Tuha

Awesome install. I'm a bit jealous and can't wait to do mine once funds permit. I'm impressed that you decided to splash so much on your system and that it was all worth it in the end except for the tweeter issue. But you will figure that out too.

EmpPenguin

The specs I don't know for now, but it is mounted in the back right of the trunk with the speaker pointed toward the right side wall. I thought that the speaker would be mounted toward the front of the car, but the car stereo shop owner wanted the bass to bank off the right side wall and into the trunk. Apparently he knows what he is doing, because the subwoofer sounds great, very clean, and from the outside I don't hear that rattling sound you often hear from other boom boxes driving around; maybe I would have that, too, if I drove 700 watts into the subwoofer, but I am perfectly happy with half that.

Sc0pe

iTrader: (1)

Is it in the side pocket where the trunk-mount tool kit is? If so, then that's where I have mine and my bass is lackluster, at best (compared to stock - which was pretty booming) and I'm putting ~500 watts to it. Though unlike your subwoofer, mine is pointing into the trunk (left side) instead of the wall of the trunk (right) like you. I suppose tomorrow I'll try re-positioning it and see how that goes.

EmpPenguin

Pardon the clutter in the trunk. Here is a picture of the subwoofer mount. Yes, it is set such that the front left of the enclosure is flush against the part of the wall where the tool kit is set. There appears to be about 6" of space between the speaker and the side wall.



When I first saw it, I was a little surprised why the speaker was pointed that way (I had thought the speaker should point to the front of the car), but apparently my installer knows what he is doing. Sounds great!

LEXUSA400

Did he remove the factory sub woofer on the rear deck?

EmpPenguin

No, he did not remove it, but merely disconnected it. The factory subwoofer could not handle 350 watts.

Sc0pe

iTrader: (1)

Ah, awesome thanks man! I'm going to try out that location and see if that fixes my "lack of bass" problem. Also, you should consider removing the stock sub (pretty easy, just remove your subwoofer cover, loosen the 4 10mm bolts, wiggle it out of place and put the cover back on. By freeing up that hole, it allows more air, and in turn more bass, to flow into the cabin.

EmpPenguin

That may be a good idea and I might try it. However, the bass produced by the system is already sufficient. My installer explained to me that pointing the speaker toward the side wall creates a "horn effect" inside the trunk. The specifics are beyond my comprehension, but after installing over a thousand systems in cars for nearly 30 years he knows what he is doing.

If you are still having problems with your sound, send me a private message so I can send you his phone number so you can talk with him and he will help you solve any problems or help you improve your system.

Sc0pe

iTrader: (1)

Right now, I think my issue is my gains are set too low, so I'm going to try resetting my gains/low pass filter/etc. and adjusting them some more, since my subwoofer is hardly thumping at my max headunit volume unless I turn up the bass boost on my head unit and my bass ****. So far, from playing with positioning, I've found positioning it directly under the old subwoofer hole or having the subwoofer itself face the "back" (where you open it and put your groceries in ).

But yeah, if my bass is still "lacking" after I readjust everything and my positioning and all, I'll definitely send a PM your way.

LEXUSA400

Not exactly a "horn" type configuration, more like a Bass Shaker Tactile Transducer and Passive Radiator. Your new subwoofer thumps the body of the car and the now disconnected factory subwoofer moves with the changing air volume in the trunk.

EmpPenguin

So you think removing the factory subwoofer would make a difference? For now I love the system as it is, but if removal is easy I'll give it a try.

Sc0pe

iTrader: (1)

Oh, it is SIMPLE, believe me. Just go to the rear subwoofer cover and pull up on all 4 corners. You can even use your hands. Subwoofer removal consists of 4 10mm bolts - 2 will be in view while the other 2, you should move your rear deck around to get to them. After that, it's just a matter of wiggling it free.

LEXUSA400

It's all about the end result and you being happy but you could experiment and see what it sound like with the factory sub removed.
Our trunks are pretty much sealed off from the cabin, unlike most other inferior cars. The fuel tank is behind the rear seat and there is solid sheet metal, not just an "X" brace or lotsa holes. There are a few bolt holes and clip holes but mostly sheet metal. This will minimize sound traveling from the trunk to the cabin.

Removing the factory subwoofer is kinda like creating a very short vent/port from the very large trunk enclosure. You will end up with a type of bandpass enclosure, very small sealed enclosure on the back of the woofer and very large vented/ported enclosure on the front.....with an 8" diameter vent .25" long. Probably not what a woofer enclosure design program would come up with but who knows how it will sound.