Question about changing cam seals on 98 with VVT-i
05-15-14, 09:57 PM
#47
Driver
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Kansas
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I removed the drivers side first....replaced the oil seal on the cam. Then put it back in the engine and bolted it down. But it was not the final bolt down.
Then moved on to the passenger side. I treated the cams well but was not overly careful outside of keeping them level.
Once the cams are out because of the vvti....in particular.
I worked on a bench with towels on it...and I believe if you dropped the cam with the vvti.....that would be bad!
Then moved on to the passenger side. I treated the cams well but was not overly careful outside of keeping them level.
Once the cams are out because of the vvti....in particular.
I worked on a bench with towels on it...and I believe if you dropped the cam with the vvti.....that would be bad!
05-15-14, 10:00 PM
#48
Yes the alignment was spot on. I put several marks with whiteout all over the place and even on the cams so I would know where everything was at before I remove them. I already moved the drivers side cam some to try to get the service hole in position but it's not too far from where it was at originally. I'll take some pics of the markings tomorrow and post back. Like i said I have to get the correct seals ordered tomorrow so I wont be finishing this job until next week,
05-15-14, 10:01 PM
#49
Driver
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Kansas
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sounds like you have to check your alignment. Be absolutely sure. Granted you can pull the cams replace the seals and then concern yourself with regaining perfect alignment
But I was very fanatical about checking alignment. I even bolted it back up and put the belt on and rotated the complete engine.
But I was very fanatical about checking alignment. I even bolted it back up and put the belt on and rotated the complete engine.
05-15-14, 10:08 PM
#52
Driver
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Kansas
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It took me a few days to do. And I was very nervous along the way.....but everything turned out fine..
If you have any more questions let me know! I hope I was able to help. ...I did my repair awhile ago....it is still my daily driver and I live in la.........I feel like it has many miles left in it
If you have any more questions let me know! I hope I was able to help. ...I did my repair awhile ago....it is still my daily driver and I live in la.........I feel like it has many miles left in it
05-16-14, 01:01 PM
#55
UPDATE
I'm posting a lot and taking lots of pictures with the ideal of doing some kind of how-to thread. Anyway I had to go to the dealer and pay the outrageous price of $60 for the correct cam seals. Even if I bought them online from Sewell or Lexusof Atl they still would have been $50+ with shipping and having to wait for them to arrive. I briefly looked at the aftermarket ones on Ebay and Rockauto that were Timken and Felpro branded but quickly crossed that out. This job is stressful enough without having to maybe go back in to put OEM seals in if those did not hold up. I also got Toyota red for $28.
Well I got the courage up and turned the exhaust cam on the drivers side to get the markings and the service hole lined up. It gave some resistance and actually snapped back on the last half turn so I had to move it back forward again. Talk about nervous! But that is done and I hope it's Ok since there is no turning back now. So I loosened all the bearing cap bolts in the sequence that the manual tell you to do, then removed them but ran into another issue. When I tried to lift the front bearing cap which is the one in back of the pulleys and the OCV ( Oil Control Valve ) goes into the cam seal was stuck to the bearing cap on top. You'll see what I'm talking about in the pics. So since the seal is stuck to the bearing cap when I try removing the cap it also pulls the intake cam up with it. I tried holding the cam down with the wrench while pulling on the cap to see if I could separate them but it was no go so I left it the for the time being since it was starting rain.
Some drops of water got on the cams from the slight drizzle before I closed the hood. Sort of like that annoying mist that gets on your windshield when it's not really raining yet. I hope that wont be an issue.
I'm posting a lot and taking lots of pictures with the ideal of doing some kind of how-to thread. Anyway I had to go to the dealer and pay the outrageous price of $60 for the correct cam seals. Even if I bought them online from Sewell or Lexusof Atl they still would have been $50+ with shipping and having to wait for them to arrive. I briefly looked at the aftermarket ones on Ebay and Rockauto that were Timken and Felpro branded but quickly crossed that out. This job is stressful enough without having to maybe go back in to put OEM seals in if those did not hold up. I also got Toyota red for $28.
Well I got the courage up and turned the exhaust cam on the drivers side to get the markings and the service hole lined up. It gave some resistance and actually snapped back on the last half turn so I had to move it back forward again. Talk about nervous! But that is done and I hope it's Ok since there is no turning back now. So I loosened all the bearing cap bolts in the sequence that the manual tell you to do, then removed them but ran into another issue. When I tried to lift the front bearing cap which is the one in back of the pulleys and the OCV ( Oil Control Valve ) goes into the cam seal was stuck to the bearing cap on top. You'll see what I'm talking about in the pics. So since the seal is stuck to the bearing cap when I try removing the cap it also pulls the intake cam up with it. I tried holding the cam down with the wrench while pulling on the cap to see if I could separate them but it was no go so I left it the for the time being since it was starting rain.
Some drops of water got on the cams from the slight drizzle before I closed the hood. Sort of like that annoying mist that gets on your windshield when it's not really raining yet. I hope that wont be an issue.
Last edited by sha4000; 10-18-14 at 10:35 AM. Reason: Resize
05-16-14, 03:54 PM
#57
I've resized the pics since they were taking up tooooo much space in the thread. Why doesn't the sight automatically resize them like on LOC??? I just noticed it. Anyway I've been cleaning up the various parts of the engine and here are before and after pics of the throttle body. It kind of had dried up oil or something on the surfaces. There was some built up carbon but not alot. Most of the stuff I could just wipe off. How would oil make it's way into the throttle to the degree in the pics??/
Last edited by sha4000; 05-17-14 at 08:02 AM. Reason: Resize
05-16-14, 04:12 PM
#59
Driver
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Kansas
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The cam shaft...lobe ....is a little tough to get off. It should have toyota fipg....which is really good stuff..sticks to metal really well. I used a small flat head and rubber hammer to get it off.