RaXxaa

Hi everyone,
iam new to the forums and my first topic post, wouldnt be here if my car hadnt died on me, but any way long story short, crusing on the highway car bogged down and died, got towed to nearby apartments(i wasnt driving), i got there checked the car, wasnt starting, had an engine light on but coudnt get a code reader at that time. Car stayed 2 nights, 3rd day, the car starts and runs fine for about 30 mins, then i had to leave so the car cooled down.

Came back same night and got my car home without any engine lights, hoping the problem was gone, next day looked at it to see if it happens again, did high speed run, strained the engine but was running strong as usual.

Came back home after test run and let it run in the garage where it died.

Started the car again and coudnt get it started. Battery died. Jumped the car and started without problems and ran fine for another 30 mins on idle.

Car was at normal running temp in michigan winter.

Then died again and wont start now. Inbetween the 30 mins i was able to get 2 videos one after an other and are named pt1 and pt 2 accordingly.

Please check the video and see if u know what it wrong with it. Iam no expert so i can follow instructions just so much.

I will have to take it to the dealership but it would be best if i dont have to. As for the code, the problem comes on its own and i cant recreate the problem everywhere It comes and goes

Currently i do not know what grade gas is in there bt i think it would be 87 as i wasnt drivin it, and this problem just came outta nowhere

PT1
http://youtu.be/veavPQpt7uA

PT2
http://youtu.be/IHxE_Jw3N74

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

what's the mileage on the car/last time the timing belt was done? if there arent any monstrous vacuum leaks then im inclined to say that the timing is way off, possibly due to the belt skipping a single tooth (though usually even that causes catastrophic problems with this engine).

more likely it's a sensor issue, either the crank or one of the cam sensors has died/is dying or the harness to one of them has been damaged. a dead MAF is possible but unlikely as due to its location it doesnt really get effected by the engine warming up.

we could tell you a lot more if you got the codes it was throwing out. and you confirmed nobody put diesel or watered down gas into the tank.

RaXxaa

nobody put any diesel in it put probabaly 87 gas, also even thought this is happening in the video, i start it 5 mins later and it run fine for another 30 mins so i cant say it would be timing skipping every 30 mins and get togather in 5 mins.

I have no record of timing belt, the car is at 182,xxx miles.

I just got the car from someone i know and dont own it fully. But still i have been driving this car very easy and trying to save gas.

As for the codes, it showed up the first time it died and then i think now, but i dont have a code scanner and it would take time to get the code to appear at a autozone(nt sure if the car would act up at all) or if i would even make it to a autozone without the car dying on me :s

As you can see in video 1, the car was dead and i started it up and it fired fine and worked for 5 mins and then video 2 is after the car dying again

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

the timing belt is due every 90k miles, if yours by some miracle has lasted to 180k i wouldnt be overly surprised if it has stretched. 98-00 are interference cars, so if the timing belt snaps the engine is toast.

regardless, beg/borrow/steal an OBDII code reader and check the pending codes. it sounds like a sensor issue. double checking the battery terminals and ground wires is probably not a bad idea either.

etex

Based on a brief glimpse of the fuel gauge, it looks like you need some fuel, too.

RaXxaa

I had about half tank when the trouble happened, as per pure drifters directions, i was able to knock out the guy at autozone and steal his code reader,
I plugged in the code reader and code P0171 came up with out the engine light on, so iam expecting another code as well as soon the trouble starts( the car is turned on in my driveway)
The code p0171 is System too lean bank 1

LScowboyLS

You need to stop driving this car immediately and have the timing belt done, and not by just some local yahoo, but either the Lexus dealer or a Toyota/Lexus specialist place.

it sounds like there is a good chance that it is way overdue and I really don't think you want to buy a new engine for $7000+ the moment it breaks, which could be any minute at this point

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

check for vacuum leaks/broken vacuum hoses and nipples. may be a leak at the intake manifold gasket though slightly unlikely if you've never had the starter replaced. may also be a fuel pressure issue or as i mentioned before, a dead/dying cam or crank sensor.

AYEmike

had the same code blow up on me before with my old car, car would hesitate and sometimes die at red lights, crank sensor man ...

RaXxaa

Any possibilities of diagrams or pictures of location of the crank sensor? and is it the crank or cam sensor?

RaXxaa

So i have checked the vaccum line but they donot seem to be leaking, also i am unable to clean the MAF because of lack of tools, also as stated before the car runs even after warmup for pretty good time but then suddenly dies, so i dont think its the timing belt atm.

The car isnot throwing codes ever since i read the code first time

RA40

iTrader: (6)

I can't see what warning lights...engine sounds ok to me.
My wild shot is if the car has been running fine prior, the alt is dead and you are making by on the battery. Battery comes back just enough to get you started and runs for a few moments then goes bye-bye.

Your p0171 isn't going to kill the car just doesn't run efficiently till you replace the sensors.

Yes, def get do the TB service.

RaXxaa

Iam no expert but the car dies and i can then keep cranking for another 6 to 7 5 sec bursts and then it slowly dies down. So the battery has atleast that much charge left.

RaXxaa

Atm the battery is dead according to autozone guy. he said it needs replacing.
Though he didnt check the alternator. gonna replace battt and see will keep posted and any ideas will be appreciated

RA40

iTrader: (6)

A dead alt is: CEL, brake and battery lights. A dead alt and good battery, you can drive ~20 minutes. After that, it will crank, almost start but not run. Deep cycling the battery isn't good either, knocks lifespan off in chunks. When it is this low, put it on a battery charger and charge it slowly.