Removing Axle Half-shaft?
10-11-11, 06:48 PM
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Removing Axle Half-shaft?
my pass rear axel is clicking, i seen its not a solid rear axel like most rear wheel drives, and just wondering if its just like front wheel drives, " take off brakes, remove rotors, disconect strut and it should just pop out right?
10-12-11, 12:10 PM
#2
I'm not %100 so I don't wanna give u the wrong answer. Let us know.
10-12-11, 05:42 PM
#3
Pole Position
It is alot easier then a front wheel drive axle. This rear axle is actually called the "driveshaft". Not sure what year yours is but I'm looking in my 93 manual. No need to remove brakes, rotor and strut.
It says to;
Remove cotter pin, lock cap, and nut. (center of rotor)
From exhaust pipe, remove O-rings (rubber hangers) and suspend tail pipe with wire.
(With Air suspension) Remove the two bolts and disconnect height sensor.
REMOVE DRIVESHAFT
Place matchmarks on driveshaft and side gear shaft. (DON'T use a punch, use paint or chalk)
Remove the six hexagon bolts and two washers (inboard side of driveshaft) while depressing brake pedal
Hold the inboard joint side of the driveshaft so that the outboard joint side does not bend too much.
Using a plastic-faced hammer, lightly tap the end of the driveshaft, disengage the axle hub and remove the driveshaft.
INSTALL IS REVERSE
Torque for the six hexagon bolts is 61 ft. lbs.
Torque for the bearing lock nut (inside rotor) is 253 ft. lbs. tighten while depressing brake pedal.
Install new cotter pin.
It says to;
Remove cotter pin, lock cap, and nut. (center of rotor)
From exhaust pipe, remove O-rings (rubber hangers) and suspend tail pipe with wire.
(With Air suspension) Remove the two bolts and disconnect height sensor.
REMOVE DRIVESHAFT
Place matchmarks on driveshaft and side gear shaft. (DON'T use a punch, use paint or chalk)
Remove the six hexagon bolts and two washers (inboard side of driveshaft) while depressing brake pedal
Hold the inboard joint side of the driveshaft so that the outboard joint side does not bend too much.
Using a plastic-faced hammer, lightly tap the end of the driveshaft, disengage the axle hub and remove the driveshaft.
INSTALL IS REVERSE
Torque for the six hexagon bolts is 61 ft. lbs.
Torque for the bearing lock nut (inside rotor) is 253 ft. lbs. tighten while depressing brake pedal.
Install new cotter pin.
10-15-11, 04:39 AM
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thanks for the info deanshark and rome99ls, much needed advice on the six hexbolts conecting the shaft to the carrige. but puredrifter if not the cv joints then what do you think it is, cause i pulled the drum off and doesnt look like anything bad, all even wear and parking brake works so good i can pull 180s almost better than hand brakes lol
10-15-11, 06:26 AM
#6
rwd CV joints don't exhibit the same symptoms as fwd cars since the rear axles don't go through nearly the same range of motion in terms of a turning force.
generally you won't get clicking when turning, only when accelerating or braking (which the axles goes through its vertical plane of motion). its more likely to be a wheel bearing or drivetrain/diff issue than the CV axles joints. taking the rear axles off isn't horribly difficult so you could take the axle in question off and check it out for an overly loose joint.
generally you won't get clicking when turning, only when accelerating or braking (which the axles goes through its vertical plane of motion). its more likely to be a wheel bearing or drivetrain/diff issue than the CV axles joints. taking the rear axles off isn't horribly difficult so you could take the axle in question off and check it out for an overly loose joint.
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