94 5 speed swap in progress
05-27-12, 03:20 PM
#63
all in all how much do you think this set u back to do this conversion?
05-27-12, 09:10 PM
#64
Well considering I stopped in the middle of the swap to overhaul the suspension and do a timing belt/water pump/tune up, it cost me a few pretty pennies.
I bought the complete swap kit from Brandon at Toyotav8.com
clutch pedal assembly
Exedy clutch and pressure ate I think part number was 16803A
custom driveshaft
w58 crossmember modified
w58
made modifications to w58 throw out bearing guide at work
SC300 ebrake lever
Custom ebrake lines
And I did all the install.
If you followed the thread you'd see in hindsight I'd get a smaller brake booster.
You would probably be better off using this list do research for local pricing, to get an idea on what it would cost you.
I bought the complete swap kit from Brandon at Toyotav8.com
clutch pedal assembly
Exedy clutch and pressure ate I think part number was 16803A
custom driveshaft
w58 crossmember modified
w58
made modifications to w58 throw out bearing guide at work
SC300 ebrake lever
Custom ebrake lines
And I did all the install.
If you followed the thread you'd see in hindsight I'd get a smaller brake booster.
You would probably be better off using this list do research for local pricing, to get an idea on what it would cost you.
05-28-12, 03:00 AM
#66
From Exedy hoke page I selected racing clutches, 93 Toyota Celica, part number 16803A.
I was told the disc won't work with the transmission. Both the disc and input shaft have a 21 spline count and matching diameters. If it really isn't supposed to work then my W58 had a modified input shaft or I recieved the wrong disc. Both of which I think are highly unlikely.
I was told the disc won't work with the transmission. Both the disc and input shaft have a 21 spline count and matching diameters. If it really isn't supposed to work then my W58 had a modified input shaft or I recieved the wrong disc. Both of which I think are highly unlikely.
10-13-12, 08:49 PM
#69
FOR ANYONE THINKING ABOUT THIS SWAP, I RECOMMEND A 3/4" BORE CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER AS OPPOSED TO THE SC300 5/8" BORE CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER.
Quick update - I finally got a good driveshaft. I got a one piece from the driveshaft shop. Due to the length, they highly recommended a 3.5" diameter aluminum shaft. I had to get the modified shift linkage modified again, for driveshaft clearance. Now the transmission tunnel above the shift linkage needs a little massaging for clearance.
I'm having problems with the clutch disengaging. I was hoping there was some extremely stubborn air trapped in the hydraulic line. But all the bleeding, and driving around and bleeding again, and getting no air coming out, I don't think there's any left in the line. I'll try one more time after work next week. If no air comes out, I'm going to order a 3/4" bore clutch master cylinder.
There's still a real bad exhaust leak between the left catalytic converter flange and exhaust pipe flange. It makes my car sound like complete and total crap. After I get these issues taken care of, I'll try and film an actual decent driving video.
Quick update - I finally got a good driveshaft. I got a one piece from the driveshaft shop. Due to the length, they highly recommended a 3.5" diameter aluminum shaft. I had to get the modified shift linkage modified again, for driveshaft clearance. Now the transmission tunnel above the shift linkage needs a little massaging for clearance.
I'm having problems with the clutch disengaging. I was hoping there was some extremely stubborn air trapped in the hydraulic line. But all the bleeding, and driving around and bleeding again, and getting no air coming out, I don't think there's any left in the line. I'll try one more time after work next week. If no air comes out, I'm going to order a 3/4" bore clutch master cylinder.
There's still a real bad exhaust leak between the left catalytic converter flange and exhaust pipe flange. It makes my car sound like complete and total crap. After I get these issues taken care of, I'll try and film an actual decent driving video.
10-27-12, 01:23 PM
#71
I finally got that new clutch master cylinder in. I think it's a Tilton 75 series, it has a 3/4" bore. Well I got the clutch master cylinder, and adapter bracket, from Twins Turbo. The piece is solid. I had to do a little bit of grinding to get this thing in.
A buddy is going to stop by later, and give me a hand bleeding it. If this works out, I just need to fix the speedo, and this swap will be about done.
A buddy is going to stop by later, and give me a hand bleeding it. If this works out, I just need to fix the speedo, and this swap will be about done.
10-27-12, 09:25 PM
#73
Sure, I'll try. I've probably said it a million and a half times, the hardest part was the clutch pedal install. Aside from that, the biggest headache was the shift linkage extension.
Mine came with TRAC, so I deleted ABS and TRAC to make room for the clutch master cylinder. I forget the name of the parts. There were two pieces by the intake that needed to be removed, and two pieces by the brake master cylinder that needed to be removed. Used a T fitting to connect one line off the bypass and proportioning valve to the front brake lines, and another T fitting to connect the other bypass and proportioning valve line to the rear brake lines. Disconnected all ABS and TRAC relays. Replaced the TRAC throttle body with a non TRAC throttle body. Disconnected the ABS and TRAC computers. The brake master cylinder reservoir has two nipples on it, connecting it to TRAC components. I looped them back to each other.
The under dash fuse box, a computer (I think something with power door locks) and a few other small electrical items under the fuse box had to be relocated. I removed the pedal parking brake assembly, and installed a hand brake. Made some quick rough measurements, drilled some holes, and installed a clutch pedal. I used a SC300 clutch pedal. When I get another LS400 and do this again, I'll be using a smaller brake booster, and probably a brake pedal off a car that came with manual transmission. I'd like this more if I positioned the clutch pedal further to the right. I had to do more cutting than I wanted to make room for the clutch master cylinder. I originally used a SC300 clutch master cylinder, but then replaced it with (I think) a Tilton 75 series clutch master cylinder. The SC300 unit has a 5/8" bore while the Tilton unit has a 3/4" bore. I got the master cylinder and adapter bracket that Twins Turbo makes for mk4 supras running a twin disc clutch setup. I recently greased all moving parts of the clutch pedal, and now it operates without squeaking.
Remove the shfiter and shifter mounting bracket. From here on, it's about the same as replacing a transmission. Remove exhaust, cats, and drain transmission fluid. Oh and if you're lucky enough to still have the engine under cover, remove that. I don't remember the procedure off the top of my head. I think it goes remove bellhousing inspection plate, and remove the drive plate to torque converter bolts. Remove the two braces below the driveshaft. Remove driveshaft. support transmission and remove transmission crossmember. Slightly lower transmission and remove bellhousing to engine bolts. Remove transmission. And I think remove torque converter with transmission. I forget what I did here to not make a mess. Remove drive plate.
I went with a W58 out of a 93 SC300. I bought the complete adapter kit from http://www.1uzfeswapkit.com/ and an exedy stage 1 clutch and pressure plate for a 3S-GTE. I removed the front bearing retainer from the W58 and cut off the throw out bearing guide with a port a band saw, counter sunk all the holes, and replaced all the bolts with flat head bolts. This was needed to make room for the T56 hydraulic throw out bearing adapter, and I think one or two bolts wouldn't clear the adapter plate or the automatic transmisison's bellhousing. I drilled two holes in the automatic transmission bellhousing, and ran the hydraulic lines through the holes.
Now learn from my mistake. Bench bleed the master cylinder and throw out bearing before installing. It was real stupid of me to not do so. And if you make this mistake, it will be real stupid of you, too.
The shift linkage needs to be extended about 7". I think I got mine extended 6 1/2", and had to do a little cutting in the hole the shifter goes through on the transmission tunnel. You might have clearance issues between the shifter in second, fourth, and reverse, and the center console, if you get the linkage extended enough for the shifter to perfectly line up with the hole. Whoever does this fabrication, make sure they know the angle of the bottom of the shift linkage cover and the angle of the shift lever are not the same angle. If you or the person doing your fabrication doesn't take this into account, you might run into issues changing gears.
I went with a 3.5" diameter driveshaft, so the linkage needed to get modified again to clear the driveshaft. He made a 1" spacer between the extension housing and the shift linkage cover. I think he cut the shift lever just after where it slides on to the main shift control rod, and raised it an inch there, just before it changes angles. It's kind of annoying to put back together while the transmission is installed. The spacer and linkage cover can't go on together at the same time. The transmission tunnel needs some "massaging" for clearance.
I had some issues with the shfiter clearing, either with the radio or console, I forget which. If you look at the bottom of the shfiter, there's two bends, and about an inch between the bends. I had him cut out that inch, and weld it back together at the bends, keeping the same angle. And installed the shifter backwards. It's just fine now.
With some modification, the SC300 transmission crossmember works. Some of the crossmember to chassis holes need to be hogged out. And new crossmember to transmission mount holes need to be drilles, to position the mount a little bit forward.
Now would be a good time to replace the rear main seal, and reseal the transmission. Install the flywheel. The driveplate to crankshaft bolts work just fine. Install the clutch disc and pressure plate. Bench the transmission, install the bellhousing to engine bolts, and install transmission crossmember.
Jumper terminals 5 and 6 on the park/neutral position switch, and it will start. Wire terminals 4 and 8 on the park/neutral position switch to the tail light switch of the transmission, and the tail lights will work. The vehicle speed sensor plug plugs right in to the connector on the W58 and the speedo works. Jumper the terminals on the overdrive off connector, and the overdrive off light stays on, as opposed to blinking. I really don't care enough to fix that at the moment. It's another problem for another day.
Install driveshaflt. You're pretty much on your own for a custom driveshaft. If you want a one piece aluminum shaft with 3.5" diameter, call driveshaft shop. They made mine. Just make sure you tell them 27 times which transmission you're using, so you get the right yoke the first time.
Fill transmission with fluid. Reinstall the driveshaft braces. If you went with a larger diameter driveshaft, they'll need to be modified. Reinstall the cats and exhaust.
That should just about cover it.
My car needs an alignment really bad, and stickers. Until I get that taken care of, I'm only doing very limited night driving. I'll take a video after getting it legal.
Mine came with TRAC, so I deleted ABS and TRAC to make room for the clutch master cylinder. I forget the name of the parts. There were two pieces by the intake that needed to be removed, and two pieces by the brake master cylinder that needed to be removed. Used a T fitting to connect one line off the bypass and proportioning valve to the front brake lines, and another T fitting to connect the other bypass and proportioning valve line to the rear brake lines. Disconnected all ABS and TRAC relays. Replaced the TRAC throttle body with a non TRAC throttle body. Disconnected the ABS and TRAC computers. The brake master cylinder reservoir has two nipples on it, connecting it to TRAC components. I looped them back to each other.
The under dash fuse box, a computer (I think something with power door locks) and a few other small electrical items under the fuse box had to be relocated. I removed the pedal parking brake assembly, and installed a hand brake. Made some quick rough measurements, drilled some holes, and installed a clutch pedal. I used a SC300 clutch pedal. When I get another LS400 and do this again, I'll be using a smaller brake booster, and probably a brake pedal off a car that came with manual transmission. I'd like this more if I positioned the clutch pedal further to the right. I had to do more cutting than I wanted to make room for the clutch master cylinder. I originally used a SC300 clutch master cylinder, but then replaced it with (I think) a Tilton 75 series clutch master cylinder. The SC300 unit has a 5/8" bore while the Tilton unit has a 3/4" bore. I got the master cylinder and adapter bracket that Twins Turbo makes for mk4 supras running a twin disc clutch setup. I recently greased all moving parts of the clutch pedal, and now it operates without squeaking.
Remove the shfiter and shifter mounting bracket. From here on, it's about the same as replacing a transmission. Remove exhaust, cats, and drain transmission fluid. Oh and if you're lucky enough to still have the engine under cover, remove that. I don't remember the procedure off the top of my head. I think it goes remove bellhousing inspection plate, and remove the drive plate to torque converter bolts. Remove the two braces below the driveshaft. Remove driveshaft. support transmission and remove transmission crossmember. Slightly lower transmission and remove bellhousing to engine bolts. Remove transmission. And I think remove torque converter with transmission. I forget what I did here to not make a mess. Remove drive plate.
I went with a W58 out of a 93 SC300. I bought the complete adapter kit from http://www.1uzfeswapkit.com/ and an exedy stage 1 clutch and pressure plate for a 3S-GTE. I removed the front bearing retainer from the W58 and cut off the throw out bearing guide with a port a band saw, counter sunk all the holes, and replaced all the bolts with flat head bolts. This was needed to make room for the T56 hydraulic throw out bearing adapter, and I think one or two bolts wouldn't clear the adapter plate or the automatic transmisison's bellhousing. I drilled two holes in the automatic transmission bellhousing, and ran the hydraulic lines through the holes.
Now learn from my mistake. Bench bleed the master cylinder and throw out bearing before installing. It was real stupid of me to not do so. And if you make this mistake, it will be real stupid of you, too.
The shift linkage needs to be extended about 7". I think I got mine extended 6 1/2", and had to do a little cutting in the hole the shifter goes through on the transmission tunnel. You might have clearance issues between the shifter in second, fourth, and reverse, and the center console, if you get the linkage extended enough for the shifter to perfectly line up with the hole. Whoever does this fabrication, make sure they know the angle of the bottom of the shift linkage cover and the angle of the shift lever are not the same angle. If you or the person doing your fabrication doesn't take this into account, you might run into issues changing gears.
I went with a 3.5" diameter driveshaft, so the linkage needed to get modified again to clear the driveshaft. He made a 1" spacer between the extension housing and the shift linkage cover. I think he cut the shift lever just after where it slides on to the main shift control rod, and raised it an inch there, just before it changes angles. It's kind of annoying to put back together while the transmission is installed. The spacer and linkage cover can't go on together at the same time. The transmission tunnel needs some "massaging" for clearance.
I had some issues with the shfiter clearing, either with the radio or console, I forget which. If you look at the bottom of the shfiter, there's two bends, and about an inch between the bends. I had him cut out that inch, and weld it back together at the bends, keeping the same angle. And installed the shifter backwards. It's just fine now.
With some modification, the SC300 transmission crossmember works. Some of the crossmember to chassis holes need to be hogged out. And new crossmember to transmission mount holes need to be drilles, to position the mount a little bit forward.
Now would be a good time to replace the rear main seal, and reseal the transmission. Install the flywheel. The driveplate to crankshaft bolts work just fine. Install the clutch disc and pressure plate. Bench the transmission, install the bellhousing to engine bolts, and install transmission crossmember.
Jumper terminals 5 and 6 on the park/neutral position switch, and it will start. Wire terminals 4 and 8 on the park/neutral position switch to the tail light switch of the transmission, and the tail lights will work. The vehicle speed sensor plug plugs right in to the connector on the W58 and the speedo works. Jumper the terminals on the overdrive off connector, and the overdrive off light stays on, as opposed to blinking. I really don't care enough to fix that at the moment. It's another problem for another day.
Install driveshaflt. You're pretty much on your own for a custom driveshaft. If you want a one piece aluminum shaft with 3.5" diameter, call driveshaft shop. They made mine. Just make sure you tell them 27 times which transmission you're using, so you get the right yoke the first time.
Fill transmission with fluid. Reinstall the driveshaft braces. If you went with a larger diameter driveshaft, they'll need to be modified. Reinstall the cats and exhaust.
That should just about cover it.
My car needs an alignment really bad, and stickers. Until I get that taken care of, I'm only doing very limited night driving. I'll take a video after getting it legal.
