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Fuel Pump change: But Gas smell started

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Old 10-29-13, 08:29 AM
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MattLS400
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Default Fuel Pump change: But Gas smell started

Members,
I have changed the fuel pump in my 1996 CELSIOR....I have used a picture, identical to the set-up in my celsior - being firstly a round alluminium plate cover followed by the tank cover with 8, 8mm bolts...

I have also attached a picture of the new gasket to which I installed.....However, after installing everything to its original state, I am getting a gas smell when the car is enclosed....Therefore, there must be somewhere that Gas fumes are escaping....

To further seal off the gas smell, I have placed silicone around the alluminium plate cover. But still the smell persists.
Attached Thumbnails Fuel Pump change: But Gas smell started-fp-007.jpg   Fuel Pump change: But Gas smell started-t2ec16h-zqe9s3sufrubs-tzd-u-60_57.jpg  
Old 10-29-13, 05:25 PM
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Yamae
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Originally Posted by MattLS400
To further seal off the gas smell, I have placed silicone around the alluminium plate cover. But still the smell persists.
What a dangerous countermeasure, you just have applied! The silicon should not be used. The chemical reaction between the silicon and the gasoline cause a swelling problem.

The leakage must be caused by the parts you used or the way you did the job. Something must be wrong. You have to review the parts and the way you did the job first. Sorry to say but you sometimes do things that should not be done without knowing what is behind them. That is common among amateurs but it is a car. Sometimes a single and a simple mistake might cause a life threatening problem.

The torque and the tightening order of 8mm bolts are also important and you have to follow the service manual.
Old 10-29-13, 06:13 PM
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Dawa
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i also wonder what tightening torque and torque pattern you used.

this is a case where over tightening of one fastener could cause problems (leaks) for the other, surrounding fasteners.

for the majority of circular parts that require torque, one should use a star pattern

unless someone has the manual or recommended torque pattern, I would do it in this pattern
Old 10-29-13, 07:38 PM
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MattLS400
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Originally Posted by Yamae
What a dangerous countermeasure, you just have applied! The silicon should not be used. The chemical reaction between the silicon and the gasoline cause a swelling problem.

The leakage must be caused by the parts you used or the way you did the job. Something must be wrong. You have to review the parts and the way you did the job first. Sorry to say but you sometimes do things that should not be done without knowing what is behind them. That is common among amateurs but it is a car. Sometimes a single and a simple mistake might cause a life threatening problem.

The torque and the tightening order of 8mm bolts are also important and you have to follow the service manual.
and thats why I placed picture #1 in there.

The silicone was placed on the outside of the ALLUMINIUM COVER...thats the cover which the guy is holding in his hand.....therefore, gasoline is in no contact with the silicone gasket-maker ......
Old 10-29-13, 07:40 PM
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MattLS400
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Originally Posted by ProperD
i also wonder what tightening torque and torque pattern you used.

this is a case where over tightening of one fastener could cause problems (leaks) for the other, surrounding fasteners.

for the majority of circular parts that require torque, one should use a star pattern

unless someone has the manual or recommended torque pattern, I would do it in this pattern
Thanks for your feedback and time....This was done, my mechanic tightened the 8mm bolts not too tight and their respective opposite thereafter.
Old 10-29-13, 08:45 PM
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RA40
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Given the torque pattern, insuring the proper torque value used is highly important with gaskets. As good as pro's are at hand torquing, minor variances can be exaggerated with highly flammable-fumes in this instance. Going back to insure the torque values are consistent would be my suggestion.

The smell may not necessarily be emanating at the tank but along the line and the smell is easy to enter the cabin. Check the filler tube gasket, that was the issue with dad's old car. He did some other fuel line work and although the tank wasn't directly worked on, there was a slight shift and that old gasket didn't take well being that old.

Japan cars have some pretty harsh conditions to deal with. Rubber parts will have additional age issues to contend with. So any fuel lines that have been moved may need to be re-checked to insure their integrity.
Old 10-29-13, 10:18 PM
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Amskeptic
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Originally Posted by Yamae
What a dangerous countermeasure, you just have applied! The silicon should not be used. The chemical reaction between the silicon and the gasoline cause a swelling problem.
Yamae, it was you that I read in another thread chastising someone for posting about "Farenheight" versus the correct "Celcius", and not being careful about the accuracy of their post in regards to "operating temperatures" and capacitor ratings.

Now, with a heavy heart, I must chastise you for a careless reading of the term, "aluminum cover".
Colin
Old 10-29-13, 11:23 PM
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cobalt91
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Dont forget to check the vent hose for damage.
Old 10-30-13, 05:50 AM
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LScowboyLS
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I would use the real Toyota gasket and have the sealing surfaces looking like new, and not only is the torque pattern important but also the amount of torque, just follow the factory service manual I linked you to.

Originally Posted by Yamae
The torque and the tightening order of 8mm bolts are also important and you have to follow the service manual.
good advice!


Originally Posted by MattLS400
The silicone was placed on the outside of the ALLUMINIUM COVER...thats the cover which the guy is holding in his hand.....therefore, gasoline is in no contact with the silicone gasket-maker ......
and if gas or gas vapor will never contact the silicone, then what is the point of applying it?

Last edited by LScowboyLS; 10-30-13 at 06:01 AM.
Old 10-30-13, 08:09 AM
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MattLS400
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Thanks for your contribution members.

Please note, Thats why I said Gasoline is not in contact with the silicone.

Theres a difference with Gasoline (liquid) and Gas fumes (Gas vapour).

I said that Gas fumes are escaping......My guess, theres some minute leak where these fumes are leaking somewhere around the gasket beneath the set-plate.. Though I believe that to be impossible as I double checked and torqued each 8mm bolt and their respective opposite accordingly.
Old 10-30-13, 10:12 AM
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timmy0tool
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i would open the cover again and inspect while the car is on to notice any leaks from the actual line coming into the fuel pump. like what RA40 stated, any disruption in the rubber lines may have caused a small leak.
Old 10-30-13, 11:05 AM
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LScowboyLS
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Yamae is correct that putting any sealants around gas or gas vapor contacting areas can screw up thing much worse.

Your Lexus didn't need silicone from the factory and it doesn't need it now, if the gasket is installed correctly.

Like RA40 has said, replacing all of the old fuel vent line wouldn't be a bad idea on a nearly 20 year old car! - as well as the filler cap & filler tube gasket!

Last edited by LScowboyLS; 10-30-13 at 11:19 AM.
Old 10-30-13, 12:05 PM
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PureDrifter
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sounds more like you may have an evap leak from one of the lines from the tank.
Old 10-30-13, 12:24 PM
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MattLS400
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Originally Posted by PureDrifter
sounds more like you may have an evap leak from one of the lines from the tank.
Question, irregardless if there is a leak on one of the lines inside of the tank, how would that cause a smell on the outside ?
Meaning, Where the line is, there is already the fuel inside of the fuel tank....
Old 10-30-13, 05:40 PM
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cobalt91
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EVAP that he is talking about moves the fume to another part of the car for filtering. Usually a charcoal canister.


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