1st gen strut rod bushing replacement help
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1st gen strut rod bushing replacement help
I've been searching for quite a while now and it seems that no one has given a definite answer for replacing the strut rod bushings on a 1st gen ls400. All of the links I've seen in other threads that have a tutorial involving this are either broken or not hosted anymore.
When replacing the strut rod bushings on a ucf1x(completly different design from a ucf2x) is it a simple bolt in design? I have the bushings sitting here right next to me. My only worry is if the strut bar would need to be completly taken off of the knuckle and bushing pressed off and on. Can you simply unbolt the large nut on the end of the strut rod, the 3 12mm nuts from the old bushing and slide it off? My cars been an Illinois car it's whole life so Im worried if the old bushing will be siezed to the strut rod itself. any help is appreciated, thanks!
generic photo of bushing
When replacing the strut rod bushings on a ucf1x(completly different design from a ucf2x) is it a simple bolt in design? I have the bushings sitting here right next to me. My only worry is if the strut bar would need to be completly taken off of the knuckle and bushing pressed off and on. Can you simply unbolt the large nut on the end of the strut rod, the 3 12mm nuts from the old bushing and slide it off? My cars been an Illinois car it's whole life so Im worried if the old bushing will be siezed to the strut rod itself. any help is appreciated, thanks!
generic photo of bushing
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I believe the manual calls for loosening the two bolts that hold the other end of the strut rod. This seems to be just so that everything is centered with no pre-load before things are tightened down. I expect that if it seems centered enough there is no need to do that step.
One tip on finishing the job right: Before torquing down the single big nut, point the wheels straight ahead and lower the car to the ground (supported only by the wheels). If you torque the nut while it is jacked up, as soon as it is dropped to the ground, you'll have a twist in that rubber bushing, which may affect wear and handling slightly.
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I went ahead and took care of them last night, was extremly easy and took probably 15 minutes all together. I had to heat up the large 27mm nut on the strut rod due to the corrosion and what not but after that it was very easy. Right after replacing them I went and did an alignment on the car, drives perfectly straight now.
Symptoms I had from these bushings being bad was the car was wandering while driving down the road. Everytime the brakes were applied you would hear a clunk from the front end followed by a vibration which felt like warped rotors. The odd thing is that it felt like the vibration was coming from the rear end, which is why I had replaced all of the rear bushings with the ADUS bushings from ebay.
thanks everyone for the help!
Symptoms I had from these bushings being bad was the car was wandering while driving down the road. Everytime the brakes were applied you would hear a clunk from the front end followed by a vibration which felt like warped rotors. The odd thing is that it felt like the vibration was coming from the rear end, which is why I had replaced all of the rear bushings with the ADUS bushings from ebay.
thanks everyone for the help!
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oldskewel
LS - 1st and 2nd Gen (1990-2000)
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03-03-12 02:13 PM