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Old 12-14-12, 02:17 PM   #1
PlotPoint
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Default Replace/Clean Transmission Pan Oil Strainer?

There's trans pan seepage and I want that fixed, plus it's due for an ATF change. I took a look at the lexls.com tutorial and he says you can do either after you get the trans pan off -- buy a new oil strainer (part number 35330-50010, which I think is around $35 OEM), OR just clean it.

http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/trans...anschange.html

The car is first gen so that oil strainer has been in there a long while. Does it need to be replaced? As far as I know the trans pan isn't dented up or anything so I am not replacing the pan itself. Just cleaning everything out and putting in the Toyota recommended fluids.

One other question...do you all use both a gasket and the Toyota recommended seal/packing stuff on the first gen lexus ('91), or use only the seal/packing. The lexls tutorial says to use Three Bond 1281 or equivalent.

FYI, the car has about 100K on it now.

If the oil strainer can be cleaned, what would we use to clean it with? There's no time to let it air dry (I am having lots of maintenance done all at once), so maybe I should just buy the part.
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Old 12-14-12, 02:22 PM   #2
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If I am correct (please correct me if i am wrong guys), you just use the recommended sealant from Toyota. I do not think there is even a part # for a pan gasket. if it were me, I'd spend the money on a new strainer for piece of mind as I'm not thinking that part is really meant to be cleaned and re-used. If you are having the pan pulled down, don't put it back up without replacing that strainer. It's just a good idea since you are already in there.
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Old 12-14-12, 02:40 PM   #3
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agreed - you don't need a 20 year old strainer in there that might be about ready to disintegrate! - just get the new one

and for future reference, when you are just doing drain & fill - Toyota recommends replacing BOTH the drain bolt & metal gasket on each change, they actually consider the bolt as a sacrifice to get good sealing, so I know it sounds weird and unnecessary, but the bolt & metal gasket washer are only about $5 total at Sewell, and it is worth it to not worry about a leak - I skipped the bolt replacement and got a leak, won't do that again!

the Toyota part numbers are 90341-10011 (bolt) and 35178-30010 (metal gasket washer)

Last edited by LScowboyLS; 12-14-12 at 02:45 PM.
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Old 12-14-12, 02:50 PM   #4
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Quote:
(part number 35330-50010, which I think is around $35 OEM)
where are you getting the strainer for $35?? (more like $40)
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Old 12-14-12, 06:54 PM   #5
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Oreilly's has a Trans filter for $20. Works just as good
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Old 12-14-12, 07:00 PM   #6
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Quote:
Oreilly's has a Trans filter for $20. Works just as good
Sorry, I ain't putting Chinese mystery mesh into my $7000 Aisin A340E transmission, thanks, but I will just pony up the extra $20 every 100K miles!
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Old 12-14-12, 07:06 PM   #7
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To each his own....
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Old 12-14-12, 07:20 PM   #8
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Quote:
One other question...do you all use both a gasket and the Toyota recommended seal/packing stuff on the first gen lexus ('91), or use only the seal/packing. The lexls tutorial says to use Three Bond 1281 or equivalent.
here is an expert answer:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Yamae View Post
I recently decided to use a gasket instead of the FIPG which was applied by a dealer last time when the pan was dropped a few years ago. The ATF has been leaking little by little since then but the dealer could not fix it. I don't trust the FIPG applied by an unskilled human. I consider that it should be applied by a industrial robot which is adjusted precisely.

You will find how I dislike the FIPG seeing photos below.
Removed pan


The strainer at a glance


What I've got from the strainer


Cleaned pan and the gasket I used
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Old 12-14-12, 08:55 PM   #9
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i've had too many sealing issues with paper/cork gaskets on toyota trans pans, stick to the right kind of toyota FIPG with proper application and it lasts a good long while.
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Old 12-15-12, 07:48 AM   #10
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[QUOTE=LScowboyLS;7651540]where are you getting the strainer for $35?? (more like $40)[/QUOTE

A few days ago I did a search and found one at that price, but did not write down the source (just made a note of the price in my cost estimate spreadsheet). So I can't verify that it's avail at $35 (and it's possible I was not looking at the correct part...I probably googled it by make/model and part name, not part number that time).

Anyway, this morning, all the searches are coming up at $40ish, as you say. The place where I am ordering the parts quoted me $44, which is a few dollars mroe than most, but that's OK, since I am not being charged for shipping (due to the size of my parts order).

Can't thank everyone here enough for the great info. So yes, I will buy this part, no problem, and also get that bolt (already have the gasket). Thanks all!
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Old 12-15-12, 07:55 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LScowboyLS View Post
agreed - you don't need a 20 year old strainer in there that might be about ready to disintegrate! - just get the new one

and for future reference, when you are just doing drain & fill - Toyota recommends replacing BOTH the drain bolt & metal gasket on each change, they actually consider the bolt as a sacrifice to get good sealing, so I know it sounds weird and unnecessary, but the bolt & metal gasket washer are only about $5 total at Sewell, and it is worth it to not worry about a leak - I skipped the bolt replacement and got a leak, won't do that again!

the Toyota part numbers are 90341-10011 (bolt) and 35178-30010 (metal gasket washer)
saved me a lot of time looking up that bolt parts number. working off an older computer (the new one crashed!) and it's slow as molasses. so the detail is very much appreciated.
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Old 12-15-12, 08:03 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hotdawwg View Post
Oreilly's has a Trans filter for $20. Works just as good
Thanks. I'd be tempted, but by the time I pay s/h for a single parts order I would not be saving that much. May as well go with the OEM.
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Old 12-15-12, 08:09 AM   #13
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knowing that you cant drain all the fluid out with the pan off, would/should you change the fluid FIRST, using the flush method at the radiator, or change the strainer FIRST, and then the flush?
what do you think??
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Old 12-15-12, 08:13 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LScowboyLS View Post
here is an expert answer:
Those are great photos. I never did find a gasket for sale (pre cut like that) so I am not sure where he got that. I've got the FIPG on order so will give this packing stuff one more try. Though I'm ready to go the gasket route if a leak develops again after this fix. Nothing worse than having to worry about whether you need to check the trans fluid levels.
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Old 12-15-12, 08:23 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PureDrifter View Post
i've had too many sealing issues with paper/cork gaskets on toyota trans pans, stick to the right kind of toyota FIPG with proper application and it lasts a good long while.
I'm having to redo a previous 'leak fix' after only three years. It was the first time the trans pan had been dropped and I am wondering now if it never will be as buttoned down as it was when it came off the production line. FIPG was used for the fix last time, but my guess is that it was not properly applied. We'll see. I am opting for seal packing one more time.
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