shoob

so, i had a buddy drop by today, bearing gifts!! ill probably use this on the lower door panels where the carpet used to be, the speaker covers, that someone tore off, and the headliner- maybe.

satin print, with a brown "vale" like overlay, to give the white a bit of a creme color to match the interior. my camera cant quite capture the color.



the buttons to tuck with.



meeting with a guy tuesday to trade my 18x9.5 +15 MB Battles, for his 18x9 +10 work eurolines.

i guess the polishing of this turd is underway.......

djsurfer

iTrader: (2)

The gold patina buttons look cool, itll look interesting with that fabric choice. Good luck with the door panels, let me know how you get the bottom door panel carpet from the rear doors, I re did my doors with Gucci and re did the bottom and top portion of front doors but only the top portion of the back doors... seems like where the carpet is attached to the bottom of the rear doors are in there pretty good....

shoob

PO already took care of that for me, wasnt there when i got the car. no doors have carpet....all missing. the lower dash cover that goes over the ecu, is already off too, so that will be getting wrapped as well.does anyone know how to remove the airbag cover....safely?

i really am polishing a turd with this car. the PO also didnt remove the bolts when they rolled the front fenders. and theres some slight right rear quarter panel damage. the good thing is, there is a very good donor car at the local yard that isnt getting touched, same color scheme, same interior, etc. so far i got a working cluster, half working ecu, good driver headlight bracket, spare set of clear fogs, and a few other things. the next trip includes the prestine front fenders, and the trunk (mines slightly damaged on the rear right quarter area).

when did black interior start? also will ucf11 interior bolt up in my ucf10? theres a parts car on CL locally with a full black leather interior in very good shape for $700. the car is minus engine and trans, and has a severe rear collision. if the ucf11 interior will fit, ill probably hold off on that brown vale like overlay and just to the satin/velvet print pattern.

wheel combo is changing too. went and checked out the eurolines. kinda weak, 18x8 +22 and the clear is faded on 2 of them with some rashing. so i moved on to a set of xxr 526 18x10.5 +15 rear, and 18x9.5 +15 front with 235-40's all around. should allow me to go about an inch lower, after i pull the exhaust up some. the xxr's are currently getting the centers painted charcoal to match the lower trim pieces. waiting on 2 apexi noir mufflers to come in the mail as well.

who makes a good lip? or a decent front bumper that not to wild or drifty? the PO put this garden edging lip on.....with huge rivets, so its pull it off with gapping yellow holes, or leave it till i find something sufficient.


i plan on putting this car, the same place ive put my others:

http://s3mag.com/blog/?p=2994

shoob

also, is there a matching wood grain kit for the center panels around the vents and radio area?

djsurfer

iTrader: (2)

Thats a fresh @$$ Trueno!! Yea I like that spot.. I have a full wood grain kit its doesnt match but its kinda close... good thing the aftermarket wood doesnt touch the OEM woodgrain anywhere... or the center console because the aftermarket radio enclosure separates it so you cant really notice. But the kit comes with OEM radio woodgrain aswell

shoob

yup, i can go about 1.5" lower. also figured out today, that i need a driver side inner tie rod. just had the car aligned wednesday, so im gonna ask why wasnt i informed, and ask for another alignment, maybe it will work.

finally got my wheels on today, like i said.....centers painted to match the lower trim. also got around to removing the PO's version of a lip.

ill get better pics tomorrow in the daylight after i drop it some more.

cobalt91

Shoob, looks good. Did you get driveability issues worked out?

steve2006

I don't know if you can still get these front lips mine was on the car when I bought it.
All the UCF11 will plug and play on a UCF10.

shoob

i wish bud, but not in the states.

cobalt- no. lol. well as long as i dont go WOT its fine. its having an issue reading the afm and tps under loads where the tps is greater than 60%......make sense?

i found a guy here in the atl area that guarantees his work, or you dont pay. he rebuilds the lexus ecus. i told him ive already replaced the capacitors, and it did notheing, as well as traced all the circuits for resistance and continuity. he says "nope, you didnt fix it" so apparently he has something up his sleeve he knows that we dont. i just need to take my old ecu to him, just had alot of other things going on atm. while im there, i plan on picking his brain a bit, lol.

shoob

what do you mean by all the ucf10 will plug and play on the ucf11?


ive been eyeballing some candidates.....ill post those later, heheheheheheeee.

shoob

okay, so yesterday i finally got around to dropping it down some more........

i have a few questions. what is a way to get the front lower? meaning the upper control arem has about an inch of travel before hitting the strut tower perch housing. If I add some structural support such as a strut bar, or some structural bracing on the strut tower itself, cant i cut out a small area just above the upper ball joint to allow the upper control arm a bit of travel?

im currently sitting as low as i can safely go right now, until i reroute the inner fender harnesses, and hammer the inner fender seam weld flat to the fender arch.

also noticed i have about another 2" of lowering in the front with the lower spindle part of the front coil overs, however when i went to lower the rear i noticed the PO had the rears as low as they would go into the lower sleeve. so i did the no-no and lowered the spring perch, for now, in a few weeks ill disassemble the rears and chop about 2" off of the lower part of the threaded housing, so i cant properly lower the rear by the lower perch instead of the spring.

also have to pull my exhaust up to the body. right now i have about 1.5" of clearance between my exhaust and the pavement. it looks like i can get a good 1.5-2" of clearance by using the oem mounts and the hose clamp mounts.









did some body work to it tonight, didnt get pics before it got dark. basically the car was backed into on the rear passenger side, and the guy before me claims he had his body guy pull it out the best he could....bullisht, or his body guy was a noob. i managed to get the quarter panel pulled up to the trunk to about a 1/4" gap from the 5/8" gap that was there. also managed to get the gap in the tail light and trunk brake light to line up. before, the trunk sat 1/2" in further than the body tail light. also when they used a punch and hammer to hammer out the dents, it left the "studded condom" effect. hammered all that slightly in, so i can wipe it soon. there was also a slight pressure dent above the right rear fender well, i managed to get it out too.

still waiting on my clear bumpers. i picked up a can of night shades today too. i plan on masking off just the turn signals, and center of the trunk light, while blocking off the reverse lights, and lightly smoking the center. not completely blacked out though. after that, im painting all of the tail lights with stained glass spray paint. its a rose color, sold at micheals, covers with slear, and actuall looks good on tail lights....heres an example.

http://www.86garage.com/forums/viewt...hp?f=47&t=2135

and what those looked like before treatment:

http://www.auto-style.jp/item_img/DMX10711730001.jpg

shoob

btw, 25mm front spacers coming too.