LS - 1st and 2nd Gen (1990-2000) Discussion topics related to the 1990 - 2000 Lexus LS400

Low voltage after new battery and new alternator?

Old 09-13-13, 07:25 AM
  #31  
deanshark
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Originally Posted by bass911
Back from Autozone. They said the alt is charging but not at what it should be and also said the regulator was bad. Are Duralast alternators junk for our cars or could it be the ecu making the alt appear bad? I don't see any point in replacing a new alternator with the same one just to have the same problems happen again. They also said the battery is only at 75%, but that is the alternator causing that.

Any of these any good?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lexus-LS400-...0f0911&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/LEXUS-ALTERN...612299&vxp=mtr
If you bought the alt from Autozone it's under warranty. They tested it and already said it's bad so you should bring that one back and see if you can get a more powerful alt and just pay the difference. Also, that battery under the hood looks a little small.
Old 09-13-13, 09:31 AM
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nthach
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Originally Posted by LScowboyLS

I don't see how anyone can expect to run a big high current sound system or whatever and stay with the stock 80A alternator, this makes no sense, electrical engineering-wise!
Odd, mine is 100A. I know guys who are pushing 200W on Civics with the OEM 70A alternator.
Old 09-13-13, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by nthach
Odd, mine is 100A.
93-94 have 100A. The 95-97 came with 80A. I'm pretty sure the OP has a 97.
Old 09-16-13, 10:52 AM
  #34  
bass911
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Some of you are missing the point. I know all about car audio installation, but this problem was happening before I ever hooked anything up that was aftermarket. The only reason I'm getting the 200amp alt is because it is cheaper than an 80amp Denso and the Autozone Duralast alt seems to be junk. If you read the entire thread you will see that I have no headlight or dash lights dimming. The regulator seems to be the issue and has jack to do with the aftermarket stuff.
Old 09-16-13, 11:34 AM
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LScowboyLS
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I know all about car audio installation
If you were using the stock 80A alternator and yet you had high current aftermarket amps, subs, etc. requiring an extra battery and large gauge cabling, then I am not so sure you do!
Old 09-16-13, 03:25 PM
  #36  
nthach
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Originally Posted by deanshark
93-94 have 100A. The 95-97 came with 80A. I'm pretty sure the OP has a 97.
Wouldn't an alt from a Tundra/LC be a drop-in fit or no?
Old 09-16-13, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by LScowboyLS
If you were using the stock 80A alternator and yet you had high current aftermarket amps, subs, etc. requiring an extra battery and large gauge cabling, then I am not so sure you do!
You are not sure of anything imo! Running stock everything doesn't require extra wiring. Nothing aftermarket was hooked up when the battery alternator test was done. So what is your point? I have a Tahoe with HO Alt, 2 large batteries in the back, 2 runs of 0 gauge, 4 15" sub, and 4 amps. So please tell me again what I don't know? The 200amp alternator is on it's way.
Old 09-16-13, 04:18 PM
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no, belt routing and clearances are pretty different iirc.
Old 09-16-13, 04:21 PM
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deanshark
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Originally Posted by bass911
You are not sure of anything imo! Running stock everything doesn't require extra wiring. Nothing aftermarket was hooked up when the battery alternator test was done. So what is your point? I have a Tahoe with HO Alt, 2 large batteries in the back, 2 runs of 0 gauge, 4 15" sub, and 4 amps. So please tell me again what I don't know? The 200amp alternator is on it's way.
Everyone is trying to tell you. Your alt is not good enough. Even Autozone told you. If you had it tested with nothing aftermarket hooked up and they said the alt is no good, then it's no good. Put a HO alt in (like you have in your Tahoe) and you should be good to go.
Old 09-20-13, 11:05 AM
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It arrived and I will try to have it installed today.

New 200 amp alternator
Old 09-20-13, 04:01 PM
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bass911
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It turned out to be a complete waste of time getting this new alternator. I went to get it put on at a real shop with certified mechanics. They tested the battery and alternator and said there is nothing wrong. He said the guy at Autozone doesn't know what he's talking about. I even played the system to see if it was pulling too much power, and the mechanic said it is not worth the upgrade because it wasn't presenting any real strain on the electrical system. The alt is charging properly and the battery is fully charged. I guess Duralast isn't junk after all.
Old 09-20-13, 04:35 PM
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As my Pappy used to say "It takes a whole lot longer to fix what ain't a problem."
Old 09-20-13, 05:35 PM
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It turned out to be a complete waste of time getting this new alternator.
No it wasn't, we never said your Duralast alternator was bad, but you are trying to use much more than the stock level of amperage, due to your sound system or whatever, so it is Electrical Engineering 101, 1st day of class, that you need a higher output alternator than stock, as the stock size alternator can just barely keep up with what comes on the car.


I went to get it put on at a real shop with certified mechanics.
hey even better yet, you are here on Club Lexus, where the certified mechanics at the real shops go to ask their questions when they are stumped
Old 09-20-13, 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by bass911
He said the guy at Autozone doesn't know what he's talking about.

The alt is charging properly and the battery is fully charged.
Seems like somebody doesn't know something b/c you tested it yourself and said it wasn't charging properly and the battery didn't have enough juice.
Anyone who knows anything about auto electronics will tell you, with what you're putting in for a system, you will need a bigger alt to keep enough juice going.
Old 09-20-13, 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by deanshark
Seems like somebody doesn't know something b/c you tested it yourself and said it wasn't charging properly and the battery didn't have enough juice.
Anyone who knows anything about auto electronics will tell you, with what you're putting in for a system, you will need a bigger alt to keep enough juice going.
I'm trying to tell you at full tilt with the system on, the most it dropped was .02 volts. It probably would drop more if the amp was putting out rms power. I was watching his meter while it was working. He said my meter was reading low. I use this guy all the time and he hasn't been wrong yet. This is the same shop that took out the Denso Alt and put the Duralast in. Autozone told me the Denso was bad first. Then I took it to him and he said the same thing. I thought it was something wrong with the Duralast Alt because of my readings, but I suspect a garbage amp. I'm sending the Ppi amp back to try a different one.

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