Rear sus work this weekend
02-06-14, 01:28 PM
#6
lol quite funny indeed!
i don't have the torque specs in hand but be sure to load the suspension before torquing down on the bolts for the lower arm. what i usually do is raise the suspension up until the car barely starts coming off the jackstands, then torque the bolts. this ensures the bushings are clocked properly so they don't prematurely wear out.
i don't have the torque specs in hand but be sure to load the suspension before torquing down on the bolts for the lower arm. what i usually do is raise the suspension up until the car barely starts coming off the jackstands, then torque the bolts. this ensures the bushings are clocked properly so they don't prematurely wear out.
02-06-14, 01:33 PM
#7
lol quite funny indeed!
i don't have the torque specs in hand but be sure to load the suspension before torquing down on the bolts for the lower arm. what i usually do is raise the suspension up until the car barely starts coming off the jackstands, then torque the bolts. this ensures the bushings are clocked properly so they don't prematurely wear out.
i don't have the torque specs in hand but be sure to load the suspension before torquing down on the bolts for the lower arm. what i usually do is raise the suspension up until the car barely starts coming off the jackstands, then torque the bolts. this ensures the bushings are clocked properly so they don't prematurely wear out.
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02-08-14, 06:52 PM
#12
Turns out my plan to use the "drive-on" lift was not the best for a few reasons: first, once the arm bolts were loosened on the wheel side they could not be removed due to the minimal clearance between the mounting surface and the rim. Next, the opposite end seemed to be binded up due to the car being under load (?) and wouldn't budge. I had to switch to a 4-post lift to finish the removal/installation process - with the rear wheels removed.
I got everything back together, put it on the ground and crawled under the car to torque everything down. I kept the adjustment at 0 (same length as factory arms) for now until I decide to upgrade the wheels to a bigger size. I found an empty parking lot and got sideways and ran her up to 100 mph on the hgwy with no issues.
I got everything back together, put it on the ground and crawled under the car to torque everything down. I kept the adjustment at 0 (same length as factory arms) for now until I decide to upgrade the wheels to a bigger size. I found an empty parking lot and got sideways and ran her up to 100 mph on the hgwy with no issues.
Last edited by Hiroshi12; 02-08-14 at 07:05 PM. Reason: spelling
02-08-14, 07:00 PM
#13
Going off of a previous post I bought the 5/8" Energy Suspension rear sway bar bushings but they were way too small and barely went around the bar. When I got the factory ones out the only mark I found was a 20.0. I am assuming this is 20 mm? If it is 20mm then that would be 3 sizes up from 5/8! Seems too big, right? Maybe it's just a part#. Does anyone know, without a doubt, what the correct size is for a 98? Thanks.
