Eds98LS

Now it's enjoyable driving the car! This has been a two weekend project thanks to the rotors bolts being about impossible to remove. Ended up buying the $70 breaker bar from Lowe's in order to get them off after my DIY breaker would not fit the angle and with the car being on jacks it was not high enough to reach them from the bottom. The pivoting head really saved the day.

After that mess it ended up being those dumb "brass" screws that hold on the rotors. Stripped as usual when trying to remove them and luckily I had that tool from Sears to back them out. Worked years ago when we had a 1996 running around in the family.

Took them to O'Reilly to have turned and the guy said they were pretty warped and so far so good! Next item is strut rod bushings, then VCG's and eventually the power steering pump.

However, this is bugging me and I wanted to see what you all thought about removing the water marks. Just buff it out?

timmy0tool

iTrader: (7)

glad the car is back on the road and enjoyable to drive again! as for the water spots, try using a clay bar to get rid of them. then use a good wax to protect the wheel afterwards. buffing may ruin the clearcoat so be careful.

dengman

water spots on the wheel?

timmy0tool

iTrader: (7)

^ that will only work with raw aluminum eh? OEM wheels have a clear coat but i suppose it's worth a shot. use in an inconspicuous place (like under the center cap) before doing the whole wheel.

dengman

some cans say neverdull same stuff..

I've used it on my TL and previous honda wheels with the "clear coating" and it worked great.

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

claybar will be safer for just water spots, using polish on clearcoated aluminum removes the clearcoat bit by bit.

Eds98LS

Thanks for the help guys! I'll start with clay and see what happens.