VolGS300

We recently bought a 95 LS400 with 169k as a 3rd car. Last night after driving for about 20 minutes we got off of the interstate and came to a stop sign. The car seemed to take off in 2nd gear and not want to shift. We were less than 2 blocks from the house, and coasted down a hill the majority of the rest of the way. When I pulled in the driveway, it would not go into reverse and took forever to finally start barely pulling in drive.

I went out today and started the car and it went in gear just fine, both forward and reverse. I let it sit in the driveway and come up to temperature to check the fluid, and had to add about 1/2 a quart. Hoping that was the issue, I took off around the block, and it kind of slipped a little, and by the time I got back it didn't want to go back in reverse, taking about 5-10 seconds.

The fluid was red when I checked it. I was expecting it to be black.

Any ideas here? My luck I got the transmission that isn't bullet proof like the others. There was no CEL on to possibly indicate a sensor or something like that.

Worst case scenario, I have read a lot, and saw numerous posts where people have said I would be better off if the transmission is indeed bad to out a junkyard transmission in there instead of rebuilding this one.

TIA.

Lavrishevo

iTrader: (1)

Usually you do not need to rebuild. I would start by doing the the drain and refill and make sure is its correctly filled. As others have pointed out, it is better to be a bit over then under. DO NOT flush it. Use only OEM fluid as well.

Could also be shift solenoids going bad too. Just because the color of the fluid is red does not mean is is in great shape but start with a drain and refill and use Toyota type IV fluid. Hopefully that's what you added and what was in the transmission as well. If you find out the wrong fluid was put in, then dropping the pan might be in order. Getting the old stuff out is important but shocking it via a flush is never a good idea. Very important that you use OEM type IV fluid. NOT Dextron or regular transmission fluid.

VolGS300

Thanks Lavrishevo. When I was able to get the transmission fluid I didn't have time to get to the dealer so I bought some fluid at Advance that said it was for Toyotas and T-IV.

I'm not sure what kind of fluid was in it when I purchased the car.

If it was the shift solenoids wouldn't it trip the CEL?

LScowboyLS

these transmissions typically go for 300K or more, and shift solenoids can go bad, but there are more likely things to try first

1. make sure the fluid is Toyota T-IV
2. make sure the filter is Toyota genuine - aftermarket filters can sometimes fall in the pan and the fluid is not picked up
3. far more common than solenoids when the transmission will not shift is the near epidemic problem of failing ECU capacitors (my 96 got so bad it would not automatically shift at all, I had to manually select each gear!) - keep in mind that all transmission control is handled by the ECU!

VolGS300

Wouldn't a bad or defective ECU trip the CEL?

I think I'll start with a drain and refill with the authentic Toyota T-IV fluid to see what that does. If it doesn't fix it then I'll have to go to Plan B and check the solenoids or ECU.

It just acts like the clutches and bands are bad the way it won't go into reverse for 5-10 seconds and then in drive it finally takes gear but you have to give it some gas to get it to move.

Lavrishevo

iTrader: (1)

Defective solenoid(s) should set a CEL. The ECU problem does not always set a code or you get weird random codes. LsCowboy can explain more about this as he is the resident expert. You can pull the ECU, open it up, and inspect the caps pretty easily.

Since the car is only giving you issues with the transmission I would lean towards the problem being in the transmission itself. Do you have any kind of service history, was it purchased from someone who serviced it properly, have you checked the vin on Lexus Drivers to look at dealer history? Since she is acting pretty bad it might be worth dropping the pan and checking the filter. Do you know for sure you are not getting any CEL's? Have you had it hooked up to a scanner? CEL lamp could be out.

http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/trans...anschange.html

VolGS300

No service history, but the fluid looked good when I drove it before buying. It ran fine with no signs of issues then all of a sudden it goes crazy.

I never thought of the CEL lamp being out, so I may get it scanned to make sure there's no hidden codes.

I think I'll have the pan dropped, filter checked, and fluid replaced with real T-IV fluid and cross my fingers that it works after that.

Lavrishevo

iTrader: (1)

Try registering here:

https://secure.drivers.lexus.com/lexusdrivers/home

Put your vin number in and you will be able to see service history done at any dealers.

LScowboyLS

when the ECU capacitors have issues, typically there are no codes, my transmission got so bad that you had to manually shift each gear, and yet, still not codes, not even hidden ones!

VolGS300

My mechanic scanned it just to be safe and no codes.

When it sits and you crank the car it will take gear as soon as you put it in gear with no hesitations.

He got it out and drove it and then it started acting up. He cut it off, let it sit about 10 minutes, cranked it back, and it took gear normally again.

It seems like it acts up when something gets warm?

Lavrishevo

iTrader: (1)

Dropping the pan would be the next logical step in my opinion.

LScowboyLS

pulling the ECU and looking inside is a 15 minute project!

just be sure you disconnect the negative battery cable before disconnecting ECU and be sure to always be wearing cotton clothing and bare feet and be gentle with it!

take high resolution photos and post them and Yamae or I can generally tell if the caps are bad.

RA40

iTrader: (6)

Pulling the glove box out took 4X longer than fixing the ECU. The subsequent re-install didn't go any faster due to those two screws/nuts in the lower par of the assembly that are in a tight spot. 15 minutes...not for me.

LScowboyLS

it goes quick once you realize there is a hidden fastener behind a secret panel!

peterls

My transmission was doing similar things, only when warm, but it was not ECU, it was the two shift solenoids. However, it did throw a code, so if yours does not, I am willing to bet it is ECU.

Since I did it not long ago, here is from memory - how to get to the ecu:
- Open the glove box
- pull out all the black fasteners/plastic screws from inside the glove box - IIRC, there should be three on the top and three on the bottom
- Now pull out the glove box, while making sure you don't rip apart those little wires for the light in the corner.
- Now you should be able to take off the glove box door - it is held in place with plastic hinges on both sides - just snap them off from the top (take a good look and you'll see where)
- Now you can see the two bolts holding the passenger side plastic panel, one to the left and one to the right of the glove box opening, kinda hard to reach, but doable with a ratchet and extension (10mm if memory serves me)
- there are also plastic clips on the bottom in the footwell, gotta get a flashlight in there and stick your head in there to take them off.
- And there is one more bolt somewhere in the middle, can't remember exactly where, but by this time you start pulling gently and you will see where it is.
- Once all of this is off, there will be ABS ECU and main ECU. Don't confuse the two...
- To get the ECU out, you need to unscrew it from there, with its bracket, and unplug it carefully (There should be three plugs on the back).
- Once you have the ECU out, you need to unscrew the cover; can't remember which way is top, and which way is bottom, but if you open the wrong side, you will now (then you just screw it back in, and open the other side). The "right" side is the one where you can see all the guts and caps and such... I was lucky that my ECU was actually brand new. (when I was sure it was not, and bought a new one, so now I have two brand new ECUs). Just for the heck of it, I tried them both, and the car behaved identically. Replacing the shift solenoids solved my problems; flushing the cooling system and replacing all cooling sensors/switches and the thermostat improved the shifting much more than I hoped.

Hope it helps