L8274Jones

LS Cowboy
The real "Key" to this is be careful and check your Key and Keyway as you do the job It is just being careful as any guy worth his tools who works on these LS 400 engines must be . Real simple logical advice as usual Cowboy. Thanks for all your help . You are really a great guy willing to share with all of us " Brave Souls" trying to take better care of Our LS400s.
Thanks for your devotion to doing the right thing as you understand it .

The Other Wild Bill (in Oregon)

dcrobira

I finally got time to finish this job (busy fixing my son's "new" 1967 Mustang).

It took some effort to get the crank cam gear off and remove the woodruff key. The key had the gear locked-up on the crank shaft and did not want to come out of the keyway. I violated a few of the "never do this" rules with crankshaft rotation and resorted to my Dremel after getting pissed.

My son and I cleaned everything then replaced the key, crank seal, water pump, idlers, TB, tensioner, and o-ring for the power steering reservoir. Filled the fluids, and it fired right up. Runs great. I been driving it the last (4) days without noticeable leaks, overheating, or other issues.

I appreciate all the support and advice. It's been a couple decades since I did any serious wrenching, and you guys kept me on target (btw, with my son's "new" Mustang, looks like I am gonna be getting my tools greasy for a while to come, and I look forward to it).


Agreed.

Bob

MGa

iTrader: (1)

I'm gonna borrow this thread since mine is a -97 SC400. It's not a VVT-i.
Has my timing belt skipped a teeth?
There is 9-10mm between the cam marks and the motor marks when the crank is at 0.

dicer

If the cam mark is behind the rotation then maybe. The cam would not be ahead if it was slipped, it would have been installed that way. With a slip the crank would always lead and the cams would be behind.

MGa

iTrader: (1)

When the cam marks are aligned the crank mark is approximately showing the number 10. Now when the crank is @ 0 the cam marks are past the motor marks.

I got rear ended and after that I got a CEL and OBD2 code telling me P0340 Camshaft position Sensor A Circuit Bank 1. The sensor has been changed and that didn't help.

dicer

The only thing I think could cause a reverse slip would be a back fire, where engine violently moves back wards rotation. If your belt looks good and was tight, it must have been miss aligned when it was last installed. Also the weights on harmonic dampers can slip and not show the correct crank angle.

MGa

iTrader: (1)

I did the timing belt, water pump etc. 4years ago and it ran fine. Now after I got rear ended I got CEL and OBD2 code saying bank 1 cam sensor or circuit. Changed the sensor and even did the ECU capasitors but car is still misfiring and revs won't go past 3000. That's when I thought to check the timing belt if it has skipped.

dicer

So did it skip? Can't really see in the pic's. A hit in the rear is not going to affect the engine. Unless they pan caked the car?
If the parts changing doesn't fix it find someone with a good quality scan tool to figure it out.
It could be a wire that broke to the sensor, it could be a connector, some times other things happen and throw an unrelated code. Did the rear end hit force a loose connector to come apart? How is the wire to the coil?
Search youtube on how to do the igniter test.

MGa

iTrader: (1)

It actually skipped one tooth at the crank. The crankshaft seal has been leaking a little bit and I think that helped the belt to skip a tooth.