LS - 1st and 2nd Gen (1990-2000) Discussion topics related to the 1990 - 2000 Lexus LS400

Alternator questions

Old 06-01-14, 07:15 PM
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Caniac14
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Default Alternator questions

So I spent all day yesterday cleaning my car and I drive an hour and a half to a car show today and my car essentially dies in the parking lot literally right after I park and I am rolling my windows down. They just started to get slow and and I see lights on my dash out the corner of my eye Battery light is on. I try to turn the car on and nothing. There was literally NO indication of this happening. No battery light or anything during the ride there.

Someone is nice enough to give me some tools to take my battery out and drive me to advanced to get her recharged. After it charges (battery is fine) I get the battery in the car and drive up to advanced again. The battery light came on almost immediately. They test it and the alternators isn't doing anything. So my alternator needs to be replaced.

I have a 1996 model and was wondering if this is accurate for my model.
http://www.lextreme.com/alternator.html

I know I still would have to take off the air intake thingy off the fun and such but is that guide accurate? If so I hope to get an alternator soon and tackle the job myself. Also, since I have a 380c compressor should I invest in a bigger alternator or would a stock one be fine?

EDIT: for those who might suggest why my alt went out, it wasn't a leaky power steering pump. I replaced that as soon as I bought the car. It may have attributed to it though.
Old 06-01-14, 07:48 PM
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Yamae
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Originally Posted by Caniac14
for those who might suggest why my alt went out, it wasn't a leaky power steering pump. I replaced that as soon as I bought the car. It may have attributed to it though.
Let me confirm what you wrote. Did the car have a genuine Denso alternator? Or was it replaced before to a non-Denso one?

I found many remanufactured alternators fail very quickly in summer. All of them had failed regulators which were after-market regulators. Denso's genuine regulators alone cost more than $100 and many remanufactures don't want to use those. Denso's one has a big heatsink but others don't and those often can't withstand the summer heat.

Last edited by Yamae; 06-01-14 at 07:56 PM.
Old 06-02-14, 01:16 AM
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Could be numerous reasons why it gave up. Running a 20-30Amp compressor on top of a small sound system upgrade is getting close to the max 80Amp output of the factory alternator. If you have been running you compressors and stereo a lot with most of the other accessories (lights, A/C, wipers, etc) on at the same time you could easily be beyond that 80Amp output.


I'm running a MECHMAN 320Amp alternator, besides an audible but quiet high pitched noise, it's a beast! 167Amp max output at idle is more than comfortable to maintain my twin 480s, stereo and ALL my accessories at once.
Old 06-02-14, 04:11 AM
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Caniac14
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Tbh Yamae I am unsure. I bought the car a few months ago bone stock in great condition other than a leaking power steering pump so I don't have a clue as to what alternator is on the car atm. The car just hit 240k on the way to the meet so it could be factory. Thanks for the info though, I'll be sure to get a denso alternator when I get one. Hopefully that $150~ price they gave me at Advanced was for a denso one. lol.

Good god Shmee how much did that beast set you back? lol.
And other than the single 380c compressor I have the stock sound system and I hardly ever turn up the bass to hear the factory sub. Tbh I love the sound of my exhaust more ^_^
I do have 100watt 9003, 100watt 9006 and 65watt 9005 bulbs but I never really use those anyway.
Old 06-02-14, 04:18 AM
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Damn. The $150~ one is this one.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/t...99%7CL3*15587#

And the denso is freaking double the price
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/d...999%7CL3*15587

If I have a genuine denso on the car right now would it be better to have mine rebuilt than buying a new one?
A place really close rebuilds them for $50 - 100 on average.
Old 06-02-14, 05:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Caniac14
Damn. The $150~ one is this one.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/t...99%7CL3*15587#

And the denso is freaking double the price
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/d...999%7CL3*15587

If I have a genuine denso on the car right now would it be better to have mine rebuilt than buying a new one?
A place really close rebuilds them for $50 - 100 on average.
I just had mine repaired, bought a denso rebuilt off ebay, 100. it DID NOT have a denso regulator in it. had a denso VR put in, now I am good...

MAKE SURE YOU GET A DENSO REGULATOR.

Last edited by billydpowe; 06-02-14 at 05:08 AM.
Old 06-02-14, 06:59 AM
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Local rebuild by someone with a good local reputation should be good.... if you already have the Denso.
Old 06-02-14, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by etex
Local rebuild by someone with a good local reputation should be good.... if you already have the Denso.
Yeah I've had three different people who don't know each other all refer me to the same shop so I am assuming they must be. I'm just hoping that the brushes are the bad part and not the regulator. I'm told if the brushes just need to be replaced that will be like $20 rebuild but if it's the regulator, since I need to make sure it's a denso one, it will cost $100 or more.

ALSO, can anyone confirm that this how to is good for my 1996?

http://www.lextreme.com/alternator.html
Old 06-02-14, 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Yamae
Let me confirm what you wrote. Did the car have a genuine Denso alternator? Or was it replaced before to a non-Denso one?

I found many remanufactured alternators fail very quickly in summer. All of them had failed regulators which were after-market regulators. Denso's genuine regulators alone cost more than $100 and many remanufactures don't want to use those. Denso's one has a big heatsink but others don't and those often can't withstand the summer heat.
I kept my old OEM (Denso) alternator and I'd like to rebuild it myself. However, where to buy Denso voltage regulator? Does it have a part number or some other thing I could go by?
Old 06-02-14, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Caniac14
Yeah I've had three different people who don't know each other all refer me to the same shop so I am assuming they must be. I'm just hoping that the brushes are the bad part and not the regulator. I'm told if the brushes just need to be replaced that will be like $20 rebuild but if it's the regulator, since I need to make sure it's a denso one, it will cost $100 or more.

ALSO, can anyone confirm that this how to is good for my 1996?

http://www.lextreme.com/alternator.html
the denso voltage regulator # 2770050030, $135.45 with CL discount... this is at Sewell.

PS, we took mine out from the bottom, under the car.
Old 06-02-14, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by billydpowe
the denso voltage regulator # 2770050030, $135.45 with CL discount... this is at Sewell.

PS, we took mine out from the bottom, under the car.
I would make sure the regulator is the bad part though. From what I was told today by the rebuild shop I am going to take mine to after I get it off, the regulator is hardly ever the part that goes bad.

And yeah, the bottom is the only way to do it from what I have read. Trying to take it out from the top requires removing the power steering pump and other crap it looks like. I think the only work from the top needed would be taking off the pulley and belt. Since you have already removed yours can you confirm the how to link I posted is a good source for taking off the alternator?

Last edited by Caniac14; 06-02-14 at 12:04 PM.
Old 06-02-14, 12:13 PM
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yep that link works and you can take the alt to a shop/store and they can bench test it, most are free..
Old 06-02-14, 06:50 PM
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My alternator came out from the top on my 96. It won't just drop out the bottom around the swaybar like it does on the 98+
Old 06-02-14, 07:42 PM
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Just pulled mine out on my 98 I actually pulled it out from the top too lol
Old 06-02-14, 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Caniac14
I'm just hoping that the brushes are the bad part and not the regulator. I'm told if the brushes just need to be replaced that will be like $20 rebuild but if it's the regulator, since I need to make sure it's a denso one, it will cost $100 or more.]
According to a local shop owner who rebuilts alternators a lot, those damaged alternators caused by the leaking P/S oil often need to replace slip rings as well as brushes. Because the slip rings are also damaged by the oil badly often. In order to replace slip rings, you have to replace the whole shaft assembely and the total cost becomes close to a new alternator.

You have to be careful not to have the leaking P/S oil for long time. The shop owner says, "Fix the leaking P/S oil within a week or you will ruin the alternator badly and can't be rebuilt easily".

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