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weird front tire wear
#16
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iTrader: (7)
generally speaking, i run air suspension too, and i align at ride height. i don't have e-level or any way to consistently get the same height after every inflate/deflate. regardless, my tire wear is even (not exactly like factory but wear is minimized) so having air suspension alone does not attribute to poor tire wear. my camber is maxed to negative all around, yet toe is to factory spec.
there has to be something else compromised; a bushing or steering rod perhaps.
in my mind, D2 coilover are in the same family of coilovers as megan, BC, ksport, any china made coilover. there is a high possibility the shocks are toast. what damping setting are you running on?
there has to be something else compromised; a bushing or steering rod perhaps.
in my mind, D2 coilover are in the same family of coilovers as megan, BC, ksport, any china made coilover. there is a high possibility the shocks are toast. what damping setting are you running on?
#17
done on an alignment rack, total toe in is .15 deg, we got the caster dialed in after my 2000 mile trip. i dont remember the exact numbers now, but we got it as close as possible to eachother, with the left being .8 degrees more positive than the right. the rigth is at 6.4 i believe so left is 7.2 by that.
im getting under it today goign to take the boots off and check inner tie rod condition.
the shocks seem fine, no pitching rolling or bouncing, very firm and controlled on bumps on the highway. D2 racing bags and struts.
the toe was the same from 2 weeks ago when it was on the rack is it was yesterday. i riase the car to get on the rack, then lower it down, then roll it as far back and forward a few times to settle the suspesnion as much as possible.
always align at the same ride heigth that i highway drive at.
im getting under it today goign to take the boots off and check inner tie rod condition.
the shocks seem fine, no pitching rolling or bouncing, very firm and controlled on bumps on the highway. D2 racing bags and struts.
the toe was the same from 2 weeks ago when it was on the rack is it was yesterday. i riase the car to get on the rack, then lower it down, then roll it as far back and forward a few times to settle the suspesnion as much as possible.
always align at the same ride heigth that i highway drive at.
I agree with the others though, it seems like there's a bushing or joint that's bad, causing movement under load and altering the angles. Often we drive the car back and forth on our alignment rack while someone watches the bushings underneath to see what moves.
Fwiw, your caster should be .5-1deg more on the RIGHT side to compensate for road crown, less caster on the right will cause a pull right usually.
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