All my crazy Lexus issues SOLVED!! (ECU-leaking capacitor)
12-11-14, 11:11 PM
#1021
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
Wild Bill has returned!
Howdy pardners!
have been preoccupied with a new beautiful woman in my life, but back in the saddle!
did y'all miss me?
have been preoccupied with a new beautiful woman in my life, but back in the saddle!
did y'all miss me?
12-12-14, 01:57 AM
#1023
Moderator
12-12-14, 02:50 AM
#1024
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
Hi ClubLexus,
Firstly, thank you for the great thread!
I've just picked up a 1990 model LS400 and am trying to put my cap order together.
The 2x differnet 10μF ones listed in the OP have a really long wait time (almost 3 months).
I want to order them all from the same place and get them ASAP.
I wasn't able to find any that had the exact same specifications. Is there a good alternative I can order or do I have to wait 3 months?
Firstly, thank you for the great thread!
I've just picked up a 1990 model LS400 and am trying to put my cap order together.
The 2x differnet 10μF ones listed in the OP have a really long wait time (almost 3 months).
I want to order them all from the same place and get them ASAP.
I wasn't able to find any that had the exact same specifications. Is there a good alternative I can order or do I have to wait 3 months?
12-12-14, 03:20 AM
#1025
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
Im having problems with 2 of my ECU’s and I know it’s the ECU’s fault. I don’t have a LS400 but I do have a 92 SC400. 1 ECU with TRAC and 1 without TRAC. First ECU is throwing a code 52 (knock sensor). And no matter what I do, I continue to get that same code. I even switch the wires to the other knock sensor and continue to get code 52. Once the engine is off, the computer resets to NO check engine light … after driving for a few miles (5-10 miles) or up to 3k RPM, the check engine light re-appears causing the timing to retard. It also drinks a lot of gas. Second ECU, has a check engine light that will flicker and or dims out slowly. It will not allow me to check for codes. It runs perfect with NO actual problems affecting the engine. My question, is it possible these parts are the same for the 92 SC400 ECU’s? They are dirt cheap so I don’t mind buying 6 of each.
Last edited by LScowboyLS; 12-12-14 at 03:41 AM.
12-12-14, 03:26 AM
#1026
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
I am almost certain your caps will be much more like the 1993-1994 list, the Euro cars were actually a year or two behind schedule, but you can use the master capacitor list (the one with the links to order) in post #1 and order a superset of caps enough to do either series, the cost of the capacitors is minor compared to shipping to Russia, but please use the sources I linked to, because counterfeit caps is a very common problem, and counterfeit will not work correctly.
12-12-14, 03:33 AM
#1027
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
12-12-14, 03:40 AM
#1028
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
12-12-14, 03:47 AM
#1029
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
3. I replaced my original ECU (89661- 50032) with another ECU (89661-50042 w/ traction) from eBay in July after replacing the electrolytic capacitor. Is this the reason they cannot find a diagnostic code and does this have to do with the ECU requiring to be flashed with my car VIN? What problem will I possibly encounter with this ECU w/ traction? I now have replaced the electrolytic capacitors on my original ECU too. Should I swap back the original ECU?
12-12-14, 04:49 AM
#1030
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
the capacitors you need will be some combination of these, so either take a look at the inside of the ECU first, or just order 3 of each to be safe!
12-12-14, 10:42 AM
#1031
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Ca
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ECU Repair
Welcome back! I missed you! 
Hey Cowboy, First off.... THANK YOU for all the great info that you have contributed on this site. I recently purchased a 1997 80k mile LS400. I want to do the ECU Repair with cleaning and new Caps. I recently did my own timing belt Kit, but don't have the skills do do the soldering this job requires.
Do you or anyone else have a recommendations for someone to do it? I am in the San Jose and Sacramento, CA areas every other week.
Thanks.
Hey Cowboy, First off.... THANK YOU for all the great info that you have contributed on this site. I recently purchased a 1997 80k mile LS400. I want to do the ECU Repair with cleaning and new Caps. I recently did my own timing belt Kit, but don't have the skills do do the soldering this job requires.
Do you or anyone else have a recommendations for someone to do it? I am in the San Jose and Sacramento, CA areas every other week.
Thanks.
Last edited by RA40; 12-12-14 at 11:41 AM.
12-13-14, 12:09 AM
#1032
Welcome back Cowboy, I just happened on this thread today and very glad I did. You & Yamae have been "priceless", but at the end of the day U Da Man! My 95 LS has been stellar (except for the high idle at startup) since I bought it 8 yrs. ago, I'm going to wait til Spring to do my caps but just want to say "thanks" for your enormous contribution to us LS- heads.
12-15-14, 02:50 AM
#1033
Driver School Candidate
Yamae-san, I have not been in here in a long time, but would love to get in contact.
Would you be able to point me in the right direction on where I can buy all of these parts in the Kanagawa area and then who can solder for me as I do not have that good of soldering skills. Thank you for your time. I am sure there are places in the states that can do this, but with my limited Japanese and my wife's limited car skills it would be best if I knew who to bring the ECU too for repair.
Honto-ni Domo Arigatou Gozama****a.
Wayne
Honto-ni Domo Arigatou Gozama****a.
Wayne
Toyota has started to use Nichicon's electrolytic capacitors that containing “quaternary ammonium salt / compounds" in the late 80s and has kept using them for a bit more than a decade. The reason why they used those capacitors was simply because the internal impedance was low enough and showed good performance in removing noise and ripples at DC lines.
A little before that many electronics industries in Japan started to use similar capacitors that were for non automobile use and faced serious leaking problems in the early 90s.
The details are written below but all in Japanese.
http://ednjapan.com/edn/articles/1208/01/news006.html
I don't have the time nor the ability to translate all the contents so I will just translate the title.
“80年代末期の“亡霊”に注意” or “Watch out for the “phantom” in the late 80s”
The “phantom” here means the electrolytic capacitor which contains infamous “quaternary ammonium salt / compounds". Judging from the title, it is dangerous to use this type of capacitor without taking any special precautionary countermeasures.
Most of the electronics companies in Japan stopped using this type of capacitor in the early 90s or mid 90s for fear of leaking problems. But many automobile industries kept using them because they needed good performance. Another reason was that they have been used in high reliability type-capacitors. Nichicon has been manufacturing special versions of this type for the automobile industries using specially coated lead wires with special sealing rubbers. One of my colleagues evaluated them and found the automobile type much better than those types designed for home appliances applications but the lifespan was not as long as those electrolytic capacitors that use regular liquids. Also the high reliability types were very expensive. I cannot show you the details of the evaluation results but what I can say is that the lifespan is longer than roughly 10 years or so but you cannot expect a lot if used for longer than that.
As I fix different ECUs as a volunteer, I came across many failed Nichicon's PF(M) type capacitors these days, some 12 years old, some 15 years old. What I can say now is that my colleague has done a good job evaluating the capacitors using an oven in the accelerated mode. In accordance with that and from my own actual experience, ECUs older than 12 years are ready to fail someday soon or later, that I can say with confidence.
Below is a failed capacitor used in a 97 Celsior. You can see how the leg has corroded and the part on the board where liquid has leaked out.
Those who want to replace Nichicon's type PF(M) capacitors to avoid future problems, be sure to use low ESR type capacitors. Never select capacitors just seeing the voltage and the capacitance. I recommend you to use Rubycon's type ZLH or Nippon Chemicon's type KZH. These do not contain infamous "quaternary ammonium compounds" but their ESR is low enough. You also have to pay good attentions against electric static discharge when doing the replacing job. A wrist strap is definitely needed to use. Without it you might damage the ECU.
Regarding capacitors Rubycon's type ZLH and Nippon Chemicon's type KZH, the availability in USA is not so good. LScowboyLS was kind enough to try to find capacitors that were OK to use and he listed up at the post #1. Those capacitors are good enough.
A little before that many electronics industries in Japan started to use similar capacitors that were for non automobile use and faced serious leaking problems in the early 90s.
The details are written below but all in Japanese. http://ednjapan.com/edn/articles/1208/01/news006.html
I don't have the time nor the ability to translate all the contents so I will just translate the title.
“80年代末期の“亡霊”に注意” or “Watch out for the “phantom” in the late 80s”
The “phantom” here means the electrolytic capacitor which contains infamous “quaternary ammonium salt / compounds". Judging from the title, it is dangerous to use this type of capacitor without taking any special precautionary countermeasures.
Most of the electronics companies in Japan stopped using this type of capacitor in the early 90s or mid 90s for fear of leaking problems. But many automobile industries kept using them because they needed good performance. Another reason was that they have been used in high reliability type-capacitors. Nichicon has been manufacturing special versions of this type for the automobile industries using specially coated lead wires with special sealing rubbers. One of my colleagues evaluated them and found the automobile type much better than those types designed for home appliances applications but the lifespan was not as long as those electrolytic capacitors that use regular liquids. Also the high reliability types were very expensive. I cannot show you the details of the evaluation results but what I can say is that the lifespan is longer than roughly 10 years or so but you cannot expect a lot if used for longer than that.
As I fix different ECUs as a volunteer, I came across many failed Nichicon's PF(M) type capacitors these days, some 12 years old, some 15 years old. What I can say now is that my colleague has done a good job evaluating the capacitors using an oven in the accelerated mode.
In accordance with that and from my own actual experience, ECUs older than 12 years are ready to fail someday soon or later, that I can say with confidence.Below is a failed capacitor used in a 97 Celsior. You can see how the leg has corroded and the part on the board where liquid has leaked out.
Those who want to replace Nichicon's type PF(M) capacitors to avoid future problems, be sure to use low ESR type capacitors. Never select capacitors just seeing the voltage and the capacitance. I recommend you to use Rubycon's type ZLH or Nippon Chemicon's type KZH. These do not contain infamous "quaternary ammonium compounds" but their ESR is low enough. You also have to pay good attentions against electric static discharge when doing the replacing job. A wrist strap is definitely needed to use. Without it you might damage the ECU.
Regarding capacitors Rubycon's type ZLH and Nippon Chemicon's type KZH, the availability in USA is not so good. LScowboyLS was kind enough to try to find capacitors that were OK to use and he listed up at the post #1. Those capacitors are good enough.
12-15-14, 06:17 AM
#1034
Moderator
Would you be able to point me in the right direction on where I can buy all of these parts in the Kanagawa area and then who can solder for me as I do not have that good of soldering skills. Thank you for your time. I am sure there are places in the states that can do this, but with my limited Japanese and my wife's limited car skills it would be best if I knew who to bring the ECU too for repair.
Honto-ni Domo Arigatou Gozama****a.
Wayne
Honto-ni Domo Arigatou Gozama****a.
Wayne
Regarding capacitors, there is a company called RS components where you can buy many different parts. Their home page is at below.
http://jp.rs-online.com/web/?
Other than that company, there are many parts shops at Akihabara Tokyo. For examples, Sengoku Densho, Akizuki Densi, Kyoritsu Ele Shop and others.
The capacitor change can be done at some PC shops. I suggest you to contact some of those at your area.
12-18-14, 12:17 AM
#1035
I just pulled the ECU out of a friend's 98 LS (200K miles). The car went from running very well to having intermittent speedo issues, starting problems where it wouldn't start at all.. would run super rough, then would run perfectly, then shifting problems. The caps appear to be in perfect shape.. at least visually.
The ECU removal was a total pain! I hope I can get it all back in there ok. Some of the clips for the glove box broke off..
I'm still waiting on the caps to arrive... hopefully by the end of the week. I had to order from digikey and mouser.. I plan on using the desoldering rope to remove a good portion of the existing solder. I've watched a lot of soldering vids on youtube so I think I can swing this just fine.. I'm thinking the hardest part will have been the removal and replacement of the ECU!
The ECU removal was a total pain! I hope I can get it all back in there ok. Some of the clips for the glove box broke off..
I'm still waiting on the caps to arrive... hopefully by the end of the week. I had to order from digikey and mouser.. I plan on using the desoldering rope to remove a good portion of the existing solder. I've watched a lot of soldering vids on youtube so I think I can swing this just fine.. I'm thinking the hardest part will have been the removal and replacement of the ECU!