Goofaroo

I replaced the strut rods and lower ball joints about 15K - 20K miles ago. Since then the front end has slowly gotten sloppy feeling and the passenger side has a knock when the suspension is compressed quickly like when I hit a dip in the road. Since I have replaced the lower ball joint and strut rods I decided to order upper control arms and new struts.

This morning I finally got around to pulling the passenger side apart and removed the strut and the upper control arm. The upper control arm seems to be in perfect shape. The ball joint is still tight, the boot isn't torn, and the bushings appear to be an eyelet bushing and are as tight as the replacements I have. I can't see that they would be the culprit.

I took the spring off the strut and the original strut/shock still has good dampening and the upper mount, bump stop, and the bottom bushing still seems solid.

I have inspected the strut rod bushings, lower ball joints, tie rod ends, end links, sway bar bushings, lower control arm bushings, steering rack mounts, and subframe bolts. Everything appears tight and in good working order. To look at it, you would think that this thing would drive perfectly but it has the knock that I described earlier and feels like there is some slop when going over railroad tracks or small bumps.

Does anyone have any idea what I might be missing? I hesitate to just put it all back together because I haven't found anything wrong. Before I removed the wheel I worked it from top and bottom and side to side (with it in the air) and found no slop. Also, the wheel bearings are clearly in good working order and adjusted correctly.

Since I had the springs off and new shocks in hand I went ahead and installed the spring on the new shock. Other than that, I don't see anything that demonstrates any sign of wear.

Am I missing something that could cause my knock and sloppiness?

I know that my carrier bushings in the rear are shot and I am planning to replace them after I finish the front end. The slop in the rear could be creating a sense that the front is not tracking properly but it certainly doesn't explain the knock that I have.

Help!

RA40

iTrader: (6)

Short of taking a caliper or micrometer to measure spec, what is the oldest part in the group? Any odd tire wear?

Goofaroo

Tires are worn on the outer edge but they were like that before I installed the new strut rods and lower ball joints. They don't seem to be wearing significantly since I replaced the parts and had it aligned. It actually runs very straight down the road and the steering wheel is aligned perfectly. It gets out of sorts when I hit uneven surfaces but I am sure that some of that is from the carrier bushings in the rear. The main problem from the front is the knock that it has and some overall clunking and sloppiness (especially under braking). I was sure that when I took it apart I would find the upper control arm bushes and ball joint completely worn out. That is how bad it feels when driving it.

Shmee

iTrader: (3)

What did you do to check the condition of the ball joints and bushings?
Rocking the top/bottom and sides works to find some issues but with the suspension at droop, sometimes you have to check other ways.

If you have a decent length pry bar and a set of BIG channel lock pliers, this is what you can do if you have not already done so...

Use the pry bar and stick it between the chassis and the control arms and wiggle back and forth. If the bushings are good, you'll just see a wiggle. If the bushings are cracked, packed out or broken this will often show where the tire rocking won't.

As for the ballpoints and tierods, use the channel lock pliers to compress the joint axially. Any thing short of no compression is a worn joint. This is a great way to find slightly worn joints that the tire rock test won't pinpoint. Plus if you're working by yourself, it's hard to rock the tire and inspect the suspension at the same time...


Hopefully that will at least allow you to confirm the parts are in good order which will narrow down where to look next.

Goofaroo

I appreciate the tips but that is what I've been doing. I can't find any slop anywhere. I actually just got done putting the passenger side back together and now I'm going to tear into the driver side. I went ahead and installed the new upper control arm and strut on the passenger side so I figure I should go ahead and do the same on the other side. If it still has the same problem (which I'm guessing it will since I don't feel like I actually found the problem) I will probably think about replacing the lower ball joint again. After that, I have no ideas.

I'll report back when I get the driver side done and take it out for a test drive.

E36M3

iTrader: (1)

Subscribed.

Goofaroo

It's fixed!

I had what appeared to be good upper control arms and shocks on the car but since I had it apart I decided to go ahead and replace them. I used KYB Excel G shocks and Meyle upper control arms. I stuck it all back together and took it for a test drive and the front end is now perfect. Of course it should be considering that I have basically replaced everything except for the lower control arm bushing. There is no more knock or sloppy feeling at all. It is by far the best it has been since I've owned the car.

Now I need to replace the carrier bushings in the rear. I have one rear wheel off and have removed the brake disk and it appears that this is not going to be as easy as I thought it would. I can see the bushing and it is definitely destroyed so I'll just need to man up and get it done.

E36M3

iTrader: (1)

That's great it's fixed. I'm sure you will not think twice driving it since the crappy feel up front is gone.

Goofaroo

I'm pretty happy to finally get the front end feeling solid. Today I am going to replace the carrier bushings in the rear and I have a feeling that for the first time since I've owned this car it is going to be a pleasure to drive it.

Then I just need to replace the EGR pipe and fix a leak on the driver side valve cover and this car will be in great shape.

Lavrishevo

iTrader: (1)

Did you also replace the strut mounts? I have a slight pop or clunck when I have to brake hard and when the front suspension compresses down at the end of the stop. It's not brake related I am sure. I am going to be doing the struts all the way around soon with the KYB's as well.

SynicalVip

iTrader: (2)

I'm having the same problem with my 98 ls400. Installed Megan ez on it and I still get the clunk noise my upper control arm is hitting the inside I can see the mark it left on it when hit. What do I need to replace to fix this? Check lower ball joint it does not seem to have any tear or anything either

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

you need to cut the strut tower. your clunk is completely different since what you're hearing is the UCA hitting the strut tower.

SynicalVip

iTrader: (2)

The strut tower? So I'll have to cut where the UCA is hitting?

RA40

iTrader: (6)

Congrats on getting the clunk fixed.

I'm due as well but keep delaying this because with one off, might as well do them all. UCA, LCA, inspect the tie rod ends and lower ball joints. My strut bar bushings are probably getting close as well since those were done back around 75K miles. Just takes $

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

yeah, people use hole saws and the like. search around it's a pretty common thing to do to GS/LS.