Sc0pe

iTrader: (1)

Kingsoup

Love those trailer pics! that dual axle is pretty beefy!
24lbs is nothing on a car thats heavy like this anyways, the versatility you'll get from a hitch is worth it.
It didn't look too pretty on my STi and was a bit of weight, but you won't notice 99.9% of the time anyways but you sure will notice being able to tow a trailer!

dveneman

Ok Trailer hitch guys. I am a believer now and ordered the Curt hitch, "European ball mount" and cheesy looking wiring kit from Amazon.
I will post some pics when I install it.

Kingsoup

Good on yah! you won't regret it! I flat towed a 3100lb Supra with the Celsior once as well, no problem, shes a strong car with a high rated tow, what you can do with a 5x8 utility trailer is pretty impressive compared to the non folding down rear seats in the LS, hee hee )

Sc0pe

iTrader: (1)

You should post some details on how you accomplished this I've been considering getting a 1LS to strip down and turn into a race car, but the 3400lb weight is kind of unnerving (granted I'd strip it down, but it's still a heavy car).

sha4000

iTrader: (1)

Damn I want one now. I have lots of stuff that I move around and with all the money I've put into this car at the very least it can work for me lol. How deep was the install if you did it yourself?

Kansas

If I remember correctly, there are only four bolts holding the hitch to the car ... drop the mufflers, hold the hitch to the car and reinstall the muffler bolts. Installing the trailer light wiring harness is more complicated than installing the hitch since it needs to be of the type that is powered from the car battery through what is essentially a relay in the trailer light harness kit.

I had my mechanic run the power wire out of an ABS hole in the trunk underneath the car to the engine compartment fuse box where, on the left side of the fuse box, there is an "hot" terminal perfect for powering trailer lights and other accessories. I don't know where exactly the mechanic routed the power cable under the car but I can't see it and it has worked fine for over 10 years. Be sure to use on inline fuse where you connect the power cable to the terminal by the fuse box.

dveneman

Jim wrote:
"I don't know where exactly the mechanic routed the power cable ..."
This is what I was wondering. Anyone else have an idea of a easy hot wire somewhere near the trunk where I can get 12volts?
You are right Jim, the hitch install is 20 minutes. The wiring will take hours depending on your skill level.
3 bolt on each muffler hanger remove. Install hitch under them. bolt with new longer bolts provided. Everything is all compact and tucked out of the way.

timmy0tool

iTrader: (7)

looks great. usually you tap your trailer lights off the rear brake lights then pass them through the trunk somehow.

i would use the ABS sensor wiring hole. follow your ABS sensor wiring as it goes into the trunk area, there is one on each side for each rear wheel. or you can always drill your own hole. don't forget to use a grommet.

sha4000

iTrader: (1)

Wow that does look really simple. Do you have a clear pic of how much it protrudes from the bumper?

dveneman

This is the unit Amazon recomended. It requires a "battery" wire to power the converter.

dveneman

Sha, like this?

Please excuse the phallic symbol. But it really works well for keeping the trailer level.

sha4000

iTrader: (1)

That looks good and don't worry about the phallic symbol ( I had to look that up even though I had an ideal lol ) Can't you just remove it when your not towing something?

dveneman

http://www.etrailer.com/Ball-Mounts/...FUJqfgodJIAA3g

Sure, it removes with pin and clip. Here are some of the available hitch parts

dveneman

Theis link describes why the converter is recomended. So as not to overload the factory wiring.

http://www.etrailer.com/faq-Routing-a-Power-Wire.aspx

So, any ideas for finding a heavy-ish hot terminal in the trunk area? I dont want to run a wire up to the battery. That will look mickey mouse and may get pinched or snagged.