python

iTrader: (4)

worked before..u did something..doesn't work now, doesn't take a rocket scientist to deduce this scenario. the only way it could be the ecu is if u shorted something out,or a voltage spike wiped it..i would get the ignitor tested also. maybe a bad repair job on the cam sensor?

stephen18

as i said before, to settle this whole ecu thing, just swap the ecu with one from a parts car. it will either fix it, or not.

but i must agree with cowboy, if the caps havent been done, it should be. especially since you have a spare ecu. caps go bad, we know this, fix it now or let it break at a more inconvenient time later. its literally a $10 insurance.


SOMETHING is making it throw a code 13.

and SOMETHING ELSE is making it not fire half the cylinders correctly.

looking at the wiring books, these are separate issues, unless the ecu is the cause.

injectors 1&7 and 6&4 are linked to fire simultaneously. i have had a toyota ECU fail where it fired some injectors way more often than it should, making the cyls too rich and drenching the plugs with fuel. it was (of course) the caps that failed in the ecu

LScowboyLS

it can be failed ECU caps on a 90-97 at any time and without any good reason as the capacitors were of a defective design (Nichicon PF (M) series) and also way past their service life of ~12 years (according to Yamae)

if you still do not understand why, if only the driver's side coil's plugs are wet, that this cannot possibly be a cam sensor, please reread my post #30 of this thread and study the associated functional diagrams until it makes sense logically to you

python

iTrader: (4)

doesn't make sense that he worked on it and all of a sudden the ecu caps blew..do the test on the ecu in yamae's post to settle this, I wouldn't just swap ecu's unless u know for a fact its the same
just to clarify I wasnt saying it was the cam sensor..if he did a bad repair job maybe a wire got shorted and and did something to the ecu

stephen18

good point. swapping a radically different ecu (say a 98 into the 94) may break something.

if the parts car is a 93 or 94 id guess hes safe. compare part #s first.

or open the 94s ecu and look for leaking caps. or the ripple test. whatever is easier

LScowboyLS

maybe, if the parts car's ECU caps are not bad, and sitting for an extended period is one thing we know is very hard on the caps, this is why junkyard ECU's definitely need new caps!

and yes, I would agree, don't go out of the ECU's year range, i.e. 90-92, 93-94, 95-97, 98-00 and even 97 is a stretch to try in a 95 or 96 because 97 is an odd year with many changes (such as security and traction control)

stephen18

i would suspect the symptoms would at least change.

dreamer1q

Ok, lets regroup please.

First, the cam sensors were not a fix, they were totally replaced.

Crank sensor was repaired, however, I am getting correct resistence on the line and the sensor.

So I am going to pull the ECU from my 94 that was running perfectly when it was towed home from the accident. I could even start it after the accident. The damage was only suspension and fender related. So this ECU should be fine. I ran the 93 less than a month ago without any issues at all.

I will swap the ECU from the 93 into the 94 and try again. As far as I can tell, the cars are identical, even in the options that they have, so this should be a direct replacement.

The ignitors have been swapped from the parts car and back to the originals without any changes.

Did I miss anything in these posts that I should be trying?

After the ECU, I have to either find the problem or it must go to a shop. I am out of time and ideas.

Anyone else have anything to add? (most frustrating tune up ever!)

python

iTrader: (4)

yes..good luck, ill be shocked if the ecu replacement solves this. keep us posted

stephen18

I agree the ECU going bad after a tune up is very unlikely, but possible.

I'm eager to know if the ecu makes a difference, and also very eager to know what the issue really is.

This has me more interested than any "reality TV" show LOL

LScowboyLS

don't forget to also swap the driver's side coil and also try a new or known good cap and rotor for the driver's side - ECU is a strong suspect, but it is by no means a lock, this is why I have provided all of the possibilities back in post #30 (and post #13)

dreamer1q

I have already swapped those parts twice now, with known good parts, but I will try it one more time when I do the ECU.

Might not happen tonight though, it is a standing 5 degrees in Nashville today. Even though I am originally from Michigan, this is too cold to mess with and the parts car is in a non heated barn.

python

iTrader: (4)

Sissy...the 9ers and packers played in colder weather last night!

dreamer1q

Ok, after braving the 4 degree weather, I pulled the ECU and the driver side coil off of my 93.

Installed both of them, and BOOM......same damn problem. Code 13 flashing in my face like a strippers who haa's. I am genuinely out of ideas at this point guys.

LiCelsior

iTrader: (32)

damn when i had code 13 in my old 93, it turned out to be out of timing and then noticed one of the caps was placed the wrong direction. fixed the timing and the cap and it ran beautifully.