LS400 Rear Deck Subwoofer Mounting
10-20-13, 11:42 AM
#16
My setup is still not done, but I have a custom built box with two 10's mounted in the rear deck. The subs that I currently have are kickers and are not the right sub for the box, but they still sound OK... I plan on running the RF P3 shallow mounts as they work really well off of about a 1/2 cubic foot space. The kickers that I currently have were just my mock up subs and are recommended for 1.5 cubic box. I'm not a professional, but I really think with the right skills and knowledge about subs and the cubic space they need you could come up with a quality setup with a box buiilt into the rear deck. 
10-20-13, 12:03 PM
#17
My setup is still not done, but I have a custom built box with two 10's mounted in the rear deck. The subs that I currently have are kickers and are not the right sub for the box, but they still sound OK... I plan on running the RF P3 shallow mounts as they work really well off of about a 1/2 cubic foot space. The kickers that I currently have were just my mock up subs and are recommended for 1.5 cubic box. I'm not a professional, but I really think with the right skills and knowledge about subs and the cubic space they need you could come up with a quality setup with a box buiilt into the rear deck.
Last edited by Sc0pe; 10-20-13 at 12:08 PM.
10-20-13, 02:26 PM
#18
10-20-13, 02:46 PM
#19
One idea would be a small, but wide enclosure with a nice subwoofer (or subwoofers). My idea, if I were to use the IDMAX consists of a 12"x36"x8" sealed box (1.253 ft^3 after sub displacement) snugged up against the back of the trunk. Mount the amps on both sides of the subwoofer and fab up a nice (hardwood) dress up panel to keep everything looking nice and tidy. Maybe toss in a fan, or two, depending on heat.
Last edited by Sc0pe; 10-20-13 at 02:50 PM.
10-20-13, 03:50 PM
#21
Last edited by Sc0pe; 10-20-13 at 03:56 PM.
10-21-13, 03:57 PM
#22
No bracing as of right now. The box has been in there unfinished for going on maybe 6 months now. Just don't have the time for it right now. But because there is so much material cut out of the deck, I'm going to be making a rear strut bar that will go across the top of the subs to each shock tower for extra support.
I have the deck cut out just big enough to fit the box into from the top. The top piece of wood on the box is cut larger than the box and fits over the cut on the metal deck. Hopefully that makes sense?
I have the deck cut out just big enough to fit the box into from the top. The top piece of wood on the box is cut larger than the box and fits over the cut on the metal deck. Hopefully that makes sense?
01-09-14, 07:06 PM
#23
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One idea would be a small, but wide enclosure with a nice subwoofer (or subwoofers). My idea, if I were to use the IDMAX consists of a 12"x36"x8" sealed box (1.253 ft^3 after sub displacement) snugged up against the back of the trunk. Mount the amps on both sides of the subwoofer and fab up a nice (hardwood) dress up panel to keep everything looking nice and tidy. Maybe toss in a fan, or two, depending on heat.
01-09-14, 07:14 PM
#24
I figured for now I'd get my priorities straight haha. The Sundown SD-2 10" is working just fine, and now that it's broken in, it's even better! My main goal for now is getting my '99 either closer to the ground, or on new wheels After I've got that taken care of, I'll start adding on/replacing stuff in the system.
After I've got that taken care of, I'll start adding on/replacing stuff in the system.
Last edited by Sc0pe; 01-09-14 at 10:45 PM.
01-11-14, 07:58 PM
#25
Drop before wheels!
These cars are too high in stock form to make wheels look good without a drop... Even the lowering springs are too high, IMHO, for most wheel packages.
I'm sort of in the same boat as scope was, trying to figure out a design that will have a lot of output but still maintain a very high level of SQ.
I've mocked up a few designs but the more I read the more I think I need to play around with positioning... I also have the added headache of trying to build with the intention of adding air down the road.
These cars are too high in stock form to make wheels look good without a drop... Even the lowering springs are too high, IMHO, for most wheel packages.
I'm sort of in the same boat as scope was, trying to figure out a design that will have a lot of output but still maintain a very high level of SQ.
I've mocked up a few designs but the more I read the more I think I need to play around with positioning... I also have the added headache of trying to build with the intention of adding air down the road.
01-11-14, 08:42 PM
#26
Drop before wheels!
These cars are too high in stock form to make wheels look good without a drop... Even the lowering springs are too high, IMHO, for most wheel packages.
I'm sort of in the same boat as scope was, trying to figure out a design that will have a lot of output but still maintain a very high level of SQ.
I've mocked up a few designs but the more I read the more I think I need to play around with positioning... I also have the added headache of trying to build with the intention of adding air down the road.
These cars are too high in stock form to make wheels look good without a drop... Even the lowering springs are too high, IMHO, for most wheel packages.
I'm sort of in the same boat as scope was, trying to figure out a design that will have a lot of output but still maintain a very high level of SQ.
I've mocked up a few designs but the more I read the more I think I need to play around with positioning... I also have the added headache of trying to build with the intention of adding air down the road.
(Gonads' car) Anybody want to sell me some cheap coils? lolSo far, my plan basically throws the spare tire out the proverbial window, but it'll definitely look cool from a show perspective. Basically two subs in the side pockets, amplifiers mounted in the center of the trunk (basically a wall before the fuel tank which the amps will be mounted to, and covered with a dress-up panel), then have all the air stuff chillin' in the spare tire well (with a removable panel to reveal the plexiglas window to the air stuff).
***EDIT***
Just realized I'm basically going to be copying Schnitz's setup with some minor changes
Last edited by Sc0pe; 01-11-14 at 09:51 PM.
01-12-14, 05:00 PM
#27
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I'm sort of in the same boat as scope was, trying to figure out a design that will have a lot of output but still maintain a very high level of SQ.
I've mocked up a few designs but the more I read the more I think I need to play around with positioning... I also have the added headache of trying to build with the intention of adding air down the road.
I've mocked up a few designs but the more I read the more I think I need to play around with positioning... I also have the added headache of trying to build with the intention of adding air down the road.
My plan is to enlarge the factory sub location and mount a 12" Acoustic Elegance IB12AU. I wish a 15" would fit or two 12's but the rear deck has a couple obstacles I don't wanna modify. There are some braces under the rear deck that run front to rear and divide it into 3 sections. The center section of the rear deck is plenty big enough for a single 12" but the outer two might be kinda tight. A 15" might fit in the center section but I'd have to replace the 3rd brake light and get pretty close to where the top of the back seat rests. More cutting than I really wanna do.
I'll mount the sub on top of the rear deck just like the factory one is, not from under neath. I'll have to make a new grill regardless so I'll just make one large enough to cover what ever it takes to make it mount there. I'll also brace and damp as needed.
IB done well can be about as SQ as you can get. They get lower and go higher into the mid-bass region more easily than a sealed or vented sub configuration. They sound great and aren't being forced to work in a small box with lots of power. IB can also get very loud but does work better with large drivers, 15" is the preferred starting point.
Are you gonna vent the rear deck somehow?
01-12-14, 07:20 PM
#28
My plan is to enlarge the factory sub location and mount a 12" Acoustic Elegance IB12AU. I wish a 15" would fit or two 12's but the rear deck has a couple obstacles I don't wanna modify. There are some braces under the rear deck that run front to rear and divide it into 3 sections. The center section of the rear deck is plenty big enough for a single 12" but the outer two might be kinda tight. A 15" might fit in the center section but I'd have to replace the 3rd brake light and get pretty close to where the top of the back seat rests. More cutting than I really wanna do.
Are you gonna vent the rear deck somehow?
01-13-14, 01:01 PM
#29
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Yep, the gas tank location is a big obstacle.
Will your set up leave the OE sub hole on the rear deck as the only vent from the trunk to the interior?
It occurred to me that if I were to replace my fullsized spare with a donut spare then I'd have a pretty large area to mount an amp and save all of the useable trunk space not to mention any need to cut up the molded carpeted trunk panels. Has anyone done this and documented it anywhere? Might you know what donut spare I'd need to get that works easily? I still run the OE size tires, 225/60-16.
Will your set up leave the OE sub hole on the rear deck as the only vent from the trunk to the interior?
It occurred to me that if I were to replace my fullsized spare with a donut spare then I'd have a pretty large area to mount an amp and save all of the useable trunk space not to mention any need to cut up the molded carpeted trunk panels. Has anyone done this and documented it anywhere? Might you know what donut spare I'd need to get that works easily? I still run the OE size tires, 225/60-16.