What did you do to your LS400 today?
11-11-16, 09:38 PM
#421
11-13-16, 06:36 PM
#423
Was convenient to have the shop do the wires and plugs but $200 for wires and $125 for plugs was more than I wanted to hit the wallet for. The radiator was up there too but locally I couldn't source one in a timely manner to DIY. Amazon had the NGK wires and plugs for ~$125. They arrived today/Sunday and I did the drill. Did you guys use the wire wrap protectors? My fingers are sore from pulling them from the tight looms. 
Also discovered some hoses that will need to be replaced which I thought I'd done.
Also discovered some hoses that will need to be replaced which I thought I'd done.
11-14-16, 12:07 PM
#424
Nice job on the wires... those with 98 models and newer miss that 'wired' look that the older models have. We just add more coil packs to compensate.
Seeing all those pics of your ride.... makes we want to get a toothbrush and start scrubbing the engine bay.
Seeing all those pics of your ride.... makes we want to get a toothbrush and start scrubbing the engine bay.
11-16-16, 10:13 PM
#427
Pole Position
Getting the thread back on topic - I got both my bumper covers cleaned up and repainted, and just got them back on the car today. Then a wash and wax, and she's finally looking like she's supposed to. I've had the car for almost 3 years now and have been itching from day one to get the scuffs and scrapes removed from the bumpers. The original owner took great care of the car but she couldn't park for *****. 
11-16-16, 10:28 PM
#428
Pole Position
I'm very pleased to not have to worry about fluid leaks now. The valve cover gaskets were hard and there is no way they could stop any oil migration as evidence in the block coated in oil. This was the same story on the gear selector shaft seals. It was leaking down making it appear like the tranny pan was leaking. I have a bit of clean up though now the engine and tranny is tight.
The engine mounts made a world of difference in smoothness and shifting is nicer. It seems even quieter.
The TB service was routine, the parts were showing minimal wear and the TB showed faint signs of edge wear/cracking. Idlers, tensioner, water pump in good condition.
The radiator top and lower tanks were showing signs of stress fractures so it was on borrowed time. The tech relayed they usually last 180K. Radiator was original so it lasted 200K miles. Pretty good. Hoses were swelling.
Brakes still good but the rears will need to be replaced within 5K to avoid damaging the wear sensor. The rotors are the originals with 203K. Front pads are 40% and they have 80K miles on them. The rear pads have seen 120K. I'm gentle on braking, so pads last long on ours.
The suspension bushings were still doing well. The alignment specs held 84K miles. The left front toe had shifted a fraction but the rest were dead on. I thought the lousy roads in So. Cal would knock it way off.
He couldn't get the Continental DW so the DWS 06 were put on. They ride nice and I'll have to see how they do for an A/S type. I'm pretty mellow so I doubt I'll discover the difference between summer and A/S performance. One disappointment was the DW's didn't break 40K miles. Just short by about 500 miles. The BF Goodrichand Yokohama both easily made it past 40K miles.
The expense was well worth putting into the car. Now it deserves some long drives.
Will wash it and post pics like Billy does. 
The engine mounts made a world of difference in smoothness and shifting is nicer. It seems even quieter.
The TB service was routine, the parts were showing minimal wear and the TB showed faint signs of edge wear/cracking. Idlers, tensioner, water pump in good condition.
The radiator top and lower tanks were showing signs of stress fractures so it was on borrowed time. The tech relayed they usually last 180K. Radiator was original so it lasted 200K miles. Pretty good. Hoses were swelling.
Brakes still good but the rears will need to be replaced within 5K to avoid damaging the wear sensor. The rotors are the originals with 203K. Front pads are 40% and they have 80K miles on them. The rear pads have seen 120K. I'm gentle on braking, so pads last long on ours.
The suspension bushings were still doing well. The alignment specs held 84K miles. The left front toe had shifted a fraction but the rest were dead on. I thought the lousy roads in So. Cal would knock it way off.
He couldn't get the Continental DW so the DWS 06 were put on. They ride nice and I'll have to see how they do for an A/S type. I'm pretty mellow so I doubt I'll discover the difference between summer and A/S performance. One disappointment was the DW's didn't break 40K miles. Just short by about 500 miles. The BF Goodrichand Yokohama both easily made it past 40K miles.
The expense was well worth putting into the car. Now it deserves some long drives.
Will wash it and post pics like Billy does.
11-17-16, 05:38 AM
#429
$960... you've got to be kidding. That's a decent price on a complete timing belt change.
2-3 hours labor at the most and couple $100 in parts at the most. I had mine done in conjunction with the TB job and don't remember the total, but it wasn't that much.
And it wasn't a certified Lexus shop, so sure enough, they broke the heater valve on the rear firewall when they lifted the engine. Experience has it's advantages.
2-3 hours labor at the most and couple $100 in parts at the most. I had mine done in conjunction with the TB job and don't remember the total, but it wasn't that much.
And it wasn't a certified Lexus shop, so sure enough, they broke the heater valve on the rear firewall when they lifted the engine. Experience has it's advantages.
11-17-16, 08:34 PM
#432
Replaced the antenna assembly after discovering the drive cable for the original antenna assembly had snapped! It's the small(er) things in life...
Last edited by 96UCF20; 11-17-16 at 09:33 PM.
11-18-16, 02:06 AM
#434
11-18-16, 10:38 AM
#435
