makecopies

New power steering pump new alternator and a new battery and the battery keeps dying. Car worked for a couple of days then this morning the car wouldn't start all the lights are dim. Not sure what else to do with troubleshooting any suggestions? Car drove great for 250 miles.



Posted from ClubLexus.com App for Android

Lavrishevo

iTrader: (1)

You have a slow drain. Something is draining the battery while the car is off. Sometimes alarm, power door locks, and other electronics are the culprit. Any issues with the door locks or something else on the finge? Any electronic issues? Do you leave the auto headlight feature turned on?

makecopies

No issues with the door locks and I don't I use the auto lights feature. The only thing that is on I guess would be the alarm when I look the doors.

Lavrishevo

iTrader: (1)

Go back and make sure all the grounds and connections are correct from the work that was just done. You are sure your alternator and battery are good? Have them tested to make sure you did not get a defective poe.

LScowboyLS

even a simple test you can do in 5 seconds, checking the voltage across the battery terminals at idle should be 13.5V or more with a new battery

if it's not, the the alternator is either defective or mis-installed

also take apart the positive battery terminal at the bolt about two inches from the post, and inspect for corrosion which is common, or just replace that end piece with the part from the dealership

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

check drain and make sure grounds are good.

Yamae

What LScowboyLS wrote above is an important first step. To measure the generating voltage is a simple and easy way to check the generator. Toyota cars are designed to charge the battery even at the idle with some loads as far as the genuine Denso generator is used. As I check different Celsiors, the voltages are around 14.0V at the idle without lights on. Mine (98) generates13.98V at the idle when the temperature is 25 degrees C. With headlights on, still it keeps a bit higher than 13.0V. I also found that many aftermarket generators that are non Denso do not generate that much of voltage and tend to fail quicker.

When the generator is OK and the draining is within a few days, the next step I usually do is to find out the equipment / unit which consumes battery energy using a multimeter which can read 0.1mV order. I check the voltage drop at fuse tops without removing fuses. This sounds somewhat funny but this works. This is a simple application of Ohm's law E=IR and in the past I have succeeded to find out exact unit which was draining the battery.

A fuse has small two metal terminals at top end and all I need to do is to touch the probes to them. A fuse has some small resistance and this causes a small voltage drop. Every load has at least one fuse and I can find the current consuming equipment easily reading the voltage drop. Where any voltage drop exists, there goes a current, you know.

As I check fuses used for Toyota cars, a 10A fuse has a resistance of about 10 mOhm. If a 1A of current goes through this, there will be a voltage drop of 10mV. In case of 30A, it is around 3-4 mOhm and the voltage drop is smaller but still you can read the voltage drop. My multimeter Fluke8060A can read down to 0.01mV and 10mV can be detected easily. I have recommended shop owners to use this method and now they can find the exact line and the unit very quickly.

Rockatansk

You have a telephone in the middleconsole? If so, check to switch off before leaving the car. it´s the red on off button down in the left corner

Gene01

Yamae's post is the best battery drain troubleshooting advice ever!
The 8060A is a great meter. I've had mine for over 20 years.

makecopies

DIOS MIO

I had the car towed to the Lexus dealer because I wanted to stop guessing and figure out what was wrong with it.

Dealer says the power steering fluid is leaking into the alternator.

When I bought the car the previous owner a mechanic replaced the PS pump when I bought it.

A few days later the battery died so I bought a new battery. Car drives fine.

A few days later car dies again. So I told the previous owner about it. He says bring it in I will check it out for you. He tells me it needs a new alternator. So I buy it and he puts it in. He keeps the car for a week and and half he uses it for commuting to work to make sure it works .

So I drive the car again for a couple of days and I get the battery dying symptoms again

Now today Lexus tells me the power steering pump is leaking into the alternator

Obviously this so called mechanic doesn't know what he is doing because im sure when he replaced the alternator he saw the PS pump leaking.

So for the month that I have owned the car I have only driven it a handful of times.
I'm just so frustrated with the whole thing I'm just gonna have it towed back home and let it sit maybe I will revisit this in January and just drive my other car.
Its so hard finding a good mechanic.

Thanks you guys for all of your help

Dranom

iTrader: (7)

Sorry to hear bro! Just keep your head up
Goodluck and I hope you get it sorted soon

Btw what year is your LS?

makecopies

1995
Other than the power steering pump everything else is nice

Lavrishevo

iTrader: (1)

Common problem on those models, unfortunately. Order the parts yourself and then do some research and find a good mechanic. You can find good deals on alternators and PS rebuild kits or pumps. Some people even make little shrouds to protect the alternator in case the PS leaks again.

rockauto.com
stockwiseauto.com
ebay
Sewell and Carson Toyota

Google shopping is a good way to find parts as well.

trukn1

Common problem with these cars,, however the BIGGEST misconception is that if you rebuild the pump itself then the drain will stop. MOST ofthe time itis NOT the pump itself that is the problem, but the hoses and lines leading to/from the pump. Also the IAC (Idle Air Control) Valve is a common culpritthat does go bad, and is missed in the rebuilding of the pump. It IS NOT part of the rebuild kit for the PS pump itself, and to those who do not research properly, WILL rebuild the pump and STILL have the same problem. Most people who have this problem either just remove the valve, cap off the opening andre-route the lines. If you look in the stickied section or do a search for "POWER STEERING BIBLE", this thread will be ALOT more helpful. In a nutshell,,if you rebuild the pump,, you will have a perfectly good pump, however if the solenoid is bad, this is a seperate part entirely from the pump, but it DOES screw into it, then the leak will still persist. This is why you STILL have power steering leak, even after a new alternator. It DOES take a few days/months to kill an alternator with power steering fluid, based upon how bad theleak is. It may have been fine when the previous owner replaced the alternator, but fluid was getting into the new one as well. this is why it only lasted a little more than a week before the new one gave out .

****EDIT*** Thisone is on me,, I will save you a few steps.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls4...ystem-diy.html

One other thing,, in the process of finding solutions for your car,,please provide us with as much info as possible so we can better help, as in year of your car. I looked your profile up. This thread SHOULD help with your 95.

makecopies

trukn1
Question for you ..

I was looking through the PS bible and wondering do you think if I replace all the hoses leading into the PS pump and the PS pump itself would it be fine. Looking online the part seems to cost around 170 with a core charge trade in. I would rather spend more money now then using more time later.

I just want a piece of mind that everything is done in that department so I can move on to the timing belt change. I don't want to revisit this a year or two later