LS - 1st and 2nd Gen (1990-2000) Discussion topics related to the 1990 - 2000 Lexus LS400

Just installed new pads and rotors.

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 07-13-14, 05:23 PM
  #16  
python
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (4)
 
python's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: ca
Posts: 1,840
Received 26 Likes on 24 Posts
Default

Pulsating brakes start with a localized zone of high temperature in the rotor. The most common cause is uneven friction deposition on the rotor. At colder operating temperatures (less than 400 degrees), brake pads work with abrasive friction, just like sandpaper on wood. At higher temperatures, brake pads transfer a thin layer of material to the iron rotor surface. As the rotor heats up, the primary friction force changes from abrasive friction to adherent friction, i.e. pad material is applied to the rotor and simultaneously sheared and the broken chemical bonds cause a resistant friction force. Most racing pads work using adherent friction, which explains why racing pads don't really stop well under cold conditions or normal street driving.

An example of an uneven friction deposit is pad resin glazing. If you get your rotors hot, the resin from the pad will liquify and glaze on the rotor surface. As the pads rub on the elevated glazed surface, it gets a lot hotter, and the heat is localized in just one area of the rotor. When the temperature exceeds 1150F, the cell structure of the iron changes into hard brittle spots called cementite. These heat spots don't wear down like the normal iron material surrounding it. So the spots become elevated above the rotor surface, and you start to feel brake pulsation. You can try to turn down the rotor, but the cementite nodule is often deeper than the cut, so the brake pulsation just comes back after a few weeks.
Old 07-13-14, 05:24 PM
  #17  
python
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (4)
 
python's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: ca
Posts: 1,840
Received 26 Likes on 24 Posts
Default

i don't know what else to do to disprove u..we have gone over this before shmee
Old 07-13-14, 06:46 PM
  #18  
Shmee
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (3)
 
Shmee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Victoria, BC. Canada
Posts: 1,471
Received 5 Likes on 4 Posts
Default

So what of the copy&pasted ebay quote disproves what I said?
If you go on to read the rest of that article, it agrees with many of the things I stated earlier, so i'm not sure what or how it disproves me.


warp is just another word for distortion like bend or twist. it does not relate to any one specific type of distortion which is why it is used interchangeably in colloquial use when speaking of brake rotors.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/att...3&d=1360837373
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/att...4&d=1360837373


I'm not denying material transfer causes pedal pulsation or that it may be the primary issue at hand, simply that any overall deformation of the rotor to a state were the rotor faces are parallel to each other but shifted at a single (or possibly minor double) angle away from parallel to the hub face, can be classified as a warp.
Old 07-13-14, 07:50 PM
  #19  
python
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (4)
 
python's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: ca
Posts: 1,840
Received 26 Likes on 24 Posts
Default

either way u look at it the rotors don't warp..period,end of story and argument
quote from you
rotors can and do warp, as can be seen with, thermal imaging, dual dial indicators or even placing rotors against each other.
its simply not true
http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...nd-other-myths
believe what u want..it makes no difference to me what u believe to be true.
Old 07-13-14, 08:53 PM
  #20  
Shmee
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (3)
 
Shmee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Victoria, BC. Canada
Posts: 1,471
Received 5 Likes on 4 Posts
Default

Obviously it does matter!

Lack of the Marlboro man doesn't give you the vent needed! :P
Old 07-13-14, 09:35 PM
  #21  
PureDrifter
BahHumBug

iTrader: (10)
 
PureDrifter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: California
Posts: 23,918
Received 94 Likes on 86 Posts
Default

both of you cool it, pose your arguments and lose the jabs at eachother. let the readers decide.
Old 07-14-14, 04:06 PM
  #22  
rick1987
Pole Position
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
rick1987's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: MA
Posts: 231
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 5 Posts
Default

Is it possible you didn't break them in correctly?

I was actually a bit worried when I went to do it.

I drove to around 55 then stood on the brakes until about 10mph, then floored it back to 55 and repeated 5 times.

Then I let them cool for a bit and did it again from 40 to almost a slow roll. 5 times.

The entire time I made sure I did not let the car stop, from what the directions said, when the pads heat up they will deposit resin/material to the rotor, and you don't want the rotor to stop and have a uneven layer deposited.



After driving around for a couple days, these brakes brake hard! I'm not even sure if I'm using the rear brakes anymore.

And they grab even harder when they heat up. I have to get used to it.
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
richylee
Suspension and Brakes
6
11-26-11 01:21 AM
blakkazz30
SC430 - 2nd Gen (2001-2010)
3
11-24-11 08:54 PM
truenoboy
Suspension and Brakes
8
05-19-09 06:27 AM
OneGuyInCA
RX - 1st Gen (1999-2003)
8
03-14-08 10:11 PM
HaryGahtoe
LS - 1st and 2nd Gen (1990-2000)
8
02-04-08 11:02 PM



Quick Reply: Just installed new pads and rotors.



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 01:54 AM.