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difficulty replacing lower oil pan 97'

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Old 12-05-12, 08:11 AM
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bwils
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Default difficulty replacing lower oil pan 97'

I'm not gonna lie I messed up nd stripped inside of the drain plug on the pan. And its leaking around the gasket as well. I figure ill jus replace it, anyone done this before and do I need to remove any other parts to get it off.
Old 12-05-12, 08:43 AM
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PureDrifter
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usually its the drain plug itself that strips, not the pan threads... double check.
Old 12-05-12, 11:51 AM
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RA40
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Just to note for others, using a fresh fiber washer/gasket does wonders. The natural tendency is to torque it a bit more when we see a drop forming and next thing ya know.... I did it long time ago and like PD said, the drain bolt strips first but not always. Hopefully the odds are the bolt.
Old 12-05-12, 11:57 AM
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timmy0tool
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i would like to know as well. from inspection, i assume there is nothing in the way (i.e. exhaust, crossmember) to remove the pan. is the whole pan as simple as unbolting and replacing?
Old 12-05-12, 12:47 PM
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Shmee
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As a general rule if there is nothing preventing you from dropping the pan, then yes, you just unbolt it and remove.
If you can, leave the car in the air overnight with the oil pan off and a drain pan under the block.
This is a good idea if you are using silicone rather than a gasket/seal as even a little drop of oil can cause sealing issues, and this will allow any oil hanging on the inside walls of the block to drain away and not contaminate your sealing surface.
Be sure to clean away any and all old gasket from the sealing surface with a razor blade, as well as any that may be stuck to the inside of the block, then spray the surface with a no-residue brake-cleaner and wipe dry.
if you are using silicone, it's a good practice to run a bead around each bolt hole in the pan with a line between each circle like so:
---O-----O-----O------O------O--

Also, be sure to insert all the bolts by hand at least a few threads before you start by snugging them up in a cross-pattern, before a final toque in the same pattern. I have to stress this one as i have seen guys strip out the threads on the block by getting greedy or tightening the bolts down before they insert the next bolt.

Ideally, you want to let the silicone cure for at least a few hours before filling the engine with oil and starting.
Old 12-05-12, 12:49 PM
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lower pan can come out simply, upper pan needs the subframe to be dropped or the motor pulled.
Old 12-08-12, 03:24 AM
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LScowboyLS
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Just to note for others, using a fresh fiber washer/gasket does wonders.
Strange as it may seem, Toyota/Lexus recommends both the bolt and metal washer be replaced when changing the tranny fluid, so apparently there are sealing issues sometimes when reusing the tranny drain bolt, I know I skipped getting a new bolt and it leaked, so I decided to use a new bolt as well as a new washer!
Old 12-09-12, 12:30 AM
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whit3b0y
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Originally Posted by PureDrifter
lower pan can come out simply, upper pan needs the subframe to be dropped or the motor pulled.
PureDrifter is right. bottom pan will just come straight off, as for the aluminum upper.... not as easy.
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