the car in just over an hour.

Time for a little 303 on it, a trip to the Lexus dealer for a broken clip, and the wiring harness has been hacked already, I'll just use mine.

I will say a Ridgid/Dremel/Fein multi-tool with the ratchet attachment, a flex 10mm socket and a long extension, a Snap-On Dual 80 ratchet, and a small 12V battery with some jumper leads will help you out. And taking a few yoga classes will definitely help you for flexibility in this project

gemigniani

nthach, I'm curious to know how you fixed the crack in the leather? Did you use 303 or leatherique or both (or neither) to fix the crack? Thanks for any info you can provide as I was not aware that cracks in leather could be fixed.

Also, if you don't mind telling, how did you access the bolts that hold the front seat to the car in the junkyard considering the power seats won't move in a junkyard car because of no battery and electricity?