Jspec603

Could easily depend on the vehicle as well. Always need to take into consideration hidden costs for things. Broken studs, rusted/rotted flanges etc.

However, I bet a 1U with header back exhaust sounds amazing.

Twista4004

Makes me wonder why someone doesn't just pull the motor out to do it. Is it really that hard? I know on my 240 (which is BY NO MEANS as complex as my LS) It cost about $300 to remove and replace. So why not yank it out and then replace, clean and refurb as much stuff as you can while it's out?

Jspec603

Pulling a 1U is a pita. You have to disconnect all of the exhaust components to pull it anyways,so why not just do it in the car while your only half way done taking everything apart.

sleepywgn

Can we get a sound clip of the headers please. I want more info and pix!

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

there are a couple huge threads for the PPE headers in the 2GS and 1SC forums.

billymild

Do you need a new tune after headers or a cat back exhaust?

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

You can't "tune" or flash the stock ECU.


You would need a piggyback or standalone system to tune any fuel out or have any timing control.

simrx3

you dont have to run a piggy back style ecu layout..

you can run the ecu of your choice, here we chose an autonic.

and then also run a suprastick auto ecu - http://www.latentsolutions.com/suprastickuv.html

i found out the pinout to my mates 1uz v8 auto ecu and wired in the 2 ecus into the factory plug so it was plug and play.

this is the job i did on my mates 2wd hilux (tacoma) with a 1uz conversion running the stock auto as well

round 1 was the v8 conversion using the factory loom

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...2298027&type=3

round 2 we twin turboed it 348hp at 10psi still using the above system

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...2298027&type=3


you may have to copy and paste the links into your browser

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

That's a standlone ECU. Generally far more expensive and involved to install than a piggyback, though admittedly much more customizable.

Not really an option for those of us in pollution controlled areas.

LScowboyLS

and the only piggyback I have even seen actually have even a very modest effect on performance is the MINES, and that one is also crazy expensive (like $1850)

for most Lexus drivers, just replacing your ECU caps and installing the $50 genuine Toyota ECTS and new Denso pre-cat O2 sensors will restore factory new performance and you might be surprised just how much of a "seat of the pants" difference that will make! (especially low end torque)

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

then you don't have much experience with piggybacks. Considering the Mine's is a pre-programmed daughterboard piggyback, and not a modern tunable piggyback such as the AEM F/IC, the APex'i SAFC Neo, or myriad others.

LScowboyLS

they are pretty mickey-mouse, universal, and also quite expensive, for just being able to modulate pulse width somewhat and retard timing (but not advance it!) - not nearly as powerful or elegant as a daughterboard based system, that actually has control of many more ECU decisions.

Lexus's are just not good candidates for this, due to the original ECU being locked up tight, and never software cracked. Very small return on investment. This is why racers tend to have a dedicated ECU to completely replace the factory ECU, but that is only feasible for huge racing budgets such as F1 etc.

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

And I'm sure that opinion is from all your years of experience tuning and modifying cars?


Let's get this discussion back on track, exhaust modifications. You want to discuss piggyback ECUs in an LS-relevant context, create/find an appropriate thread.

LSpho

My pipes are all stock except from the first Y to the back right exit is a single crush bent 3" for a matter of months now.

I want to shift the torque band down and retain/gain low-mid end for hill climbs during the weeks for my hiking/trial running routines + regular driving. As of currently with the crushed 3", I find that I'd have to be in 2nd and blast away unecessarily or lump around steadily slow in 3rd. It does see high rpms very often on the freeway or if roads are long and open.

Talked to a bender/exhaust manuf. They said that the crushed 3" is too disruptive and has slow exhaust velocity and suggested I should be going with a mandrel 2.5 as that'll retain tq curve low-mid better than a crushed 3" and still will gain a little bit up top with that type of driving I do. It does seem disruptive as the OEM Y to a single 3 is a **** merge but if I recall the single 3 is a bit smaller overall than dual 2 1/4

They do not have any jigs/molds of LS400 piping so the rest of it will be as follows

- From the cats 2.25 > OEM Y > single 2.5 for the massive low-mid torque
- OEM everything and just 2.5 single from the Y
- Leave it as is
- 2.25 > better transition cone to the current 3" single
- 2.25 > better transition cone to mandrel 3"
- Someone can add other viable proper idea here

(OEM Y because has been stated to be good? I also have a 3" magnaflow Y from another vehicle if applicable )

Boyscout

iTrader: (3)

mine sounds amazing